60w Led Lights As Supplimenta Lighting

I've been using a 1000w LED grow lights over a 2 x 3" scrog grow. Now I'm going to try supplemental lighting around the 4 corners of the room with 60w LED corn bulbs. Have I wasted my money Or will it add some bulk to the periphery of my grows?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I manage OK with the 1000w. But the buds are not as full around the edges.

When you say 1000w, do you mean an Amazon led fixture that is really 200w or so?

If so, the led bulbs are probably better than the main light.

This is my veg set up Mars II with 600 watt CFL I just switched to bloom and added 6 PAR 38 LEDs and 400 watt CFL for bloom

jumpincaz said:

I've been using a 1000w LED grow lights over a 2 x 3" scrog grow. Now I'm going to try supplemental lighting around the 4 corners of the room with 60w LED corn bulbs. Have I wasted my money Or will it add some bulk to the periphery of my grows?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I manage OK with the 1000w. But the buds are not as full around the edges.

Click to expand...

I read the more light the tighter your buds will be this is my 1st grow so will see if that holds true

the 15W/ "100W replacements" at home depot/walmart are pretty money. well over 120lm/W of forward facing diodes (when you pop the cover off) at $5 each

you'll find all kinds of uses for these in veg and cloning

perfect to light up the corner of a dark tent even in flower

cheap and respectable efficiency. light years better/cheaper/less toxic than the CFL screw ins

Dabber68 said:

I read the more light the tighter your buds will be this is my 1st grow so will see if that holds true

Click to expand...

genetics first, light quality/quantity second

CobKits said:

genetics first, light quality/quantity second

Click to expand...

genetics this one has she's 26 days old and growing she's the best of 6

CobKits said:

the 15W/ "100W replacements" at home depot/walmart are pretty money. well over 120lm/W of forward facing diodes (when you pop the cover off) at $5 each

you'll find all kinds of uses for these in veg and cloning

perfect to light up the corner of a dark tent even in flower

cheap and respectable efficiency. light years better/cheaper/less toxic than the CFL screw ins

Click to expand...

Looking into building my own lights soon any advice

For my veg and clone tents I've given up CFLs long ago, and swapped to cheap E27 cobs mixed with blurples.
I've tried about a dozen types of E27 socket leds of ebay, these are my two favs.
They advertise 15w cobs and 27w blurples, but both pull 4.8w at the wall. Yet they are pretty epic.

Best ebay cheap e27 cobs:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dimmable-E27-E14-GU10-MR16-LED-Spot-Light-Bulbs-15W-COB-Natural-Cool-Warm-White/262353454681?hash=item3d157c0659:m:mQTAduML5gOqY0yHw0Kz3RQ

Best ebay cheap e27 blurples:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-28W-E27-LED-Plant-Grow-Light-Efficient-Hydroponic-Full-Spectrum-Growing-Lamp/253052721825?epid=2085548179&hash=item3aeb1e1aa1:g:CvAAAOSwlfxXGgR9

Better e27 splitters than you are using, allowing directionality:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-4-5-in-1-E27-Adjustable-Base-Light-Lamp-Bulb-Socket-Splitter-Adapter-Holder/182401152734?hash=item2a77f4b6de:m:m18eFJnvuHcnzoMA5T3rjCg

Why do you have a 6 to 4 inch reducer on your intake fan?

GreenLogician said:

For my veg and clone tents I've given up CFLs long ago, and swapped to cheap E27 cobs mixed with blurples.
I've tried about a dozen types of E27 socket leds of ebay, these are my two favs.
They advertise 15w cobs and 27w blurples, but both pull 4.8w at the wall. Yet they are pretty epic.

Best ebay cheap e27 cobs:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dimmable-E27-E14-GU10-MR16-LED-Spot-Light-Bulbs-15W-COB-Natural-Cool-Warm-White/262353454681?hash=item3d157c0659:m:mQTAduML5gOqY0yHw0Kz3RQ

Best ebay cheap e27 blurples:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-28W-E27-LED-Plant-Grow-Light-Efficient-Hydroponic-Full-Spectrum-Growing-Lamp/253052721825?epid=2085548179&hash=item3aeb1e1aa1:g:CvAAAOSwlfxXGgR9

Better e27 splitters than you are using, allowing directionality:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-4-5-in-1-E27-Adjustable-Base-Light-Lamp-Bulb-Socket-Splitter-Adapter-Holder/182401152734?hash=item2a77f4b6de:m:m18eFJnvuHcnzoMA5T3rjCg

Click to expand...

YES!

those are dope

i will order some and find out what the relative efficiency is between the A19 discreet diode bulbs and the basic citi 1212 cobs

Hey guys, anyone have experience w Sunthin brand LED's?? I'm 1 week into flower and want to make sure I'm in the right wavelength. I have 6 TIWIN (11w:1100lm:2700k), 2 Phillips (13.5w:1500lm:5000k), and 2 Sunthin (40w:4000lm:2700k), but the different brands look like they have different color temps even though they're supposed to be the same???

**Also anybody notice anything? Any deficiencies? Any and all advice welcome. Trellis net to high? To low? What week do these look like? I think it might be an auto flower because she was pretty pistilly on 24/7 until I finally put her on 12/12 a week ago, although she seemed like she wanted to go into bloom for at least a month already. Does she look more mature than 1wk? Did I mess up putting her in flower to late?



I'm not using a real nute, I have been cheese grating some tomato fertilizer spikes and adding that powder to her water along with Epsom salt and calcium pills.

Yepp, looks like end of week 2.
To me she's lookin' healthy, trellis is okay.
She will grow a bit further and end up standing 8-12 "above the trellis.
I'would remove the last two diffusers from the 5000°k bulbs but apart from this your setup seems to work.
Thumbs up!

BTW,
Some varieties, when grown up, showing pre-flowers, even in veg light regimes. That does not mean inevitably that it is an automatic.

Randomblame said:

Yepp, looks like end of week 2.
To me she's lookin' healthy, trellis is okay.
She will grow a bit further and end up standing 8-12 "above the trellis.
I'would remove the last two diffusers from the 5000°k bulbs but apart from this your setup seems to work.
Thumbs up!

BTW,
Some varieties, when grown up, showing pre-flowers, even in veg light regimes. That does not mean inevitably that it is an automatic.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply man, I was keeping the globes on those 2 to help disperse the 5000k light more evenly, but what the hell I'll cut em off haha, been debating that one for a while. You think she needs any extra K? Was gonna try to add a lil potash to the water to.. just got my soil pH meter, was a cheapy, but says my soil is around 7.5. Recommend adding lemon juice to water to try to help that out??

GreenLogician said:

For my veg and clone tents I've given up CFLs long ago, and swapped to cheap E27 cobs mixed with blurples.
I've tried about a dozen types of E27 socket leds of ebay, these are my two favs.
They advertise 15w cobs and 27w blurples, but both pull 4.8w at the wall. Yet they are pretty epic.

Best ebay cheap e27 cobs:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dimmable-E27-E14-GU10-MR16-LED-Spot-Light-Bulbs-15W-COB-Natural-Cool-Warm-White/262353454681?hash=item3d157c0659:m:mQTAduML5gOqY0yHw0Kz3RQ

Best ebay cheap e27 blurples:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-28W-E27-LED-Plant-Grow-Light-Efficient-Hydroponic-Full-Spectrum-Growing-Lamp/253052721825?epid=2085548179&hash=item3aeb1e1aa1:g:CvAAAOSwlfxXGgR9

Better e27 splitters than you are using, allowing directionality:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-4-5-in-1-E27-Adjustable-Base-Light-Lamp-Bulb-Socket-Splitter-Adapter-Holder/182401152734?hash=item2a77f4b6de:m:m18eFJnvuHcnzoMA5T3rjCg

Click to expand...

CobKits said:

YES!

those are dope

i will order some and find out what the relative efficiency is between the A19 discreet diode bulbs and the basic citi 1212 cobs

Click to expand...

They look cool, but if the specs are correct... 15w and 900 lumens would make them pretty terrible.

agreed that spec is crappy but if theres one thing weve learned is that many of those ebay sellers have no concept of spec and actual performance is unrelated

so in this case we may be surprised

JSheeze said:

Thanks for the reply man, I was keeping the globes on those 2 to help disperse the 5000k light more evenly, but what the hell I'll cut em off haha, been debating that one for a while. You think she needs any extra K? Was gonna try to add a lil potash to the water to.. just got my soil pH meter, was a cheapy, but says my soil is around 7.5. Recommend adding lemon juice to water to try to help that out??

Click to expand...

These diodes have 120°, there is no need for a diffuser for better coverage.
And for your PH, better you take vinegar, citric acid (powder) or phosphor acid, which is the best for flowering.
And maybe add a compost tea or some useful bactria and mycos.
Tomato fertilizers usually have a high dosage of K, I don't think there need some extra K. Whats the NPK on yours? If it's lower than P you can add it, if it's already higher, I would not.
Did you flush her when you switched to flower circle? And can you check ph and ppm of the outcoming drain when watering with plain water?

Randomblame said:

These diodes have 120°, there is no need for a diffuser for better coverage.
And for you PH, better you take vinegar, citric acid (powder) or phosphor acid, which is the best for flowering.
And maybe add a compost tea or some useful bactria and mycos.
Tomato fertilizers usually have a high dosage of K, I don't think there need some extra K. Whats the NPK on yours? If it's lower than P you can add it, if it's already higher, I would not.
Did you flush her when you switched to flower circle? And can you check ph and ppm of the outcoming drain when watering with plain water?

Click to expand...

I don't have a ppm meter and honestly I think the the soil container has no holes, I've been wondering if I should drill some in the bottom. I checked the moistness of the soil with the pH meter (has a moisture setting) and after I just watered, it seems that the water stays suspended in like a 5in tall disk starting at about 2" from the top of the soil, and then drying out again as I approach the bottom, approx 10" below the concentrated disk. I have a cookie sheet under the metal can to catch any drainage, but I honestly have never seen any and I water using an empty vodka bottle (750mL, about half 1-2x a day).

The tomato spikes N-P-K is 6-18-6, so I think I will add a lil K.

I did not flush. I got the pots from a neighbor that was using for flowers, I don't know the soil ingredients that he used so I'm just kinda flying by the seat of my pants. I can't tell if they look like they have too much N (from soil ingredients) but to me they look really green almost darker green on some of the outer parts of the leaves??? Someone said that can be the lighting? He said he tuned his LED's spectrum to see more dark green/black leaves??

Would you recommend flushing? Will I need a bigger drainage tray? I've been wanting to stop with the cheese grating tomato spikes (was just cheap and was in a pinch) and switch to some 2-7-7 cactus/succulent flowering food. Would you recommend a flush before switching? Recommend switching? It's just the mystery soil, eyeballed spike cheese grater mix, eyeballed Epsom salt mix, seems pretty variable and want to switch to something that's professionally ratioed to keep some guess work out? Idk lol thanks for the input @Randomblame seems like your ontop of your shit, and I like to learn

** Also, at 120°, should I take all the globes completely off? Not even leave a lil side wall?

Roots also needs air and waterlogging causes root rot. For this reason a good drainage is important, as well as a little drain at each watering. This ensures that no salts will build up that can cause burnings to the roots.

If you would have too much N in your soil mix you would see so called "clawing" on the leafes and a really dark blueish green. Cloudy, bright parts between the leaf veins tend to indicate a magnesium deficiency or light stress and since you regularly use epsom salt, I think it is light stress.
Increase the distance by 4inch and it should not occur on the newer leaves. Already damaged leaves will not recover in this case. If they have a mag. deficit, it may disappear if it's not too far advanced.

Instead of cactus nutrients you should use a bio-mineral all-in-one fertilizer based on molasses and rock dust.
These fertilizers liven up the substrate, provide much humus formation and promote the formation of useful soil flora. You could use the cactus fertilizer as a kind of PK booster.
You can also use worm castings or compost as top-feeding and just put a 1/2-1" thick layer on the substrate surface.
Compost tea is also a really good fertilizer that will not burn your plants.

Without holes in your pots there is no way to flush them. I recommend to flush when you start to change your nutrient regime to flower circle. This rinses out excess nutrients to better absorb the new nutrients and prevents the above described salting of the substrate.

LED tuning for more darker green/black is absolutely nonsense. Better forget advice from from this guy!
Healthy plants are dark green, if not, they have a problem that you need to solve.
-
BTW, cheap PPM and PH-meters are available on e3ay for only ~5$(ppm) and 8$(ph). Your "earth checker" seems to be one of the cheap greenish all-in-one units with 2 long spikes, yes? If so, it's not as precise as you think. Better buy real PH/PPM meters and do not waste your money for such toys.

Randomblame said:

Roots also needs air and waterlogging causes root rot. For this reason a good drainage is important, as well as a little drain at each watering. This ensures that no salts will build up that can cause burnings to the roots.

If you would have too much N in your soil mix you would see so called "clawing" on the leafes and a really dark blueish green. Cloudy, bright parts between the leaf veins tend to indicate a magnesium deficiency or light stress and since you regularly use epsom salt, I think it is light stress.
Increase the distance by 4inch and it should not occur on the newer leaves. Already damaged leaves will not recover in this case. If they have a mag. deficit, it may disappear if it's not too far advanced.

Instead of cactus nutrients you should use a bio-mineral all-in-one fertilizer based on molasses and rock dust.
These fertilizers liven up the substrate, provide much humus formation and promote the formation of useful soil flora. You could use the cactus fertilizer as a kind of PK booster.
You can also use worm castings or compost as top-feeding and just put a 1/2-1" thick layer on the substrate surface.
Compost tea is also a really good fertilizer that will not burn your plants.

Without holes in your pots there is no way to flush them. I recommend to flush when you start to change your nutrient regime to flower circle. This rinses out excess nutrients to better absorb the new nutrients and prevents the above described salting of the substrate.

LED tuning for more darker green/black is absolutely nonsense. Better forget advice from from this guy!
Healthy plants are dark green, if not, they have a problem that you need to solve.

Click to expand...

Nice, thanks man
I'm gonna drill some holes, flush, and then start adding molasses and vinegar to her water along with the Epsom and calcium pills I'm already giving. One q on that though, if I'm adding vinegar to the water, will that react with the calcium pills (CaCO3) and neutralize the acid? If I add more acid, making the CaCO3 the limiting reactant, will the resultant compounds still be the type of Ca that in trying to give her? Will it be pointless to adjust pH while trying to add calcium by way of CaCO3 pills at the same time?

I don't want to re-pot her or disturb her roots so I'll forgo the rock dust this time??? Or you recommend re-potting into new rock dust mixed soil?

Does a thin (1/2-1") tea compost layer on top of soil help lower pH?