500€ budget for new light in 4x4 tent

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Any better option? @wietefras which H strips are you talking about? Are little better than those Q's?
I was talking about the new H Influx strips: https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/led-modules/industrial-light-module/h-influx/

Not sure if they are really "better" since it's probably the same LM301B leds on both. Still the H Influx series has 3 options of diode density in a 56cm strip size (around 4k lumen, 6k lumen or 8k lumen):
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/optoelectronics/led-lighting-cobs-engines-modules/111?k=&pkeyword=&pv1614=74&pv46=37435&pv46=48066&sf=0&FV=ffecf8a8&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

Plus I think they might give more "bang for the buck" in $ per lumen than the Q series.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Not gonna cost much more to reach 1000, or just lower the strips...
You can't just lower lights to increase light intensity. All that does is create a hot spot with higher intensity and create darker areas by reducing the light somewhere else at the same amount you gained in the hot spot. Only benefit of lowering a fixture is lower wall losses. Which will gain you some light, but at the expense of poorer uniformity. The myth that you can simply create more light with moving the fixture down is just that, a myth. You can hang it higher and waste light on the walls for reduced intensity, but the other way does not work.

Besides, how is CO2 even going to work in a tent? You just suck it right out when the sucker replaces the whole volume of the grow tent several times per minute. You'd need to pump in a ton of gas to keep levels even slightly elevated.
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Can anyone check if I can wire 40 strips on 2x HLG-240H-C1050A? Number on Digikey is: SI-B8V101560US.
Right now I have 20x 112cm strips in basket, but I find out that if I buy 40x 56cm strips, they're 60 dollars cheaper.
Sorry, forgot to answer.

:edit: oh wait never mind, you would wire 2 of them in parallel. Yes then it would work.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I wanted buy 20x 112cm single row Q strips and 2x 250W MW drivers, but Digikey did something wrong and now I must make a new order.
Meantime, some member here says words that I can't overlook.

So I open this thread once for final. I plan to use SCROG net in 4x4 tent, and I want 25-30cm hard colas above net. I prepared everything to buy tomorrow -->20x LT-QB22A strips on 2x MW HLG-240H-C1050A drivers. So 112cm strips 5-6cm apart across whole 120x120cm tent. Better can't go, I think. 183 lm/W in 3000K 80 CRI strips, 480-500W.
If I hang them 10-15 cm above colas, do you think I will get 30cm colas which are hard as with COBs? Because right now I use Citizen 1212 gen5 COBs, driven at 35W each, and I have great results and 30cm hard colas above net. And they're not even 155 lm/W.

I am looking for best light I can get for 500€. I also have one 250W MW driver at home and I can reuse it. Price with everything (light + heatsinks + drivers) should be around 500€.
Amare Technologies has a EU distributor. Well worth investigating
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Okay, strips are in the air now!!

So, I need proper heatsinks... I run Samsung calculator and at 35°C I have 183.1 lm/W and at 50°C I have 182.7 lm/W. So only 0.4°C difference!! I lost only 400 lumens per 250W driver.

So I wonder if I need U profiles (20x20x20x2mm) for them running at 0.55A (24.4W per strip) or I can go just with flat ALU bar 20x2mm? Or maybe just without all, only one L profile on each side of strip to hang them?
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
I like U-channels. Vertical surfaces shed their heat more easily than horizontal surfaces. Adds some rigidity too. Slightly more work to mount a driver on top of the frame then though.
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
I went the middle road between flat bar and U-channel. So it's T-channel.
Next week I will come with numbers if anyone is interested.
 

Nutria

Well-Known Member
You can't just lower lights to increase light intensity. All that does is create a hot spot with higher intensity and create darker areas by reducing the light somewhere else at the same amount you gained in the hot spot. Only benefit of lowering a fixture is lower wall losses. Which will gain you some light, but at the expense of poorer uniformity. The myth that you can simply create more light with moving the fixture down is just that, a myth. You can hang it higher and waste light on the walls for reduced intensity, but the other way does not work.
Can you help me understand this more?
(If we measure "light intensity" with PAR/PPF or lumens) why should distance from the light source doesn't have and effect on light intensity?
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Can you help me understand this more?
(If we measure "light intensity" with PAR/PPF or lumens) why should distance from the light source doesn't have and effect on light intensity?
I didn't say that. I said it has an impact on spread.

Changing he height changes the spread of the light. You do not get more or less light because of that. It's just in a different place. The gain in intensity you see somewhere means the intensity will have dropped somewhere else.

Take a flash light and shine it on the floor from say a meter away. You get a circle on the floor. Now move the light closer to the floor. The circle shrinks. So yes in the middle of the beam the light intensity will then increase, but now there is a large area outside of this circle which receives less or no light.
 

Nutria

Well-Known Member
I didn't say that. I said it has an impact on spread.

Changing he height changes the spread of the light. You do not get more or less light because of that. It's just in a different place. The gain in intensity you see somewhere means the intensity will have dropped somewhere else.

Take a flash light and shine it on the floor from say a meter away. You get a circle on the floor. Now move the light closer to the floor. The circle shrinks. So yes in the middle of the beam the light intensity will then increase, but now there is a large area outside of this circle which receives less or no light.
Thx for your answer.
What you're saying with your answer seems obvious, I just misunderstood what did you say before. That "light intensity" deceived me
 

wietefras

Well-Known Member
Thx for your answer.
What you're saying with your answer seems obvious, I just misunderstood what did you say before. That "light intensity" deceived me
Well I gave pretty much the same explanation in the sentence following the one with the word intensity in it :)
 

Nutria

Well-Known Member
Well I gave pretty much the same explanation in the sentence following the one with the word intensity in it :)
Probably my english isn't that good and because I didn't understand something then I asked. Since I find obvious what you said I though I could have missed something.
As I said terms like "light intensity" tricked me.
Same for "The myth that you can simply create more light with moving the fixture down is just that, a myth"
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
Okay, one frame is finished. Waiting for wires now for second frame.

MW 240H-C1050A goes to 326W, then after 5 minutes it stoped at 323W. Is this normal? Also, I don't like those drivers, too much variance on them. And we know they supposed to be "top drivers". In my opinion, top drivers/things has little to no variance. My old one goes to 293W, now than new one to 323W. That's 75W over specs!! 30%? And they supposed to be 250W drivers. Meh.

I bought them on Digikey, can we 100% trust them? There's a lot of fake items on the internet today... Any comment on upper words about MW? Also see picture, they're not identical, but numbers on them are okay.

 
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