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#351
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#353
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hi, subcool.
i have a few more questions that have arisen. one, i've had a bad experience with my second batch of supersoil. my first batch cooked in the hot sun for a couple months, and all seems to be well. it smells earthy, like....soil. my second batch, in the same type of containers (45 gal toughboys, or something), unfortunately sat in a much cooler garage for some time, and has developed a very strong ammonia smell. i suspect it's ruined. i can deal with that -- i just want to avoid another instance. i'm thinking of mixing another batch, putting in the came containers, and again putting them in the garage, but this time, covering the containers with a tarp or thermal blanket, and putting an oil-based heating radiator under the blanket with them. i'd warm the soil up, then put the heater on a timer to keep the temps up. it's going to be *real* cold outside, very soon. how's this plan sound to you? secondly, i recently read with interest your posting with ocanibus. you say: ""The first grow reports appeared online in October as the first seeds started poking through the soil, Ocanabis started just 6 seeds and had a 100% germ rate. They were grown under a 200 Watt CFL and remained there for the first few weeks until transplanting where they were moved under a 400watt Metal Halide for more vegging and training. After the first week they were fed using Advanced Nutrients line of organics as well as Fulvic and Humic Acids. These are to promote a stronger root and stem structure. At just two weeks the plants were very wide and stocky with nice thick stems. Three of the plants were perfect and 2 had slight mutations possible damage during the seedling stage. After 16 days of Vegative growth Ocanabis had them on the following nutrient schedule: Mix per 4 liters of water 4 ml Fulvic 4 ml Humic 4 ml B-52 60 ml Met Tea-Grow 5 ml B. Strap Mollases 5 ml L. Karma PH at 6.4-6.5 "" my question is: given that you use standard roots soil for seedlings and clones, and only use supersoil for older plants, would it be ok to use a soil mixture such as above, or with at least fulvic & humic acids, for the soil used with seedlings and clones? if it wouldn't interfere with future health, adding some nutrients to the start of the grow might be helpful? particularly to establish healthy roots? any help with these two questions will be greatly appreciated. |
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#354
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subcool-
your soil rocks! my plants have been in their 7 gal pots for 3 weeks and look so healthy! i'm curious about waterandrocks question too... also, do you supplement your supersoil with sucanat or any other carb supplement during flower, like on days 30 or 45? could you please recommend a usage rate? thanks! |
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#355
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Im new to this site and found this thread to be the best I have read so far. First I would like to thank you for the helping hand and appreciate it. I would like to give you some details on my situation and get your recommendations please. I have grown in the past and was lucky enough to learn outdoor growing from a old school organic guru like yourself but outdoors. I have not grown in years. My wife has suffered from cronic pain for years and we recently acquired a doctors script in the state of california.
I had considered hydro and built a ebb and flow but just didnt feel comfortable mixing nutes in a bottle. I did not realize organics were possible indoors . I prefer to grow indoors for the security issues. I will not ask you what if i use this or add that ! I learned a long time ago if it works dont fix it The mix sounds great and is exactly what i was looking for . Because of the calif 6 plant rule I really need to grow for very mature plants in massive containers with great nutrient reserve to make it to harvest. My plan was to use your super soil recipe in 27 gallon containers using a 400 wt halide for seedlings in 1 gallon containers to be transplanted into the 27 gallon containers with a long veg and flower cycle and swith to a 1000 watt for veg and hps bulb for flowering . To get large plants with max yield and stay within the 6 plant ruling. I was hoping to bend them over to get the lower shoots growing up into the light field for maximum yield. 1. Do you feel using these large containers will make it possible to pass up the 30 day top dressing and how long of a veg and bloom cycly would you recommend for such large containers . 2. From your experience what strain would you consider for max yield with a long season with a quality high under these growing conditions . 3. Is there a strain that has the ability to smell different than a typical grow for a low key grow. 4. I really was interested in white widow because of the quality of the buzz that is needed for my wifes condition. Could you give me your experience with the requirement for white widow as far as percent of super soil for optimum growth. Do you feel white widow would be a good choice based on smell , high and yield . Thanks again the thread was awesome and i read it from the first to last in a sitting. Great Job , keep it up !!!!!!!!!! |
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#356
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1. Do you feel using these large containers will make it possible to pass up the 30 day top dressing and how long of a veg and bloom cycly would you recommend for such large containers .
No matter how large a container we get added results with top dressing 2. From your experience what strain would you consider for max yield with a long season with a quality high under these growing conditions . I do not concern myself with yields large yielding strains are never the best meds 3. Is there a strain that has the ability to smell different than a typical grow for a low key grow. Design your grow room to prevent smells growing low odor weed yields low odor meds 4. I really was interested in white widow because of the quality of the buzz that is needed for my wifes condition. Could you give me your experience with the requirement for white widow as far as percent of super soil for optimum growth. Do you feel white widow would be a good choice based on smell , high and yield . White Widow is crap bro do some research and stop reading the large dutch ads Thanks again the thread was awesome and i read it from the first to last in a sitting. Great Job , keep it up !!!!!!!!!![/QUOTE] |
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#357
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http://discountnurserysupplies.com/w...sery-pots.html
Here's a good place I found for sourcing the buckets. They have two #10 buckets, one is wider one is taller. I went with with the "T" model. $2.70 a piece and they are 7.90 gallons. Mine just arrived They shipped them out to me quick for a good price too.
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purple kush in supersoil: vegging |
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#358
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Hey Sub, thanks for the recipe! Sounds like a winner.
Like others, I'm having problems finding the Azomite and humic acid. I'm going to try it without the humic acid and see how things go. Regarding the Azomite - it's almost 66% Silicon Dioxide. What about substituting some diatomaceous earth instead (86% silica, 5% sodium, 3% magnesium and 2% iron according to Wikipedia)? You'll certainly lose some trace elements, but I'm betting most others already exist in the mix in sufficient quantities. I didn't see any mention of watering - and in the past that's always been the easiest thing for me to screw up. Could you go over your watering process at each stage of growth? Your canopy seems awfully thick - does the 1kW penetrate down to the lower leaves? I'm planning on using two 600W lights for a 5'x3'x8-or-less' volume. Should I flower early and train the plants for a shallower canopy? Finally, what do you think of me summarizing the various questions in this thread into a single post and starting a new thread? It seems like a lot of questions were asked multiple times by folks who couldn't handle reading the whole thing. Thanks! |
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#359
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One more thing - I've been through several soil grows using a similar technique - rich, organic topsoil with minimal nutrients. No matter what I do, I always end up with fungus gnats. They never seemed to hurt the plants, but I'm sure they can't help(disease vectors if nothing else).
Do you get gnats? What do you do about them? Thanks! |
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#360
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Like others, I'm having problems finding the Azomite and humic acid. I'm going to try it without the humic acid and see how things go.
http://www.azomite.com/ Your not looking hartd enough bro they even sell it at Amazon Regarding the Azomite - it's almost 66% Silicon Dioxide. What about substituting some diatomaceous earth instead (86% silica, 5% sodium, 3% magnesium and 2% iron according to Wikipedia)? You'll certainly lose some trace elements, but I'm betting most others already exist in the mix in sufficient quantities. I would use fritted trace elements if I couldnt find az I didn't see any mention of watering - and in the past that's always been the easiest thing for me to screw up. Could you go over your watering process at each stage of growth? I water untill it flows into the catch pan and then I dont water again until plants almost wilt. Your canopy seems awfully thick - does the 1kW penetrate down to the lower leaves? I'm planning on using two 600W lights for a 5'x3'x8-or-less' volume. Should I flower early and train the plants for a shallower canopy? I get some larf if I dont trim the bottoms out but even if I dont it makes great bubble running 4 plants per bulb helps Finally, what do you think of me summarizing the various questions in this thread into a single post and starting a new thread? It seems like a lot of questions were asked multiple times by folks who couldn't handle reading the whole thing. I think this thread answers pretty much everything you could ask by now but your welcome to start a thread sub |
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