Canopy Managment 101 - Page 3

Phinxter · #21 09-08-2008, 08:19 PM

excellent thread Sub. 2 questions about your clones.
1. how tall do you cut your clones.
2. how wet do you initially make the rapid rooters.
i noticed the directions on the rapid rooters call for soaking them and mine seem to saturate to the point they hold about 1/4 cup of water .
i am used to rockwool cubes and this would be way too wet for how i do clones in RW.
however i see better results from firiends clones that were started in rapid rooters and want to give them a whirl

subcool · #22 09-08-2008, 08:26 PM

My clones are about 3" tall you can see pics on my cloning thread.
Cloning with Subcool ( Redundant Explanation with Pictures)

The best thing about rapid rooters is its almost impossible to over water em. Just dont let em dry out and we get great success. Once while traveling I left almost 1" of standing water in my trey and when we returned from a 7 day trip almost 80% were rooted.

rapid Rooters act completly diff that rockwool

subcool · #23 09-08-2008, 08:37 PM

Lets look at some real time action shots of work in progress

Here we load up a room

These plants were pre budding in the smaller room and now that we have harvested its time to load em in.

subcool · #24 09-08-2008, 08:49 PM

Hey do me a favor?
Please tell everyone that grows about this thread so we can help spread the craft ok?

Now I need to say that as far as yields I can not compete with hydro but no one has ever not wanted my bud. Even the cockiest of growers will ask me for meds so that has to mean something. To us taste and resin are paramount.
If I need to yield more I can just grow a bigger plant right.
What we are after here is Dank; The Very Best not to have shit loads of mediocre weed.

If you plants are not this happy before budding then change your methods.

Tommorow we will discuss another huge problem with new growers and old.

Over Feeding!

tom stevens · #25 09-09-2008, 03:52 PM

Well this is my first post here...im new to growing marijuana and, quickly becoming fascinated with the subject...right now there are 3 WWxNL#5 and 3 IBL Crystals in the flowering stage but they were not grown 100% organic...using FoxFarm Nutrients...a 4x4x7 grow tent is being used for flowering with a 400w HPS ...I read that 4x4 is the proper space for a 400w bulb...so I believe that the set up is correct...

With all that being said I just want to say thanks for making this whole sub section with such detailed information in it...I will be trying your super soil mix with the clones that are beginning to root... and also will try the early topping and LST with the WWxNL #5 clones...thinking of picking up some of the Vortex seeds which you spoke so highly about...so I will have an abundance of questions for you im sure when the time comes...hope you don't mind...but the details are what make the difference...and here is a place where details are not left out....thanks again and great job with this entire sub section...

subcool · #26 09-09-2008, 03:55 PM

Thanks very much Tom and all questions are welcome

Sub

desertrat · #27 09-09-2008, 04:15 PM

first, great work. my question is in regard to the sq ft recommended for each light size. assumptions -

1.the figures you show equate to about 3,000 lumens per sq ft at the edges of the grow area, if my light meter and r squared calcs are right.

2. the recommended minimum light is 3,000 lumens per sq ft.

3. going to the next larger light than you recommend gives 6,000 lumens per square ft at the edges of the grow area.

4. most people, myself included, start with a room size and figure out what light would be best for the area.

5. recreational growers care more about total yield or yield per square ft than yield/watt

question: given the above assumptions, aren't you better off using the next biggest light to maximize production in a set amount of space?
+ rep for the thread

subcool · #28 09-09-2008, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertrat

first, great work. my question is in regard to the sq ft recommended for each light size. assumptions -

1.the figures you show equate to about 3,000 lumens per sq ft at the edges of the grow area, if my light meter and r squared calcs are right.

2. the recommended minimum light is 3,000 lumens per sq ft.

3. going to the next larger light than you recommend gives 6,000 lumens per square ft at the edges of the grow area.

4. most people, myself included, start with a room size and figure out what light would be best for the area.

5. recreational growers care more about total yield or yield per square ft than yield/watt

question: given the above assumptions, aren't you better off using the next biggest light to maximize production in a set amount of space?
+ rep for the thread

The sizes I gave are so that people use there hoods properly
If you have a 12x12 Room id use 4-1000 watt bulbs to cover 4-6x6 footprints.

So what your asking is if you have a 4x4 room should you use the 1000 watt bulb anyway and the answer is yes if 4x4 is all the area you have but if you had the 6x6 you would simply produce more bud.

power is not cheap so dont right off a few amps thats why were in an energy crisis.

Sub

Seamaiden · #29 09-11-2008, 10:07 AM

No shit about the energy issue! We've done quite a bit to reduce our costs, not just for energy (propane and electric, in a county that provides water for Alameda and hydroelectric power) but other... "footprints" such as garbage.

I'll tell you what I would like to do, had I more funds, would be to try those sun tubes in an indoor growing space. Think about it, providing cool sunlight, actual sunlight, that, instead of being replaced by electric light would instead be supplemented by it. Problematic for those who want to grow using an alternate lighting schedule, but not for those a bit more pragmatic.

desertrat · #30 09-11-2008, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subcool

power is not cheap so dont right off a few amps thats why were in an energy crisis.

Sub

it's not a waste of energy if the yield in gm/watt is greater for the bigger light. so if you get a 1/2 increase in yield from a 600 compared to a 400 in the same grow space then its by definition more efficient to use. given the greater efficiency and shear amount of light this seems like a possibilty.

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