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Fits perfectly. I like it.

Lined up like soldiers!! I’m the kind of guy that just flys things to and fro. When I had a problem with a 1” circulation pipe on a few Rubbermaid pails I enlarged the intake to 1-1/2” and put a 1-1/2” in-line basket strainer and it worked but it was expensive because they were $30 each and I...

My best advice for you is to make a little enclosure box for your air pump with a MERV 13 rated air filter on one side. Your air pump diaphragm will last for years. Especially needed if you grow in a basement where an oil burner is near or if there is a lot of dust in your air. If you have a...

I haven’t used AC in about 8 years but that’s an awesome method to put more than one wall fan unit in the room. Better distribution and redundancy. Very cool! Ha! Get it?? Very COOL.

I’m thinking if the side of your tank isn’t perpendicular to the floor you should go with Hayward bulkheads. But even if it is perpendicular I still wouldn’t mess with the uniseal.

If you filter the air with MERV 13 or higher, your air pump diaphragms will last at least twice as long. I use carbon filtered air (pre-filtered with MERV 13) and my air pump diaphragms last for years now. Don’t get me wrong.,.it’s a lot of work to do that and it probably isn’t worth the...

I wasn’t sure what he was running either but I seen the AirForce 80 Pump he mentioned and your advice is correct , that he will get issues if they were linked together.

With that size pump you would definitely keep the lines separate. If you want emergency redundancy in the future you could put an air pressure switch on the head with a time delay to transfer from one pump to an alternate back up with the help of some motorized ball valves. I just did that...

Agreed. But if you increase the head diameter (the tubing that is common to both pumps ) the friction losses are very small.

The calculation that has worked for me is Whatever you need for that room for the hottest months of the year if you were just using it as a living room + (3.4 btu per watt of light x 1.5) = Mini Split BTU’s.

Yes, sums up my advice just the same.But it will not work that much harder if you increased the head diameter. The tubing diameter specifically.

Yes. You can but be sure to increase the diameter of the tubing or the friction will produce a lot of heat losses. Similar to when you run two water pumps into one common pipe (or head). You’ll get a slight reduction (in your particular case with an air pump, but a very large reduction in...

You’re going to get root clogs with 3/4” uniseals. People get root clogs even with the 2”.

Fe DTPA is best for hydro because of the availability within the 5.5-6.5 pH range. Another reason I like it is the flexibility. 1 ppm final Fe strength in the reservoir is ok (so I’ve read but I am yet to test going that low , and I am testing very soon) so if you were to add 4 times less from a...

World Magnetics PSF103. You have to figure out which one. You’ll be glad you did.

I used to do clones in DWC also but I liked the mixed bag of phenotypes seeds gives. 3 per bucket is a great strategy to get enough monsters out of seed pot luck. If you already have a great performing clone , that rocks too.

Large uniseals will always eventually leak when installed in the side of a non perpendicular tank wall. The only solution is to spend a fortune on Hayward bulkheads of the same diameter if you insist on unnecessary re-circulating DWC. But if you spent that much money on Hayward bulkheads...

Now I’m thinking the 79 g of potassium sulfate should be omitted (because K2SO4 is organic) and the rest of the potassium needed will come from 10% potassium hydroxide. That should be a close approximation of churchhaze #23 mix but with a little more Mg and S.

I crunched some numbers and came up with this: Part A 973 g Calcium Nitrate 30.86 g Iron DTPA 13% Top up to 1 gallon with warm RO water Part B 667 g Epsom Salt Top up to 1 gallon with warm RO water Part C 430 g Potassium Nitrate 187 g Monopotassium Phosphate 79 g Potassium Sulfate 14.54 g...

Understandably so.