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Painters or masking tape comes off easily and works great for this. I've split a stem over a foot down from the top and zip ties & painters tape had her right as rain, didn't even really show stress.

Unless you're planting into a bed I wouldn't worry too much about it, you can always yank the pot a few days into 12/12 if you're not sure. It takes time for the sacks to drop and open.

Do you use a mulch layer? Unless you're using wetting agents without something stoping surface evaporation thats going to happen when your surface dries out. You just need to break the hydrophobic surface layer basically. You can either scratch the surface, water in a couple smaller increments...

Using it as a mulch shouldnt steal nitrogen from anything but the very top layer of soil basically only at the point of contact. I've used woodchips for years and have never had issues with c:n balance once. Just don't mix it into your soil and you should be fine, personally I still prefer to...

Rice hulls,pumice,sand/greensand/minerals. Castings/compost/vermicompost are all going to hold more water than peat. Peat by itself drains super well because it's actually extremely hydrophobic when dry so you kinda really have to soak it to get it to fully saturate. Compost tends to absorb more...

Same with the vivosun tents, I have 2 4x4s a clone tent and a 10x10, zippers aren't the greatest but they always work and they have a few pinholes but I've never had any light leak issues because of it. People make pinholes into a way bigger deal than they need to instead of questioning shitty...

Dump it out, let it dry, mix in more aeration and make sure there are holes in the bucket for airflow and drainage if you're gonna leave it outside. The anaerobes will mostly all die off or go dormant and the aerobic microbes will outcompete them. Soil doesn't "go bad" unless it gets polluted(or...

Bone meal should be fine, people are talking about mono and diammonium phosphate or even in some cases monopotassium phosphate. Chances are if you're using a product that's 0-50-30 or something else with large npk values it's going to change your pH or ec to the point microbes won't perform...

Are you using tap or ro water? Iron and zinc should most likely be fine if you're using tap, check your water reports for zn content as that can sometimes change (mine dropped to ndl a year or so ago). Manganese is really hard to keep available in an organic system without using sulfates...

Imo I'd use cheap silica and just buy a bag of tm-7 instead but that's just me. You'll probably get the same effect for like 1/3 the price. Not saying aptus isn't good shit just trying to save you a couple bucks.

I used to hover between .75 and .9 g/w when I used hps lights, I'm just now finishing up trimming my second run under LED and my first run was 1.46 g/w and this one looks like it's going to be close, I need to wait for one plant to dry still but I'm already over 1 g/w with just the other 3 plants.

I have a 100g pot that I used coco instead of peat in and grow in it as a living soil, it works fine with blumats but it took a while to get used to hand watering. I wouldn't skip the 1/3 organic matter(compost,ewc) added to it though, it will help the mix hold more water. coco+aeration alone...

If you use bigger pots I'd say probably at least 10 gallons at the smallest you can get shipping wrap and just wrap the outside of the fabric pots down to about 2 or 3 inches from the bottom. That or grassroots style pots Seem to work the best in terms of watering for me.

Marigolds are a good companion plant if you have thrips or root eating nematodes, thrips seem to love them so it gives you an easy spot to kill a lot at one time. They also secrete toxins for root eating nematodes from my understanding, Steve Cantwell who runs a large commercial grow in Vegas...

Good worm castings tend to have a lot of bacteria and bugs/nematodes that help with ipm. Outside of that I would recommend spinosad and beauveria bassiana. Specifically if you're going to buy predators nematodes, and rove beetles are probably the two that I find most beneficial for me as a...

That's the same that I paid for my 730w fixtures and they have 301b and detachable meanwell drivers, it's not a bad deal, but it's also nothing special.

Careful with adding kelp regularly if you're reusing your soil, it brings a lot of arsenic and sodium over time. Really great stuff though for a myriad of reasons I'm sure people have covered a million times.

I definitely would agree with this I've never used any line of nutrients that didn't benefit from some Epsom and tm-7

All of your plants run on the same vpd chart regardless of the light because it should be based on leaf surface temps. The difference between hid and led for vpd is just how much of the energy from the light is transferred as heat to the environment and leaf surface. Leaf surface temp under hid...

You should try to see if you have a mixing yard near you, you may have to buy a half yard or so but a lot of the time they'll have the "fluffed" coir near me, not sure if it's buffered or not though.