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Since this thread was started I have gone from 1.2-1.3EC to 1with the RO once I am multifeeding per day. Thats almost the old head formula 6/9, just less P, and a little less Ca. I am using well water with it.

If you mix 3-2-1 and RO to the same EC, the ppm N, P, K etc is so close there is essentially no difference.

I use a tent for stress/botrytis resistance testing. If the cutting makes it through the tent test it will kickass in a proper room. In my situation inside tent is a good 10% higher humidity than the lung room.

RO works just as good as maxi. Everyone should be going by ppm N, P, K. the brand name doesnt mean shit. Everyone you listed are so close in NPK ratio that the onnly real difference is the brand name.

Just get from Jacks or masterblend.

Fm, most likely the progeny will be just like the progeny you would get if you used a male SSDD. Obviously they will all be females which will give you alot more chances to find a freak. Selfing the freaks is the way to go.

those look good hamilton. Cant remember the dads on those but from looking at them I would say gash is first two and wookie is last two.

If the pH was the problem all of them would have shown it. Same can be said for nutrients.

Next run try to get them all the same size in small container before putting into final container, that way they all fill up the final container evenly and are drinking/ drying out equally. Most likely you went to twice a day too soon or too late for those three.

FmSwayze most of the hashplant fathered will be fast and potent, around 60 days. That Lazy Lightning and Hp D both get cut down by 63 days here. That Hp D, is mothballs and sweaty clothes. Its a slow ride on air ballon into orbit, but it keeps you in orbit for a long time.. That Lazy Lightning...

My Lazy Lightning I have had for years and put on here before. Still the best high I have ever had.

My new Hp D plant.

yea, its cooler from water evaporating. Water changing from fluid to vapor and vice versa can release or absorb alot of heat. Example of the opposite is for frost protection fruit trees will get sprayed with water, its the water constantly freezing that is giving off heat.

Duhh, yes it should wick up 8 inches. Thats the same height, or close to it ,above the reservoir that batos are. You can use small cups of perlite with hole on side to root cuttings in also, or start seed in if you want to go straight perlite.

Jack's RO one part with sulfuric as your pH down is almost identical to using 3-2-1. Just mix RO to around 1.3 EC if you want the equivalent to 3-2-1 in a one part. 1.0-1.2 EC will be enough though. It works great thru veg and flwer. If you dont like doing that get maxibloom for flower.

Hp D

Just sexed a pack of BT, some short/wide with leaf that doesnt look anything like ghash and tall/upright vigorous ones with the ghash leaf shape. Two of the tall ones are female and one of the shorty looking ones but its more intermediate between short and tall than the other shortys.

Just use coco from beginning, get two 2 gallon max size container if you want to fertigate few times a day. You will use few gallons of nutrient solution per day so size your rez according to how often you want to fill the rez. Hopefully you can drain to waste easily.

Your daylength may not be long enough yet, try to extend the daylength for awhile.

Perlite in a bato will wick the nutrient solution up. Two lines per bato is they way they usually go in commercial vegetable production but thats probably two in case one line malfunctions. I used one line to the bato with a T and it worked fine for me for a long time.