Newbie experience with Timber Grow Lights & DIY

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I wanted to post a review of my experience with Timber Grow Lights (and Dan). When originally deciding on lights I started my journey with information gleaned primarily from amazon reviews. Frankly this was before I found RIU. I ended up with a few popular budget LED panels. I'll leave out brands because that isn't important in this context. It wasn't long before I learned the error of my ways. In short I was expecting far too much from my budget panels, was nowhere near as efficient as I thought I was, and I had next to no warranty. I firmly believe there is a place for the LED panels that I had but they weren't right for me.

I learned that if I downsized my space I could have far superior lighting for the same price with a 5 year warranty and humans I could call.

After asking a bunch of questions and reading a ton more, I ended up calling Dan at Timber. I told him about my goals and he suggested the 300W CREE CXB3590 kit. I told him I'd get back to him and did some more research in case he was just trying to sell me something. I kept reading that he and his kits were solid so I called him back and placed my order.

They test each kit for 24 hours prior to shipping. That said, I had the kit in my hands the following week.

Packaging: As discreet as it can get, zero information on the box aside from the shipping label. Each heatsink and light assembly was individually bubble wrapped and packed into small boxes (see photo of floor layout). Driver and wiring was neatly organized and individually wrapped as well.

Wiring: I was really worried about screwing something up but each wire is color coded to match the colored connectors in a series which is then color coded to the leads from the power supply (see photo of color coded wire terminals). I've built more than a few computers spanning micro to full ATX and here I was intimidated by this... I felt a fool within 30 seconds of opening the box. I could honestly have my 2 year old son wire this after about 30 minutes of simply demonstrating that wire color matches terminal color.

Pre-Assembly: I mention having built computers in the past and one thing I was a stickler about is always using high quality thermal paste. I could overclock a 3.2 GHz CPU to 4.5 easily with a good heatsink and clutch is the quality of the thermal paste. There are other DIY kits that use graphite pads. I could rant on that for an hour though perhaps a graphite pad is good enough for heat transfer in an LED application. The Timber website mentioned using Arctic 5 thermal paste. This stuff is 99.9% silver and shouldn't be overlooked. It runs $8 for a mere 3.5 grams. The heatsinks that come with the kit are fantastic but I attribute a lot of the reason why I can hold my hand on them inevitably after an 18 hour cycle at 100% without it feeling hot to the lack of skimping on the details. Well done Timber.

Framing: Although Timber offers a frame I opted to build my own. I used 1/8" aluminum angle. I cut with my mitre saw using an 80 tooth blade. Everything for the frame was picked up at lowes. I taped out the exact interior space of my tent on my kitchen floor to use as a coverage guide. I called Dan about 3 times, read about 100 posts, and finally decided on spacing. As mentioned by others, it is really just a matter of shifting into ninja erector set mode. It took me about 4 hours but I was taking my time. I'm forgetful yet for some reason I despise writing measurements down. This leads me to taking twice as long as anyone else.

Reflectors & Diffusers: Very cool that these are included in every kit. I once again read a lot and called Dan on my configuration and ended up running the reflectors with no diffusers. They both pop on and off with ease. Damn I love how flexible this DIY approach is.

Performance: They run very very cool. I assumed that I'd need a cooling solution and even ordered THIS temperature controller to kick on a clip on fan over the heatsinks if temps around the canopy exceeded 85°. With my LED panels, I was hitting low 90's (granted it is very hot right now). With these I haven't exceeded 82°. My plants seemed to have responded very well to them. This is my first grow, I'm at day 26 or 27. You may notice in the pictures that I have 5 happy plants. This is too many plants for this space. This was from my original configuration. Next round I'm going with a 2 plant (either 5G or 10G soil) SCROG. They've been running now for over a week on a 18/4 schedule with zero issues.

Areas where improvement would help:
1. There are 4 holes drilled and tapped into the heatsink for flexible mounting options. There are two black headed screws included for each heatsink. This leaves you with two holes with nothing in them. Maybe it is OCD but having two exposed holes bothers me and I would have gladly paid a few extra bucks for extra black screws to fill them. To me it looks like I screwed something up.

2. The warranty information can be found online however it would be nice to print up a summary with links and telephone numbers to include in the packaging. That said Dan honestly strikes me as the kind of person that would act as a conduit for any issue spanning the Cree lights or Meanwell driver.

3. Mention in the instructions that each color coded terminal has two inputs. It wasn't crystal to me if those were just extras in case of an error or if they both needed to be leveraged somehow.

Overall: The flexibility, scalability, warranty, and efficiency of this kit along with the absolute joy it was to work with Dan makes it very easy for me to recommend to anyone. I'd be lying if I said there wasn't also a cool factor in the fact that it is DIY (even though they do 99% of the work haha).

One final thing. As a newbie, this post "IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!" was overwhelming. I'm sure it was well intended but jesh there is a lot of bickering in there. You guys that know a lot only serve to confuse us newer folks if you deviate from advice into complex technical arguments and oftentimes all out cock measuring contests. At least, that was the case for me. YMMV.

Ok onto the pics!
 

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BobCajun

Well-Known Member
People still selling kits with the translucent reflectors and the pin heat sinks I see. Both of which will work but are not the best choices available. Pin heat sinks are designed for tilted spotlights. They do work in a vertical position but there is obviously no vertical air flow though the pins, because there are no holes in the bottom, just a flat round plate, which is why they are meant for tilted spotlights.

The translucent reflectors are obviously not the best way to direct the most light downward. Anyone can see there's visible light going through the sides, which I guess would be good for lighting walls. I know you can't get the metallic kind in a 90 degree option, but you CAN get the 60 degree kind, which would probably be better. Why would you want to spread the light 90 degrees? Isn't the goal to direct it downward?

Not trying to pick on Dan here. He sells the same type of components as pretty much everybody else, who also apparently didn't think it through too thoroughly. Since when have pin heat sinks and translucent 90 degree reflectors been shown to produce optimal results? I'd guess never, since it would be an impossibility.
 

researching

Well-Known Member
I noticed you mention ocd. In this PC world we live in I call it perfectionist. I suffer from it to. Ever notice how it takes a lot longer to get stuf done because of it? I cut my angle with a hacksaw and mitre box. My mitre box sucks and a lot of thme pieces weren't true. I had to work through that mentally and just go with it lol. I still want to just say fuck it and take my frames to a welding shop to have them weld the corners to meet my satisfaction. Fun stuff! Nice build.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
I noticed you mention ocd. In this PC world we live in I call it perfectionist. I suffer from it to. Ever notice how it takes a lot longer to get stuf done because of it? I cut my angle with a hacksaw and mitre box. My mitre box sucks and a lot of thme pieces weren't true. I had to work through that mentally and just go with it lol. I still want to just say fuck it and take my frames to a welding shop to have them weld the corners to meet my satisfaction. Fun stuff! Nice build.
Hehe thanks man, I was contemplating building the frame out of 80/20 quick frame but realized that I'd have to toss it if I wanted to change it up. At least with crap looking aluminum angle, it isn't costly to totally re-configure the array. I've got small black adhesive backed zip tie mounts on the way, I hate that my wiring guides are so much larger than need be : o )

@BobCajun - Thanks for the insight, now that I think about it why would anyone make a reflector that leaks light. For me, baby steps man. I have to find a balance between researching something to the point where other categories in my life are deteriorating and then pulling out before things go sideways. I've been doing this for all of 4 weeks and I'm at where I'm at. My primary goal was to start with a proven foundation and get away from pre-fab LED panels with little support and/or warranty.

@verticalgrow - The driver is double-insulated and mounted to the frame. My understanding is that it doesn't need earth. Grounding isn't mentioned in the product's spec-sheet nor mentioned in the instructions. Do you know for certain if it should be? If so, I'll ground it this evening.

Forgot to mention spacing. I'm moving to a 2 possibly 3 plant SCROG in this tent, spacing is currently 14" lat and 16" lon on center.
 
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verticalgrow

Well-Known Member
Hehe thanks man, I was contemplating building the frame out of 80/20 quick frame but realized that I'd have to toss it if I wanted to change it up. At least with crap looking aluminum angle, it isn't costly to totally re-configure the array. I've got small black adhesive backed zip tie mounts on the way, I hate that my wiring guides are so much larger than need be : o )

@BobCajun - Thanks for the insight, now that I think about it why would anyone make a reflector that leaks light. For me, baby steps man. I have to find a balance between researching something to the point where other categories in my life are deteriorating and then pulling out before things go sideways. I've been doing this for all of 4 weeks and I'm at where I'm at. My primary goal was to start with a proven foundation and get away from pre-fab LED panels with little support and/or warranty.

@verticalgrow - The driver is double-insulated and mounted to the frame. My understanding is that it doesn't need earth. Grounding isn't mentioned in the product's spec-sheet nor mentioned in the instructions. Do you know for certain if it should be? If so, I'll ground it this evening.

Forgot to mention spacing. I'm moving to a 2 possibly 3 plant SCROG in this tent, spacing is currently 14" lat and 16" lon on center.
g'day Slow,
Maybe grounding is only required for 240 volts DIY COB lights.
ive seen other DIYers adding safety but not sure wat country they live in.
Also does timber DIY come with a fuse?
:peace:VG:eyesmoke:
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
@BobCajun - Thanks for the insight, now that I think about it why would anyone make a reflector that leaks light.
It's because they're made for normal indoor lighting applications, not plant growth. Normally you would want some mild side light in addition to down light. For that they work great. They're not terrible for plant lights, just not the best choice. You could just wrap them in aluminum foil or mylar as a quick fix. Though the light would still have to pass both ways through the plastic to get directed downward. I also don't think 90 degrees is the most appropriate beam angle for a reflector for plant growth anyway. 60 degrees is a nice triangle shape, 90 is like the corner of a square. Why would you need a beam with that wide a spread? If it was 400w you might need such a wide beam, to avoid having to put it 10' feet above the plants or whatever. But with little COBs run at maybe 50w each, I don't think height would be a problem.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
@BobCajun makes sense. I'm a tad beyond reccomended spacing so in my case, when I'm running a SCROG I believe a 90 will work nicely. If I was 12" on center yeah, I could see 60 making more sense.
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Nice man! If I wanted to go with Timber, what sort of frame should I start looking into?

What size tent are you in ? I have a 3.5 FT x 3.5 Ft
Thanks bro! I ended up getting all of the parts at lowes. Basically a few 5' sections of 1/8" aluminum angle, screws, washers and some eye bolts to hang it from. My tent is a GrowLab 80L which is 4'11" x 2'7". I've found it an ideal size for 2 rows of COBs man. If I end up getting some feminized seeds I'll go SCROG but right now I've got a ton of solid regs so I plan to mainline a few cycles and either breed or just use the males as a learning tool.

Dude you should peep @Six9 setup, he's got a square tent too and an ultra slick/compact frame for his timber kit.
 

714steadyeddie

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro! I ended up getting all of the parts at lowes. Basically a few 5' sections of 1/8" aluminum angle, screws, washers and some eye bolts to hang it from. My tent is a GrowLab 80L which is 4'11" x 2'7". I've found it an ideal size for 2 rows of COBs man. If I end up getting some feminized seeds I'll go SCROG but right now I've got a ton of solid regs so I plan to mainline a few cycles and either breed or just use the males as a learning tool.

Dude you should peep @Six9 setup, he's got a square tent too and an ultra slick/compact frame for his timber kit.
Just chacked out his setup that's dope.

Your set Up is tight, did you get the 300w(6)?
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
Just chacked out his setup that's dope.

Your set Up is tight, did you get the 300w(6)?
Yeah man, 300W. They are spaced like so:

X -14"- X -14"- X on center
|
16" between row on center
|
X -14"- X -14"- X on center

With something like 5" or so between the frame and tent all the way around. I can dig up my measurements but the above is what I'm remembering. With no reflectors the coverage seems very uniform. Most would say 300W is a little low in this space but man my next grow I'm thinking of trying 6 plants with an optics-less COB shooting right down each manifold. That's if I can keep them in nice columns, who knows.
 

714steadyeddie

Well-Known Member
Yeah man, 300W. They are spaced like so:

X -14"- X -14"- X on center
|
16" between row on center
|
X -14"- X -14"- X on center

With something like 5" or so between the frame and tent all the way around. I can dig up my measurements but the above is what I'm remembering. With no reflectors the coverage seems very uniform. Most would say 300W is a little low in this space but man my next grow I'm thinking of trying 6 plants with an optics-less COB shooting right down each manifold. That's if I can keep them in nice columns, who knows.
That's great thanks!

Ya you could have each cob directly at a mainline that would be sick.

How's the heat out put? Are you still venting as hard ?
 

slow_grow

Well-Known Member
That's great thanks!

Ya you could have each cob directly at a mainline that would be sick.

How's the heat out put? Are you still venting as hard ?
With my fan controller on low the tent has yet to reach more than 10 degrees hotter than the room's temp. With zero air movement you can hold your hand on the heat sink indefinitely. I actually threw a heater in there during germination.

Check it out: http://rollitup.org/t/oscillating-temp-controlled-heater-in-tent-ok.923017/#post-13020997
 
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