4 tons 9k

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
so you are cooling 18 open 1000's with a 4 ton? and this guy is telling me bs on a 5 ton for 18,lol

or are you running 9 and 9 on a flip?

I have built rooms with 1, 5 ton unit on a zone control and as soon as the lights go off in 1 room, the other comes on and the air is transfered to that room
I'm not calling bullshit on anything you've said about room cooling. You said you had an HVAC certification, so I was asking questions of the expert in an effort to better understand.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
I'm not calling bullshit on anything you've said about room cooling. You said you had an HVAC certification, so I was asking questions of the expert in an effort to better understand.
yeah, I have a c-20 and almost 20 yrs experience in a/c.
 

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
You nailed it. Ive been saying that for years. Im at 80 and 900. Plants have never been better. Yields have never been better. Quality has never been better.
I like your style mongo.
I set my lights on temp to 80(at canopy), and co2 to 1000ppm. Works great. And most my flower rooms have plants at different ages in them.

I have however farted around with much higher temps along with higher co2 ppm's. I know likey. Could never dial it in like that. Bigger, but way fluffier buds. Fuck that.
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
I like your style mongo.
I set my lights on temp to 80(at canopy), and co2 to 1000ppm. Works great. And most my flower rooms have plants at different ages in them.

I have however farted around with much higher temps along with higher co2 ppm's. I know likey. Could never dial it in like that. Bigger, but way fluffier buds. Fuck that.
Start with high temps and high co2. Work your way down. I veg around 85 degrees 900 ppm 65-70% humidity. Same for the first. 2 weeks of flower. I then drop the temps down about 2 degrees a week until I get a minimum of 74 lights on. Turn the Co2 off the last week of flower.
 

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
Start with high temps and high co2. Work your way down. I veg around 85 degrees 900 ppm 65-70% humidity. Same for the first. 2 weeks of flower. I then drop the temps down about 2 degrees a week until I get a minimum of 74 lights on. Turn the Co2 off the last week of flower.
Unfortunately none of my flower rooms have just one cycle of plants going on. I'll have plants just starting flowering, while Some plants are finishing up, in the same room. The numbers I mentioned were what works fantastic for my bloom rooms. 80 on/ 68 off w/1000 ppm.
I veg at about 85ish also. No co2 though. I try to give them a lil higher humidity also.;-)
Rite now in NorCal, one of my veg rooms is getting up to about 90F and only 30% :shock:. Been really hot lately lol. No biggie though
 
Last edited:

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Sizing for a grow op on a flip schedule. I want to recycle the heat for dehuey, heating and other uses.
Never done anything like that, again, no need in socal, But I have seen where the condenser was install in a basement and the hot air was duct ed out. Sizing heat for a grow room is a new one on me, you guys got it rough in up there.

you ever seen a zone system?
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately none of my flower rooms have just one cycle of plants going on. I'll have plants just starting flowering, while Some plants are finishing up, in the same room. The numbers I mentioned were what works fantastic for my bloom rooms. 80 on/ 68 off.
I veg at about 85ish also. No co2 though. I try to give them a lil higher humidity also.;-)
Rite now in NorCal, one of my veg rooms is getting up to about 90F and only 30% :shock:. Been really hot lately lol. No biggie though
the way I grow, only have to trim a few plants at a time and I'm always working and always have weed.:bigjoint:
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Never done anything like that, again, no need in socal, But I have seen where the condenser was install in a basement and the hot air was duct ed out. Sizing heat for a grow room is a new one on me, you guys got it rough in up there.

you ever seen a zone system?
Dehuey is done by cooling the air below dewpoint to squeeze the moisture out of it, then heating the air back up to the target range. During daylight, the lamps handle the heating. At night, the situation is different.

I'm already using water cooled air handlers, I just see zero reason to spend money on electric heating just because the bulbs are turned off.

Hot water circuit will also include domestic hot water, home heating in winter, heating the hot tub, and possibly even luxuries like getting the garage ou even pouring a new driveway with waterlines in it for 'geothermal' cooling/deicing in winter.

In addition to chilling RDWC systems and cooling growrooms, the cold side will also provide cooling for living spaces and already provides environmental control for the trim room.

I'm interested in how a zone system might be useful. What else is important to know?
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Dehuey is done by cooling the air below dewpoint to squeeze the moisture out of it, then heating the air back up to the target range. During daylight, the lamps handle the heating. At night, the situation is different.

I'm already using water cooled air handlers, I just see zero reason to spend money on electric heating just because the bulbs are turned off.

Hot water circuit will also include domestic hot water, home heating in winter, heating the hot tub, and possibly even luxuries like getting the garage ou even pouring a new driveway with waterlines in it for 'geothermal' cooling/deicing in winter.

In addition to chilling RDWC systems and cooling growrooms, the cold side will also provide cooling for living spaces and already provides environmental control for the trim room.

I'm interested in how a zone system might be useful. What else is important to know?
zone system is controlling the air flow with motorized dampers and a zone board, each zone has it's own t-stat. I bet you could use one to control water valves, the zone board just runs on 24 v and sends a signal from stat on when to open and close.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
zone system is controlling the air flow with motorized dampers and a zone board, each zone has it's own t-stat. I bet you could use one to control water valves, the zone board just runs on 24 v and sends a signal from stat on when to open and close.
That's what I thought. I designed my multi space system to run continuously, no zones, for several reasons. I run my spaces with thermostats but the chilling water is continually passing through the air handler, even if the thermostat is not running the fan to cool the room.
 

patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
I am not a fan of using a flip system and definitely not a fan of using same air for 2 rooms. When one room is sleeping if your exchanging the air you can't get temps low enough during lights off. That isn't a controlled environment . Also. That is stupid as fuck to say you are doing 18k watts with 1 Ac because it's on a "flip". You are doing 9 at a time on that Ac. Whoever said I should lower my ppm to save money, I almost shot water out my nose. I'm all about saving.. But do you think that me lowering my co2 to potentially hurt my yield , to save 13 dollars per run... Sounds like a good idea? I fucking hate hobbyist growers . I spend like 40 dollarsa batch on co2. To switch up a routine that works beautifully to save 13 bucks.. I'll definitely look into that.
 

a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
I am not a fan of using a flip system and definitely not a fan of using same air for 2 rooms. When one room is sleeping if your exchanging the air you can't get temps low enough during lights off. That isn't a controlled environment . Also. That is stupid as fuck to say you are doing 18k watts with 1 Ac because it's on a "flip". You are doing 9 at a time on that Ac. Whoever said I should lower my ppm to save money, I almost shot water out my nose. I'm all about saving.. But do you think that me lowering my co2 to potentially hurt my yield , to save 13 dollars per run... Sounds like a good idea? I fucking hate hobbyist growers . I spend like 40 dollarsa batch on co2. To switch up a routine that works beautifully to save 13 bucks.. I'll definitely look into that.
Think all that people were mentioning is that 900-1000ppm is all thats needed for super dank. You might of confused some people because you mentioned before that your eating top roman. And the the savings would be 28 dollars. Times 4, i mean thats a hundred bucks. Steak Baby!!!!!!!
 

patrickkawi37

Well-Known Member
Think all that people were mentioning is that 900-1000ppm is all thats needed for super dank. You might of confused some people because you mentioned before that your eating top roman. And the the savings would be 28 dollars. Times 4, i mean thats a hundred bucks. Steak Baby!!!!!!!
I am confused where we're getting the 28 from. I don't eat steak or top ramen because I am a health nut vegetarian , but back when the struggle was real in the 4 light days, I was all bout that shit haha. I'm sure 900-1000 is all that's needed . But if I got one ounce more by pushing it to 1500, then that co2 surely paid for itself. I go overboard in every variable I can, under 2 pounds per light is not an option. I don't budget my grows, I overspend on the business, my batches are slow turn around. I MUST get the yield every time. So using same Ac for 2 rooms, running in the 80s, using less co2, cheaper nutrients... All that, it ain't for me . I'm not a good grower, if I take away the perfection of my rooms, I'm nothin but your average 1.5 a light pullin nobody
 
Top