What's the best 1000w hps bulb money can buy

bluerock

Active Member
A mag ballast should be able to run DE bulbs no problem.
What makes you think so? Have you tried it? I attempted to run a Plantmax HPS DE bulb with a 2013 Xtrasun Dial-A-Watt 1000w ballast. It flickers pretty much continuously at 1000 watt setting but was apparently stable at the 750 watt dial setting. Based on a conversation with Solis-Tek, it is my understanding that the operating frequency of digital ballasts is inversely proportional to the wattage selected. Not sure if that is a linear relationship, I didn't bother to graph the data.

Since almost all magnetic ballasts are operating at relatively low frequencies, I have no expectation that they would fire a DE bulb, as those are known to require high operating frequencies. I did not expect the Xtrasun to work with the DE bulb, I just tried it anyways. Ballast manufacturers do not generally advertise the operating frequencies of their ballasts.
 

daybreaker

Well-Known Member
I do a bulb change every 3rd grow ... I have in the past had super luck with "Digilux" bulbs but I got tired of spending so much on bulbs so I started to experiment and after a few years of trying various bulbs and seeing such a minimal final weight gain I now just use whatever I can get the cheapest off of ebay as long as they are a digital type bulb.

On another note and this is my .02 worth ...
A lot of guys are talking about "Gavita" double enders and yes they are all that as I too have seen first hand some serious yields lately on fellow growers crops but I can't say as the math would work out to make it worth while to change over ... ballast, bulb and different cooling setup for the room seeing as how they are not a hood cooled package. The coin adds up fast as you all know. I guess if I was just starting out I'd give them a whirl.
whats the difference between a digital bulb and a hortilux?or is hortilux digital.Also,is it necessary to run digital bulb with digital ballast?
 
Eh are you running DE bulbs on mag ballasts?

Ushio support says to use high frequency ballasts only and nowhere else have I seen anyone recommend mag ballasts with DE bulbs.
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
What makes you think so? Have you tried it? I attempted to run a Plantmax HPS DE bulb with a 2013 Xtrasun Dial-A-Watt 1000w ballast. It flickers pretty much continuously at 1000 watt setting but was apparently stable at the 750 watt dial setting. Based on a conversation with Solis-Tek, it is my understanding that the operating frequency of digital ballasts is inversely proportional to the wattage selected. Not sure if that is a linear relationship, I didn't bother to graph the data.
@whazzup (who I don't think frequents these forums anymore) who worked or works for gavita spoke about this and the relationship is not linear, lower wattage higher frequency. Pretty interesting and even shows some videos of older lower frequency digital ballasts and the effects of resonance.

http://www.greenpassion.org/topic/16601-e-ballast-test-lumatek-vs-bal-vs-leuchtek/

- Jiji
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
just a question a little off topic, but my ballast has a 110% super setting on a 600 watt hps/mh digital dimmable ballast, will putting it at the super setting efect the life of my bulbs? does that setting really do anygood over powering the bulb? i have an i power ballast w/ i power bulb set at 110%, and my other ballast is a lumpower 600 watt dig dimable w a plantmax 600 watt hps set at 100% and see no diference in light..
 

bluerock

Active Member
just a question a little off topic, but my ballast has a 110% super setting on a 600 watt hps/mh digital dimmable ballast, will putting it at the super setting efect the life of my bulbs? does that setting really do anygood over powering the bulb? i have an i power ballast w/ i power bulb set at 110%, and my other ballast is a lumpower 600 watt dig dimable w a plantmax 600 watt hps set at 100% and see no diference in light..
1. Yes, running at the "110%" setting will shorten the life of the bulb. I'd like to think that this feature was added in order to squeeze every bit of use out of a bulb before tossing it, but now I think it was done as a marketing idea. "This ballast goes to 11".
2. You are going from 600w to 660w. If the ballast is the "soft dim" type, it gradually ups the wattage. Not easy to see, you should check it with a light meter. Those cheapie analog meters from Hydrofarm work great for this.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
1. Yes, running at the "110%" setting will shorten the life of the bulb. I'd like to think that this feature was added in order to squeeze every bit of use out of a bulb before tossing it, but now I think it was done as a marketing idea. "This ballast goes to 11".
2. You are going from 600w to 660w. If the ballast is the "soft dim" type, it gradually ups the wattage. Not easy to see, you should check it with a light meter. Those cheapie analog meters from Hydrofarm work great for this.
i think mine jumps the intensity quickly. when i turn the nob i can see the light intensify instantly.. guess i should go switch it back to 100% before i screw up my bulbs life..that seems like something companies would do, increase the output of the ballasts so u have to buy bulbs more frequently,,,gooid way to make more money,,but it screws us,,the customers...so what good is the 110% setting? only good for the last month ur useing the bulb??...
 
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polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
Hortiluxurious is well known for building bulbs optimal for magnetic ballast.
think bout it

Different manufacturers diff3rent but similar tactics across the board
 

Fease

Well-Known Member
I heard or read that light/penetration of a 600w in regard to the heat it puts it out and how close you can put it is actually superior to a 1000w?
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
I heard or read that light/penetration of a 600w in regard to the heat it puts it out and how close you can put it is actually superior to a 1000w?
Correct except in the case of vertical positioned bulb.

There is a grey area to every thing.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
And also to match th3 same area 8n cuft with 600w compared to a 100w so when ur talking 12kw of lighting the 1kw are more efficient. Especially so if vertical or DE​
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
If you're just starting out, absolutely the double ended bulbs. You actually don't have to use their ballasts - most high frequency ballasts will support DE bulbs.

You can compare the umol/s of various HPS bulbs here as an example.

http://www.ushio.com/HiLuxGRO/

The high end DE blow regular HPS's out of the water.

From what I've read, you can use the old Lumatek sealed ballasts, Galaxy Select-a-watts, and Gavita Pros. However, based on the fact that the old Lumatek's work and most e-ballasts are based on the same technology/manufacturers based out of China, I suspect almost all e-ballasts with high frequency will operate these bulbs.

The only expense to switch is the reflector hoods and you can get a SunDyn off eBay for ~165, 220s? if you include the regular DE bulb but I'd get the HiLux Gro for ~200 more umol/s (PAR) for ~20$ more. You end up saving much more money in not having to change the bulbs and electricity efficiency.
Yep I run a HiLux/Galaxy combo. Absolutely out performs any single ended combo I have ever tried. And from the reports I have gotten running a bulb 2 years is the norm before having to change. After 3 cycles my bulbs PAR has only diminished about 3%.
 

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
Hortilux Super HPS here. I like having the extra blue in my flower as well.

Interesting to see that EYE is making a line of T5s. I do all if my vegging with ATI T5s in an ATI fixture. They're almost too strong. I learned from reefkeeping that it's safer for your corals to go from T5 to MH rather than the other way around. If you don't ease in T5s, they will burn your corals. Of course the fixture, ballast, and lamps all come into play. ATI is top of the line in the reef world.
 

jimmy slim big

Well-Known Member
20 bucks per bulb replaced every single run .... why would anyone wanna pay that kinda money for a bulb that losses a shit ton of lumens within the first 2 months??? replace every grow with cheap bulbs!!
 
20 bucks per bulb replaced every single run .... why would anyone wanna pay that kinda money for a bulb that losses a shit ton of lumens within the first 2 months??? replace every grow with cheap bulbs!!
Typically the increased yields from higher quality lamps will more than make up for the cheap bulbs - that and less light deterioration means less bulb changing in the first place.
 
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