Bout to Blow Up the Basement

DubC_420

Active Member
Ya. I tried something very similar. Now I just use plastic shot glasses to start seeds and the foam discs for cuttings.

Clones take well in a 3 gallon or so plastic tote with small holes for the stem to fit through and a small water pump with a pvc rectangle and sprinkler fittings screwed into drilled holes.

FYI
My small pump for this just went out so I am using 2. 4watt air pumps to feed 4 air stones and still has cutting ls rooting and seed starts rooting out well. So maybe that is really all we all need??? I am not in the market for another water pump since this is working and seems to keep 2 water temps down since a pump isn't submerged in the bottom of the comtainer
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Ya. I tried something very similar. Now I just use plastic shot glasses to start seeds and the foam discs for cuttings.

Clones take well in a 3 gallon or so plastic tote with small holes for the stem to fit through and a small water pump with a pvc rectangle and sprinkler fittings screwed into drilled holes.

FYI
My small pump for this just went out so I am using 2. 4watt air pumps to feed 4 air stones and still has cutting ls rooting and seed starts rooting out well. So maybe that is really all we all need??? I am not in the market for another water pump since this is working and seems to keep 2 water temps down since a pump isn't submerged in the bottom of the comtainer
For those still running water pumps, putting them on a timer and running them for fifteen to thirty seconds every five minutes is another way to minimize heating from the pump.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
^ if anyone wants to create such a timer (one that can go off and on in minutes) there is a good YouTube video out there about how to take one if the gears out of a mechanic timer which turns a 24hour timer into a 60 minute timer

Used it for my aeroponic cloner (which I don't use anymore)
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That netpot bucket lid idea is what I built my entire perpetual system around; I pot my girls into those pretty early and then move them from zone to zone as they grow, finally placing them onto a vertical trellis as their last stop. The roots are often trailing over a foot below the pot and big enough to have to work to get them all to fit through a five gallon lid sized opening.

Every zone is hydroponic, either ebb n flood for the youngsters or RDWC- a temperature controlled version of what you just built- for the grownups.

Clean build, I like.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Hope you got a dehumidifier.
Basement + enclosed grow space = mould
I seriously underestimated the importance of humidity when I first started. Couldnt figure out why wet spots were appearing and crystals were growing out of the basement floor! I had mold growing on the surfaces of my kitchen cabinets. Turns out my home was running at 80-90% relative humidity just from having a single 600 HPS setup. Anyway, now I have 2 dehumidifiers and 6 humidistats. Constantly monitoring the temp and humidity upstairs, in the basement and outside. When it is cool and dry, pump in the outside air. When it is hot and humid, run the AC and dehumidifier. With humidity at 55-60% I can get by OK. Generally, the bigger the dehumidifier and AC, the more efficient it is (unless it is so big that it is constantly kicking on and off)
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
Generally, the bigger the dehumidifier and AC, the more efficient it is (unless it is so big that it is constantly kicking on and off)
I don't know if I would say that. First of all inverter mini-splits wouldn't fall into that. Also, the smaller the AC the more its going to run = more dehumidification. Dehumidifiers seem to be relative to the class they are in but not size as far as efficiency. Class meaning box store special compared to Santa fe.

- Jiji
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I don't know if I would say that. First of all inverter mini-splits wouldn't fall into that. Also, the smaller the AC the more its going to run = more dehumidification. Dehumidifiers seem to be relative to the class they are in but not size as far as efficiency. Class meaning box store special compared to Santa fe.

- Jiji
And then there is the efficiency of the overall system, which takes into account such variables as good airflow management, good timing for temperature practices, whether that AC compressor is cooling air or chilling water and much, much more.

Are there leaks in the growroom? Where is the hot air vented?

I've seen sooooo many mistakes that kill efficiency and opportunities missed to tweak things to save power and money.

One op I designed runs on a two Ton chiller and a compressorless chiller that takes advantage of cool temperatures to shed heat without running an AC compressor. It's been cooling 20 kW of grow op... and their main gripe so far is that the compressorless chiller gets things TOO cold sometimes!

That's right; just two Tons of water chilling is cooling a twenty thousand watt grow op.

IDGAF what the SEER rating is on the label; there is ALWAYS more that can be done to reduce per consumption and improve efficiency.
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
image.jpg So, I've made a few minor adjustments to my DIY DWC system for my future mothers. Ron Kleinman's "Bubble Buckets" setup is what I immolated. I first drilled 11/16" hole in the bottom of a spray painted, black, homer, 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot. I then used these couplings and connectors. We all know 1/4" tubing is used for most standard air pumps. However, I'm using 1/2" tubing for my drain/water level tubing. If you watch Ron's video on YouTube, then you will see he made a "custom air tube assembly" so that all the air goes from the 1/4" tubing to the 1/2" tubing to the bucket. I made my own out of the pieces you see here. Also, instead of rubber grommets and elbows, I used this male female adapter for the bottom of the bucket. Finally, I've added 1/2" half clamps for the 1/2" drain tubing to attach to the bucket so it is upright and secure. A rubber mat is also pictured, which is what I'll make my homemade rubber washer for the bottom of the bucket connector pieces. Teflon tape was used to wrap threaded pieces. I'll be plumbing 2 holes on each side of my next buckets so I can see my solution level without taking my air line out or have double bubbles. It's a very good system for mom's. Gonna be building out a DIY RDWC UC style for veg and flower rooms next.
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
Anyone have any links on where to buy the float valve assembly kit that is on the Current Culture H2O design? It's the one seen here. Can't find the right one with the adjusta-nut on it. Thanks!
 

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legallyflying

Well-Known Member
if youtr adding the air to the waterline (outside of the bucket) how are you going to ensure that the bubble flow up to the bucket?

I mean, it's kind of "neat" but to me it's a big waste of money and time and it makes things more complicated. More fittings = more chance for leaks..period.

Just make sure your air pump is sitting in a shelf. Because if your pump stops for any reason..what you will be "immolating" is having all your buckets drain on to the floor.

A little word to the wise...people that post utube grow videos are generally a bunch of choads. The real pros are too tired or dont want to share their secrets
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
if youtr adding the air to the waterline (outside of the bucket) how are you going to ensure that the bubble flow up to the bucket?

I mean, it's kind of "neat" but to me it's a big waste of money and time and it makes things more complicated. More fittings = more chance for leaks..period.

Just make sure your air pump is sitting in a shelf. Because if your pump stops for any reason..what you will be "immolating" is having all your buckets drain on to the floor.

A little word to the wise...people that post utube grow videos are generally a bunch of choads. The real pros are too tired or dont want to share their secrets
Not sure what you're asking about the flow of bubbles. This system works great! Even in the event of power loss, my assembly tube will not leak water as the tube extends just past the height of the bucket. And, the fittings are way cheaper than having to replace air stones or even buy them.

As for the seals; they're better than any bulkhead or Uniseal. These connections are so snug and super clean!
 

DubC_420

Active Member
Anyone have any links on where to buy the float valve assembly kit that is on the Current Culture H2O design? It's the one seen here. Can't find the right one with the adjusta-nut on it. Thanks!
Grainger is the best. They have the adjustable float ones too!!!!
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
image.jpg image.jpg I mainlined at the third node after the seventh node developed on the best of the two Animal Cookies. Also, I got 5 clones including the top in the DWC propagation dome I used to germinate. I've never used this for clones so we'll see if it works.
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
This Weekend's Project

3/4" PVC Trellis with Crossbar

25' - 3/4" pvc sched 40
4 - 3/4" Elbows
4 - 3/4" Tees
1 - 3/4" Cross
1 - Ratchet Cutter
1 - Sharpie
1 - Tape Measure
1 - 25 ct box of 1" tapping screws
8- 5/16" Eye Hooks
2 - Pair of SunGrip Ratchet Hangers
1 - Hydrofarm 3.5" Trellis Netting (5x15)


So, I need a 4 x 4 trellis to match my light footprint & the layout of my four bucket DIY RDWC UC system. This will be in my flower room under a 1000W Horti Super HPS. I am going to build 2 identical ones today, as I will be adding another light and system to another 4 x 4 space in the same room so I can stagger my flower period & reduce the harvest time by half once it's up & running. Perpetual is the only way to go if you have only a little space, limited man power, & the like. Anyways, a couple pointers to people out there wanting to build one of these:

First, match your netting up with your footprint. No one can do this for you. Think about Geometry class in Ninth Grade. I like the 3.5" netting, but they make it in 5", 6", 7", etc. It all depends on the size and divisible numbers. For this project, I need a 4 x 4 trellis to match the hood/reflector/bulb I'm using. Because that setup is optimum at those measurements, I chose to go with a total length of 49". This includes the 1.25" for each connector(90, T, & Cross). So, the midpoint was found(24.5") & the pvc was marked & cut with ratchet cutters. No glue is necessary because no water will flow through this. Also, I installed the cross piece because I have found in my experience that any trellis of this type over 2' tends to get stretched toward the middle once the huge colas start weighing it down. Another added bonus, each bucket in my system will have its own quadrant. Second, I marked 3.5" dots with my sharpie(*TIP: Most Sched 40 PVC has labels, barcodes, etc. printed on it; make sure these are on the bottom for a neat look before you mark your drill holes), drilled holes to match my screw, & installed the screws & net. Third, installed 4 eye hooks on the ceiling & the 4 corners of the trellis. Finally, SunGrip Ratchet Hangers are used to adjust the height and there you have it.
 

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HottyToddy

Active Member
Hope everyone is doing well this summer!! Anybody have a hard time keeping up working solo? I haven't posted here in a while because I've been so slammed rocking it. Here's the latest critical kush harvest. It's really good :weed:image.jpg image.jpg
 
Is a bubble bucket DWC? Dude you are biting A LOT of for your first grow.

Please for the love of fucking Christ, heed some of my advice. I started with 2 600's over ebb and flow tables and now I have a total of 42k watts in three locations. DWC in vertical bulb rooms and hempy in one of the smaller rooms (11k)


Anyways...
You ARE going to need a co2 system if it's sealed. So you also need a proper PPM controller.

You can probably squeek by with temps in the basement. Your going to want to run a Dehu at night to boost temps and keep humidity in check. Humidity will skyrocket when the lights go out in a sealed space.

Anyways...on to the more important things you need, don't go jizzzing in your pants about hoods and bulbs you need solid basic tools at this point
1. A GOOD PH meter. Blue labs have served me well
2. Ppm meter
3. A fucking good air pump.
Those Eco plus things are utter pieces of shit. They are loud, hot, and don't last. I have four of the 110L ones, you can have them just pay the shipping cost.
Pondmaster pumps!! Quiet, strong, not hot and wow..what a concept you can replace the parts when they wear out. Seriously. Quality shit there
4. Cheap air stones work fine. I have tried them ALL I settled on the 2" round ones (the grey ones). Plan to buy new stones every run. They just get clogged and it's not worth the hassle. We have tried boiling, bleaching, baking, blowing air while boiling.. Fuck it, just buy new ones. When you harvest 60k worth of bud, suddenly $200 for airstones doesn't seem so bad.

5. Run beneficials, run beneficials, run beneficials. End of story

6. By a light meter on eBay and use it.

7. Fuck T5 for vegging dude, get another 400 or better a 600 (you can buy $30 MH bulbs and drive them at 600. T5 are great for clones and baby plants. They LOVE that light..they just are not strong enough for anything over 14" tall

8. Always err on the side of under feeding. Always.

9. Read read and then read some more.

10 and lastly.. The only "boosters" I use are the following. I have always done side by side tests of thing to see how they work.

1. Sea green kelp extract. Foliar feed, add to tea before dumping in the Rez..Awesome stuff

2. Phosphoload. God I love me a little diaziminode and paclobuytrozol.

3. Liquid gold by dry flower products. It's a filmic acid spray and fuck it works so well. I spray every other day from about week 5 till week 8. Really helps out on weight.
I was going to do a nine by nine room with three budding lights how many watts should I run in my veg if I want three pounds
 
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