sorry I dont have 180 bucks at the moment maybe in the future but its just a 150w many people say if you keep a fan on it it will be fine as far as heat issue I figured how to put a sheet in front of the door and it will keep the light out plus I'm going to have a couple of fans. ,I have the perfect setup IMOhttp://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GL100LED-Spectrum-Growing/dp/B00FGG1HDM
i have one of these they do well the blue and red is balanced out nice so the plant stays short and squat .............i use it in a veggie tent then change them over to 1000w hid for flowering ( replacing those with a nice set of controllable leds but they would be way to much for u why i did not link it )
ok thats good i hope so think if i lst and scrog i could get some big yeilds??I think you'll get an oz at most, given the size limit.
think I can mainline this already? I think it might be too late for I have already topped and if I put the screen in then I can pull it off really and im reading threads where the hps can be kept cool with fans I figured if I got a intake lamp on the bulb and one from then inside blowing on it and one at the bottom for intake and one on the other side for exhaust I should be cool 2 intakes 1 exhaust should be straight right?I think you can do it... but i'd go with LED and mainline as early as possible (4 mains), and train them into a scrog, veg until screen completely full, then flip (and this strat would probably work best w/ fem seeds so you don't have to cull males, and can keep the entire op inside your box the whole time, instead of starting seedlings, taking cuttings, sexing them elsewhere, then filling the screen w/ females). It'll take more veg time, but i think you can totally do it... and i would recommend switching to a pair of cxa3070 (or even vero 29), but if you can't, just do what you can with what you got, and try to "micromanage" your micro box. But with any high heat lamp in that small space, i'd be worried about frying your canopy and causing heat stress related issues. Lamp to canopy distance might be a problem too, and you could bleach them (light poisoning). If you can control the heat from an hps in that small space, it'll work. And you might just yield more than you think.
You could hypothetically end up with a fat foot long cola in each corner, plus whatever else. If you go for it, minimize your expectations and do everything you can to control your environment, and it'll probably have satisfying results. But in such a small space, anything goes wrong and it'll be hard to save. One fem seed is all you'll really need for that space, and if you prune it right, you might not even need a screen. In that small space, a screen might be more of an obstruction than a benefit. I say top/train for 4 mains, aim them for the corners, don't let any wasted branches develop, and flip to flower as soon as possible.
I'm really unsure about whether positive or negative pressure is best for cooling a lamp, but i do know that if you want a scrubber to be effective, negative pressure is key, because positive will force unfiltered aromatic air out every crevice, before the scrubber can scrub it. Whether that's relevant in your situation, idk. If it's relevant, i'd go with 2 exhaust scrubbers (near the lamp) sucking heat away from the lamp, and only passive intake vents; that way, the only thing causing pressure change, is forcing air Out, which will naturally pull cool air in through a passive intake at the appropriate rate, thus "negative pressure." Or, you could run like a cool tube... and then a single exhaust scrubber and single passive intake.think I can mainline this already? I think it might be too late for I have already topped and if I put the screen in then I can pull it off really and im reading threads where the hps can be kept cool with fans I figured if I got a intake lamp on the bulb and one from then inside blowing on it and one at the bottom for intake and one on the other side for exhaust I should be cool 2 intakes 1 exhaust should be straight right?
my first grow was very similar. 3 plants one 150watt and a not light proof closet. got an oz a plant with little to no fertalizer, pretty airy but stoney bud.150w hps for two plants scrog'd lst
fox farm nutes
fox farm soil
cfl side light (if recommended)
37hx26wx18L stealth box
Think I can get some great bud and dense nugs and a good yeild like a oz or two
lol well smell isn't a issue so no scrubbing but I think wat I will do is have a exhausht on the lamp with two intakes in with one at the bottom and topI'm really unsure about whether positive or negative pressure is best for cooling a lamp, but i do know that if you want a scrubber to be effective, negative pressure is key, because positive will force unfiltered aromatic air out every crevice, before the scrubber can scrub it. Whether that's relevant in your situation, idk. If it's relevant, i'd go with 2 exhaust scrubbers (near the lamp) sucking heat away from the lamp, and only passive intake vents; that way, the only thing causing pressure change, is forcing air Out, which will naturally pull cool air in through a passive intake at the appropriate rate, thus "negative pressure." Or, you could run like a cool tube... and then a single exhaust scrubber and single passive intake.
As for mainlining, i think you can actually do it pretty early (1st or 2nd "real node" with "real leaves," or you can just "top thrice," in that you top the first time, as low/early as possible, then immediately top each of the resulting twin tops again (as soon as you see the new growth starting), and you'll have something like a 4-way shared apical dominance (probably not perfectly symmetrical, but close enough), each of which you can then train in different directions. I say "start early," because the stalk may stretch higher than you want your canopy to be, or higher than you may want a screen to be, etc (your lateral point or split node should be kept as low as possible, imo). However, you can also train downward, and then back up again. I didn't quite understand it at first either.
So... if you have a seedling that has already begun node stacking, and already has "real leaves," and looks healthy and not sick, you can probably safely top it and start the "mainlining" process. Some people like to wait longer and let it get nice and sturdy first, but... i think that's preference, and not entirely necessary, although you do want it to be established well enough first. Feel it out. You'll be okay.
Just give yourself time to really think about and investigate how to set it up so that all of your priority conditions can be sufficiently controlled (heat being #1; overheating = bad), and figure out what's the best way to accomplish that for your particular situation. ^^
well you sir give me hope did you scrog and lst..... ND I'm using ferts so maybe ill have denser buds?my first grow was very similar. 3 plants one 150watt and a not light proof closet. got an oz a plant with little to no fertalizer, pretty airy but stoney bud.
As far as mainline goes my babies are to old for that I have already topped and topped the new tops so essentially I have 4 heads should I top again? And start tying them down? Should I add a screen to thisI'm really unsure about whether positive or negative pressure is best for cooling a lamp, but i do know that if you want a scrubber to be effective, negative pressure is key, because positive will force unfiltered aromatic air out every crevice, before the scrubber can scrub it. Whether that's relevant in your situation, idk. If it's relevant, i'd go with 2 exhaust scrubbers (near the lamp) sucking heat away from the lamp, and only passive intake vents; that way, the only thing causing pressure change, is forcing air Out, which will naturally pull cool air in through a passive intake at the appropriate rate, thus "negative pressure." Or, you could run like a cool tube... and then a single exhaust scrubber and single passive intake.
As for mainlining, i think you can actually do it pretty early (1st or 2nd "real node" with "real leaves," or you can just "top thrice," in that you top the first time, as low/early as possible, then immediately top each of the resulting twin tops again (as soon as you see the new growth starting), and you'll have something like a 4-way shared apical dominance (probably not perfectly symmetrical, but close enough), each of which you can then train in different directions. I say "start early," because the stalk may stretch higher than you want your canopy to be, or higher than you may want a screen to be, etc (your lateral point or split node should be kept as low as possible, imo). However, you can also train downward, and then back up again. I didn't quite understand it at first either.
So... if you have a seedling that has already begun node stacking, and already has "real leaves," and looks healthy and not sick, you can probably safely top it and start the "mainlining" process. Some people like to wait longer and let it get nice and sturdy first, but... i think that's preference, and not entirely necessary, although you do want it to be established well enough first. Feel it out. You'll be okay.
Just give yourself time to really think about and investigate how to set it up so that all of your priority conditions can be sufficiently controlled (heat being #1; overheating = bad), and figure out what's the best way to accomplish that for your particular situation. ^^
SWEET ASSS IDEAL CLAPSSSS FOR YOU BRO maybe because Mary is playing my sweet musicWhen you get some practice, you could try vertical grow with cool tube vertically in the middle.