Thinking of a new light ..

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
its for read...and take ideas...:clap:

https://github.com/FernandoGarcia -
Ferduino aquarium controller
Available in Portuguese, English, Spanish and French.
Easy to customize.FREE
1 x http://imall.iteadstudio.com/display...120419006.html
1 x http://imall.iteadstudio.com/prototy...120717001.html
1 x http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mega-2560-AT...item19d582a06b
2 x http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1020
1 x http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16-Chann...item27c1368c78
more ideas...

http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/
jarduino-aquarium-controller

http://www.instructables.com/id/Creating-a-fully-automated-LED-growbox/
growbox

http://www.instructables.com/id/Backyard-Automated-Greenhouse/
Plantduino Greenhouse

http://gardenbot.org/about/
GardenBot

http://arduinogrc.blogspot.com.es/
Arduino Grow Room Controller

more ideas... on the typhon way...

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Typhon-Typhoon-LED-Controller-Typhon.htm

http://code.google.com/p/typhon-reef/

http://code.google.com/p/typhon-reef/source/browse/#svn/trunk/hardware/typhon
hardware

http://code.google.com/p/typhon-reef/source/browse/#svn/trunk/software
software

The code is for the basic version.
Steve's LEDs latest code is not publicly released.
We are able to provide you with the hex code, should you need to restore your Typhon to factory default firmware.

http://www.stevesleds.com/uploads/Typhon_LED_Controller_4114.pdf

...curious fan way......
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Pressurizing-Cooling-Fan-with-Power-Regulator-Pressurizing-Cooling-Fan-w-plug.htm

http://imall.iteadstudio.com/im130529001.html
[Bare PCB] Typhon Board

http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=storm-led-controller-2
storm-led-controller

http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=storm-x-led-controller
storm-x-led-controller

http://www.boostled.com/product_p/typhon.htm
Typhon LED Controller

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0055/9572/files/TyphonControllerManual.pdf
Typhon LED Controller Kit Manual

http://coralux.net/?p=213
development of a 0-10V PWM controller

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/321511-typhon-based-led-controller-on-the-cheap-seriously/
Typhon-based LED controller on the cheap (seriously)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=603658
2surplus's 6' New LED Build.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=183131
Calling all DIY LED "Junkies" - Your opinions wanted!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2310459&page=2
Has anyone made an LED driver based on LM3463 6 channel driver IC?

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=136148
DIY PCB's for DIY LED Systems.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=139167
Just built a DIY LED Controller

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=152852
built another DIY led driver!

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=120109
DIY PAR meter, Yeah you heard me

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1759758
DIY LED driver for reef lighting

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=519649
DIY "Knob Dimmer" for PWM based LED drivers.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=243562
A Cheap, Simple, Compact DIY LED Controller/Driver COMBO.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2222702
Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino

pardon if i hijack this thread its for your reads sds... i hope you understand me a litle bit...
W-O-W !!! I'll need a week or so to go through all that ...
But I really have to thank you very much for taking the time ,
to post all these idea-sources ...
Wow! ...:eyesmoke:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Why not just use the 7-segment display with a tactile push button to toggle through outputs, and use indicator led's and a faceplate to let the user know which number is being displayed? A buzzer of some sort can alert the user if any of the temperatures get to high.

Do you really need the LCD?

I really like the project (I'm way too lazy to apply myself like you do), but sometimes it seems like you include devices for devices sake.

(I guess this was already discussed? I have volatile memory and somebody turned me off)

Here's an example of what I mean (found on google images, not mine. I'm actually not sure what this thing is other than 4x7segments with a bunch of indicator leds.)


Listen (or better "read" ...LOL...)

Sometimes ,yes,I do use a device for a devices shake ....
But not that build ...
Let me explain...

To use 7-seg led numerical (or alphanumerical ) displays ,a special (at least one ) IC has to be used ...
For example a Decade Counter/ DDivider with decoded 7-seg display output ...The HF 4033

A small DIP(through-hole long' pointy' pins ) or even smaller SOP ( SMD flat pins ) IC ,that for every signal at it's
input ,it counts them in ONE 7-seg .( from 0 to 9 and it recycles or it signals the next HF4033+ 7-seg display combo ,to display a decade ....) ..So for every 7-seg used one at least IC is needed .....

To read a resistance value from a thermistor ,convert it into temperature and then display it on a 7-seg display :

-Way complex analog circuitry has to be used ...
-lots of components ,also
-Cost is high .
-Pcb making(for the circuitry ) is not going to be simple
(I've tried to DIY a frequency Counter with HF4033 and 7-seg displays ....Almost impossible to single-sided pcb ..
At least not in the way I wanted it to be ...With a microcontroller ? Piece of cake ! )


If I still use the Arduino ,either I'll have to multiplex the 7-seg displays together ...
(Way complex pcb )
or
can't have more than 1-2 7segs ....


So ..the solution is
a $5 nokia 5110 84x48 LCD display ..(the one utilised )
or
2x 8 / 2x16 lcd displays ...

Led displays also ,tend to consume x10 more energy than LCD displays ..
Not that it matters to the total energy consumption ,but driving those 7-segs ,it needs
another type of circuitry and power supply ,than a low power LCD driving circuit ...


In few words ...

Doable ,but way more expensive ,complex,space and time consuming ...
And ..It';s already working ...

My big problem will be how to epoxy the thermistors on the CXA's when there's that IDEAL array holder in the way ....
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I did not know that lcd displays are more power efficient than 7 segment displays, especially if the lcd is backlit.

With 7segment, you're only supposed to light up 1 of the 7seg digits at a time, scanning through each digit at about 1khz-3khz. We're talking 2-7 indicator leds being on at any given time.

For a 4 digit 7 segment array, you could just use 4+7 (+1 for the dots) outputs on the arduino and bitbang the scanning.

If the select lines are sourcing the leds,

1000
0100
0010
0001

If sinking, you'd scan this:

0111
1011
1101
1110

over and over. You only need 8 (7 segs + 1 dot) traces going to the 4x7seg array, and you don't need a hardware decoder for that either. The hardware decoder would simply allow you to use 3 arduino outputs instead of 8.

You could decode that 3-7 in software through a function (or macro).
 
Last edited:

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I did not know that lcd displays are more power efficient than 7 segment displays, especially if the lcd is backlit.

With 7segment, you're only supposed to light up 1 of the 7seg digits at a time, scanning through each digit at about 1khz-3khz. We're talking 2-7 indicator leds being on at any given time.

For a 4 digit 7 segment array, you could just use 4+7 (+1 for the dots) outputs on the arduino and bitbang the scanning.

If the select lines are sourcing the leds,

1000
0100
0010
0001

If sinking, you'd scan this:

0111
1011
1101
1110

over and over. You only need 8 (7 segs + 1 dot) traces going to the 4x7seg array, and you don't need a hardware decoder for that either. The hardware decoder would simply allow you to use 3 arduino outputs instead of 8.

You could decode that 3-7 in software through a function.
Hm..
Not a bad idea,at all ...
Still ....While I 've lots of 7-seg of different sizes and types ( scavenged from all sorts from old devices)...
I kinda like the all temp monitoring of the lcd ,the average temp and the amperage in one display ....
And it offers an option of updating / expanding the features ..
(another screen shown with a switch ,etc ...)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Ok ...Now ,I'll show you my basic idea of cooling this thing .....

In the case ,there's a 'second floor" thing ,a plate made of aluminium ,that the pcb(s) are supposed to be installed ...
It forms a 'chamber ' ( ~10 mm high) in combination with the bottom plate of the case ....

So ,before starting explaining ....
Try to understand for yourselves ,what is my idea ....
( 4x fans will have 4x 120mm Dia. openings ...The 'chamber' has 2x 120mm Dia openings,one over each heatsink's center ....Fins at the far sides that they do not show to ventilate ,they will have smaller openings to cool the led drivers ...But main airflow is guided towards the center fins ,the ones 'running' above the CXA's ..Case exaust grills are going to be covered/closed with epoxy and fiberglass cloth ...And the case is going to be sanded and painted white ,to reflect some light .)

Case :
P4211061.JPG




P4211063.JPG

P4211064.JPG


P4211065.JPG


A quick & rough 3D of the whole 'concept 'of cooling air path guidance and pressure/spped 'amplification'
(it's like squeezing the tip of a hose with your thump ...Speed of water increases (as pressure does )

4 x 120mm dia openings are blowing out air ,sucked from 2x same openings ,which air is coming from even smaller openings ...(fins )..

cooling path 1.jpg


cooling path 2.jpg

cooling path 3.jpg

cooling path 4.jpg

cooling path 5.jpg


cooling path 7.jpg

( all 3D models are fully scalled to the real sizes of components )
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And a custom 'shield' for arduino ,is soon going to be ready ...
(to ease the pre -utilisation tests and calibration of sensors / fan operation )
At an early " still non-etched printed pcb " stage ,still.....
P4211066.JPG
It's going to have everything what's needed on it ...

-input for the 15V power supply
-12V regulator ( LM7812 ) ,with Low pass filter on input and diode protection (for arduino powering )
-filtered analog inputs and the 5V vref of them ( ACS712 / thermistor inputs)
-PWM mosfet out ,directly to fans .
-SSR optoisolated output directly to relay .
-LCD display output

All ceramic caps and all of the diodes and resistors are SMD 1206...
Electrolytics (and a Tantalum) caps,IC's -4N33,LM7812,IRF540- and couple
of inductors are all through -hole components ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And the code ,used at the moment ....


//BASED ON the Extended STEINHART-HART EQUATION
// 1/T= A1+B1* ln (R/Rref) +C1 *ln^2 (R/Rref)+D1 *ln^3 (R/Rref)
//START CODE
//LIBRARIES
#include <LCD5110_3pin.h>
#include <math.h>
#include <TimerOne.h>
//LCD FONTS
extern uint8_t Normal[];
//PIN ASSIGNMENT
LCD5110 LCD(5,6,7);//LCD Pins: SCLK - MOSI- DC
#define SSR_PIN 10 // SOLID STATE RELAY OUTPUT SIGNAL PIN
#define FAN_PIN 9 // FAN SPEED CONTROL PWM OUTPUT SIGNAL PIN
#define SENSAMP_PIN A0 // ACS712 Low Current Sensor Board v14 INPUT PIN
#define SENSOR_D_PIN A2 // THERMISTOR INPUT D
#define SENSOR_C_PIN A3 // THERMISTOR INPUT C
#define SENSOR_B_PIN A4 // THERMISTOR INPUT B
#define SENSOR_A_PIN A5 // THERMISTOR INPUT A
//CONSTANTS
#define THR_NOM_RES 10000 // THERMISTOR NOM.RESISTANCE IN OHMS
#define TEMP_NOM 25 // THERMISTOR NOM. TEMPERATURE IN °C
#define kA1 0.003353832 // THERMISTOR A1 PARAMETER
#define kB1 0.0002569355 // THERMISTOR B1 PARAMETER
#define kC1 0.000002626311 // THERMISTOR C1 PARAMETER
#define kD1 0.000000675278 // THERMISTOR D1 PARAMETER
#define SAMPLE 10 // SAMPLES FOR AVERAGING SENSOR VALUES (DIGITAL LOW PASS NOISE FILTERING .DEFAULT=5)
#define SER_RES_A 10000 // SERIES RESISTOR IN OHMS FOR V.DIV. OF THERMISTOR A
#define SER_RES_B 10000 // SERIES RESISTOR IN OHMS FOR V.DIV. OF THERMISTOR B
#define SER_RES_C 10000 // SERIES RESISTOR IN OHMS FOR V.DIV. OF THERMISTOR C
#define SER_RES_D 10000 // SERIES RESISTOR IN OHMS FOR V.DIV. OF THERMISTOR D
//INTEGERS
int samples_A[SAMPLE];
int samples_B[SAMPLE];
int samples_C[SAMPLE];
int samples_D[SAMPLE];
int samples_CUR[SAMPLE];
//
//SET UP
//
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode( SSR_PIN,OUTPUT );
digitalWrite(SSR_PIN,LOW);
pinMode (FAN_PIN,OUTPUT );
//
// FAN PWM FREQUENCY SET .DEFAULT=25kHz (40)
Timer1.initialize(40); // PWM FREQ .DEFAULT=25kHz =40 usec { 1 SEC /0.00004 SEC = 25000 HZ }
//FAN WARM UP KICK-START
Timer1.pwm(FAN_PIN,768 ; // DEFAULT=768 = 75% DUTY CYCLE { (768*100) /1024 }
//
pinMode (SENSOR_A_PIN,INPUT);
pinMode (SENSOR_B_PIN,INPUT);
pinMode (SENSOR_C_PIN,INPUT);
pinMode (SENSOR_D_PIN,INPUT);
pinMode (SENSAMP_PIN,INPUT);
//
//LCD INITIALISING*SPLASH SCREEN
//
LCD.InitLCD();
LCD.setFont(Normal);
LCD.clrScr();
LCD.drawRoundRect (2,2,81,45);
LCD.print("SET:",CENTER,4);
LCD.print("TCmax:85~C",CENTER,12);
LCD.print("TCFFP:60~C",CENTER,20);
LCD.print("FPTL:42.2%",CENTER,28 ;
LCD.print("PWMF:25kHz",CENTER,36);
LCD.update();
delay(5000);
LCD.clrScr();
LCD.invert(true);
for (int i=0; i<17; i++)
{
LCD.drawCircle(41, 23, i*3);
LCD.update();
}
delay (1000);
}
//
//LOOP
//
void loop()
{
//
//THERMISTOR SENSOR SAMPLES AVERAGING
//
uint8_t i;
float average_A;
float average_B;
float average_C;
float average_D;
for (i=0; i< SAMPLE; i++)
{
samples_A[ i ] = analogRead(SENSOR_A_PIN);
delay(10);
samples_B [ i ] = analogRead(SENSOR_B_PIN);
delay(10);
samples_C [ i ] = analogRead(SENSOR_C_PIN);
delay(10);
samples_D [ i ]= analogRead(SENSOR_D_PIN);
delay(10);
}
average_A=0;
average_B=0;
average_C=0;
average_D=0;
for (i=0; i< SAMPLE; i++)
{
average_A += samples_A [ i ];
average_B += samples_B [ i ];
average_C += samples_C [ i ];
average_D += samples_D [ i ];
}
average_A /= SAMPLE;
average_B /= SAMPLE;
average_C /= SAMPLE;
average_D /= SAMPLE;
//
average_A = 1023 / average_A - 1;
average_A = SER_RES_A / average_A;
//
average_B = 1023 / average_B - 1;
average_B = SER_RES_B / average_B;
//
average_C = 1023 / average_C - 1;
average_C = SER_RES_C / average_C;
//
average_D = 1023 / average_D - 1;
average_D = SER_RES_D / average_D;
//
//STEINHART-HART EXTENDED CALC
//
float TC_A;
TC_A = average_A / THR_NOM_RES;
TC_A = log(TC_A);
TC_A =1/(kA1+(kB1*TC_A)+(kC1*TC_A*TC_A)+(kD1*TC_A*TC_A*TC_A));
TC_A =TC_A- 273.15;
float TC_B;
TC_B = average_B / THR_NOM_RES;
TC_B = log(TC_B);
TC_B =1/(kA1+(kB1*TC_B)+(kC1*TC_B*TC_B)+(kD1*TC_B*TC_B*TC_B));
TC_B =TC_B- 273.15;
float TC_C;
TC_C = average_C / THR_NOM_RES;
TC_C = log(TC_C);
TC_C =1/(kA1+(kB1*TC_C)+(kC1*TC_C*TC_C)+(kD1*TC_C*TC_C*TC_C));
TC_C =TC_C- 273.15;
float TC_D;
TC_D = average_D / THR_NOM_RES;
TC_D = log(TC_D);
TC_D =1/(kA1+(kB1*TC_D)+(kC1*TC_D*TC_D)+(kD1*TC_D*TC_D*TC_D));
TC_D =TC_D- 273.15;
//
//AVERAGING CASE TEMPERATURES
//
float TC_AV;
TC_AV = ( ( TC_A + TC_B + TC_C + TC_D ) / 4 );
//
//HALL (AMPERAGE) SENSOR SAMPLES AVERAGING & MAPPING
//
double average_CUR;
for (i=0; i< SAMPLE; i++)
{
samples_CUR= analogRead(SENSAMP_PIN);
delay(10);
}
average_CUR=0;
for (i=0; i< SAMPLE; i++)
{
average_CUR += samples_CUR;
}
average_CUR /= SAMPLE;
double CUR;
CUR=map( average_CUR,512,0,0,2560);
//
//LCD INTERFACE
//
LCD.clrScr();
LCD.invert(false);
LCD.setFont(Normal);
//
LCD.print("DRIV:",LEFT,0);
LCD.printNumI(CUR,36,0);
LCD.print("mA",72,0);
//
LCD.print("AVRG:",LEFT,8 ;
LCD.printNumF(TC_AV,2,36,8 ;
LCD.print("~C",72,8 ;
//
LCD.print("Tc-A:",LEFT,16);
LCD.printNumF(TC_A,2,36,16);
LCD.print("~C",72,16);
//
LCD.print("Tc-B:",LEFT,24);
LCD.printNumF(TC_B,2,36,24);
LCD.print("~C",72,24);
//
LCD.print("Tc-C:",LEFT,32);
LCD.printNumF(TC_C,2,36,32);
LCD.print("~C",72,32);
//
LCD.print("Tc-D:",LEFT,40);
LCD.printNumF(TC_D,2,36,40);
LCD.print("~C",72,40);
//
LCD.update();
Serial.print( "A0 read:");
Serial.println(average_CUR);
//
//THERMAL PROTECTION DIRECTIVES
//
if ( TC_A >= 85 || TC_B >= 85 || TC_C >= 85 || TC_D >= 85 )
{
digitalWrite(SSR_PIN,HIGH);
}
else
if ( TC_A < 85 && TC_B < 85 && TC_C < 85 && TC_D < 85 )
{
digitalWrite(SSR_PIN,LOW);
}
//
//FAN SPEED CONTROL DIRECTIVES
//
float SPDX;
SPDX= map( TC_AV,25,59,433,1022);
//
if ( TC_AV < 25 )
{
Timer1.setPwmDuty(FAN_PIN, 432 );
}
else
if ( TC_AV >= 25 && TC_AV < 60 )
{
Timer1.setPwmDuty(FAN_PIN, SPDX );
}
else
if ( TC_AV >= 60 )
{
Timer1.setPwmDuty(FAN_PIN, 1023);
}
delay(1000); // OPERATIONAL LOOP REFRESH RATE. DEFAULT= 1 Hz ( 1000 millsec )
}
//
//END CODE

//LCD5110_3pin.h ,is a library of my own ,based on a public 5110 library(free)
//designed to be used with both grounded , the SCE & Reset,pins of the display ..
 
Last edited:

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
yes ..
Will the ' not showing ' " bug" go away ?


Edit: no need ,it's fixed by another 'way' ....
But thanx ,anyway ..Good to know for the future ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The four thermistor inputs do not need any further calibration once you enter the corresponding
A1-B1-C1-D1 values ..(Even with a 3% precision thermistor ,the readings are +/- 0.8 C ,without any filtering ...
I excpect around +/- 0.5 C precision with hardware filtering / software averaging ...


The ACS712 breakout board needs calibration .
In case someone' takes ideas' from here :
A) connect the ACS712 break-out board with arduino.Leave the current sensing inputs,of the ACSD712 board
open/off/no current passing .
B ) Turn the Vref pot at midway/midpoint
C) Turn the gain pot fully clockwise (lowest gain setting @ x4.27)
D)power on Arduino
D)Open the serial screen at 115200 baud .
E) turn the Vref pot until it reads around 512 ( ~2.5 Volts) ...
F ) connect in series the current sensing inputs with a source of known constant current (i.e with a led driver- and some/ the leds of course ,as 'load' ....Connect also a multimeter in series and set to DC A at proper scale ( change to unfused if
A> 200mA )

Read the serial screen ...
For 1 A input ....
From 512 it should go around ....

0.185 V x 4.27 = 0.78995
0.79/5 *1023=161,634....

Noise =21`mV x 4.27=89,67mV

0.09/5*1023=18.4

Thus it should read either 512-161= 350,4 +/- 18.5

or

512+161 = 673,6 +/- 18.5

..Depending on the polarity ,the constant current circuit is connected to the ACS712 sensor ....

From those two you should keep the first one ....
(As the amperage detected increases,the output voltage is decreasing ...
To protect the Analog input of Arduino...In case it reads...More than ...x amperes ..
2.5 Vref + 185mV/ A x gain = output ......
In case of max limit of 5 A ....
2.5 + (0.185*5*4.27 -min gain !!!! )=6.449 Volts ...Arduino's input may be fried at a moment ...
If gain is more (*1V/A ) then the 7.5 V will fry the analog input of arduino ...)


At first case adjust the pot ,until serial reads ~306 ,9 +/- 18.5 ( 1.5 V )
We want for every ampere ,the Vout of ACS712 board to drop 1 Volt (range ~2500mA,2.5 -0 Volt )

Ready ,that whas it ,it's set ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Well ...
Most of work..(I think -not sure,though..)
It is going to be the 'heatsink-alum angles-alum plate-case ' work ...
Drilling ,sawing,filing,sanding,painting,etc..
Lot of work ,there ...

Can't hold my self ...
I tryed the paint ...(on a side ,only )
Along with some extra ' bits '...
P4211067.JPG
like the 'nature white ' ? I like it ,a lot ! (a creamy-vanilla-sugarish white ...not good shown at the pic )

One of the front hanging posts ( INOX ). The front handles ,along with two more are going to be "feet" ..
In place of handles ,two pairs of Anodised Ergal screws are going to be installed ...
 
Last edited:

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The Arduino Custom shield is ready ...

P4221068.JPG
bottom side of the shield (SMD side )...-Washed the flux residues with IPA ....(Isopropyl Alcohol )

P4221070.JPG

Which later was painted (with paint same as case's ) ,mainly to protect copper from oxidising ...

P4221072.JPG
Top side ....



P4221075.JPGShield on Arduino.With LCD & ACS712 board attached..Testing the thermistors ...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And here is another ,small 'bump' ....
P4221079.JPG

Well ..nothing that a bit of grinding won't solve ...
That nice bump has to be shaped a bit to fit ...
Just a tiny bit ...
Maybe even I'll manage to epoxy the thermistor on the holder ..
Not on the chip case...
It will only lightly press the TC point . ..
I might also add on the code a 2-3 C difference ,between TC point and thermistor...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I'm tired enough already ...
Not much time or courage to attend to the build ...

So small steps taken ...

P4231084.JPG
Checked the shield's build-in regulator (7812 ) for powering the arduino ,from the 15 VDC MeanWell CV PSU ..
(CV PSU: "MeanWell PS-45-15 " : 15VDC ,3A ,45 W ) ..
Changed the four TC's text to inverted ,also...


P4231085.JPG

Opened a 51mm Dia. opening ,for the LCD ...
(Really thick alum plate the front panel of the box ! )
A complementary circular piece of dark tinted Plexi ( PMMA : PolyMethyl Methacrylate ),will be epoxied in place ,as
protective and decorative screen prior to LCD ...
The current adjusting pot will be placed besides ,right sid -facing the front panel-e of the LCD .


P4231086.JPG

Applied a thin layer of Arctic Silver Therm.Epoxy ,to the thermistors ,for placing surface preparation
& protection ..( lame factory epoxied,but at least specified on the datasheet...)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
And the " AC side " main components :
P4231087.JPG

From left to right :

a) 'Yunpen' EMI filter case IEC socket, 6A 125/250 V~ 50/60Hz HighPowerFactor ,stainless steel case enclosed.
Notes: Case Earth / Ground

b) Ferrite rings

c) 'Kedu' heavy duty ,stainless steel,toggle switch, 20/15 A 125/277 V~ ( 18A 250V~ )
Notes: Gold plated screw bind posts .

d) 'E-T-A' 5000times resettable circuit breaker 6A 250V~

e) 'Comus' Industrial Mount Solid State Relay NormallyOpen ,25A 250 V~ ,3-32 VDC.

All of them ,installed at the back panel of the case.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Air vents/grills of the case were epoxy sealed ...

Alum angles were epoxied at the sides of the heatsinks ...
(Thet are going to be riveted also )
Forming " the heatsink modules" ...
P4241099.JPG

Lots of work here to be done ..( drilling,tapping,surface finising ,etc )


......
Still far from completion ...
But ..Just for the "taste" of it ...

P4241089.JPG
(handles will serve as hanging posts..A same pair will be places at the rear side ..And one larger pair at bottom ,serving as standing/protecting 'feet',except for pulling down /pushing up the fixture ...)


P4241090.JPG
I was lucky to have around a piece of dark tinted transparent PMMA ,with approx same thickness as the pront panel plate ...A bit of epoxy ,carefully applied and cleaned ....

And ....


P4241097.JPG


Looks like an ad from some High-End piece of Equip ment ....
LOL!
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Ok ....
Another detail...
In the datasheet of the chosen CC led driver(s) ,is specified in what ways dimming control is possible ...
The HLP-80H has two dimming inputs...( Dim+ & Dim - ) ..
Dimming can be done by three ways ...
a) Apply 0-10 VDC ,between Dim+ & Dim -
b) Send a PWM signal .
or
c ) Set a resistor between Dim+ & Dim - ..

I use a Pot ..
An adjustable value resistor ...

Meanwell specifies that for 100% of output current is achieved with a 100K resistor ...
50% with a 50 K and so on ....

100% = 1950mA for the -chosen model - HLP-80H-42 ....

So .....

For simult. dimming more than one driver the the resistor value should be ..
100K / N for 100% of output current ..
50K/N for 50% of output current ..
And so on ...
Where N = the number of drivers ....

For this case N=4
(4x HLP-80H-42 for 4x CXA3070s ....)

So ..for 100% output current = 100K/4 =25 K

A pot with max 25 K ,where all four drivers will be parallel connected ...( Dim+ & Dim - ) ..

But ...There has to be a minimum limit .a threshold ..
It can't go all the way down to 0 mA ...Or increase from 0 mA ! ..
Cree doesn't specify a min current limit for the CXA3070 ,but in most graphs related ,it shows
amperage more than ~300mA ...
So ...
I'll set a min limit of 350mA ....

350*100/1950= ~18% ...
350mA is the 18% of output current of the HLP-80H-42..
So for setting a min limit I would need a 18K res in series connected with the pot ..
(pot will never go to 0 .Min res value will be 18K ...)

For 4 drivers ...:
18K / 4 = 4.5 K ....

Well ...A pot on pot ...
A small 10K multiturn high precision Bourns ,becomes the
" Adjustable min current threshold ' setting pot ...
( 0- 40%...{40K/4 =10K } min output current adj.range )

P4241100.JPG

Detail...
But a rather important one ....
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Those Sunon MagLevs !
Awesome fans ,truly !
Mean Power !
Just imagine that ..
This light ...With 21.6 Watts of Fan power ( at12 VDC ),
it will suck more than 430 cubic feet of air per minute ,from four air inlets ('fin profile 'sides of heatsinks ) !!!

And that's on 12 V ...I don't know what happens up to the 15.4 VDC,that those fans can be over-driven..
Noise coud be an issue ...
I drove one of these fans at 15 VDC ..."Maglev " Magnetic levitation..
In short ,a metal disk behind the fan's rotor ,keeps the rotor "levitating" and rolling wild !..
http://www.sunonusa.com/pdf/VapoBearingMaglevTechnology.pdf
http://www.sunonusa.com/pdf/VapoBearingMaglevTechnology.pdf


Well ,I know for sure ,that once I powered the fan ,it almost flew away and I bet you that it can levitate ..
It pushes some serious amounts of air volume ..
No kiddin' ,about that !...
It sounded like a jet -fighter taking off ,though .....

PS: The quality of the fan ,is one of the best I've seen ,for the price !
Made of Glass Fiber fortified ABS polymer..
Dust-proof ,Oil-free...
Tough & durable fans ....
With raw power ....
 
Last edited:
Top