Weed is dried out...can Boveda Humidipaks fix it?

randybishop

Well-Known Member
I dried my weed by hanging in my tent, temp was 75 degrees and humidity 40%. The buds are really dry and the Hygrometer in mason jar says 40% humidity. I have read that there is no turning back after humidity gets below 40%, but can Boveda Humidipaks fix this? Can Boveda Humidipaks add moisture and restart the cure?
 

UncleReemis

Well-Known Member
I don't know jack shit about Boveda, but I've heard good things. I've also heard of people re-moisturizing bud and having success with improving the quality. I've never had to do that myself, but it stands to reason that it would work. Smoking bud that was dried too quickly or not cured correctly means the process didn't last long enough to finish itself. So I think resuming it this way should work, eh?
 

miccyj

Well-Known Member
I've tried this bit unfortunately it didn't restart the cure process, it got the buds back to where they were ok to smoke, but leaving them long term didn't improve them the way that a good long cure would. Give it a try, you might have better luck than me.
 

randybishop

Well-Known Member
Thanks ya'll.
The buds are not so dry that they are brittle that they crumble...I can squeeze them and they squish a bit.
Is there hope?
 

randybishop

Well-Known Member
UPDATE: Thanks to the Boveda paks the humidity is now 57%. Not sure if the buds are curing or if they can cure at this point cuz the humidity was so low.
 

blackforest

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I think you let them dry out too much. If you let the humidity of the bud when jarred get below ~52% humidity it will lose all/most smell and taste and be kinda harsh. The Boveda at this point will only get it wet, it won't help with the cure. The trick is to naturally get it where the humidity when jarred is about 58% then add your boveda packs. Depending on your ratio of packs/grams, the humidity will go up or down slightly. If they are too wet (when jarred humidity above 62%), instead of letting them air dry, I put them in brown paper bags then back into the jars after a little dry time. Paper bags work good because they let the buds dry more evenly. If you let the bud get too dry, it will fry the tips and can't dry properly because the buds will dry from the middle (stem) out to the tips.
Hope it helps, I really believe in the Boveda packs, just can't let the jarred bud get too dry first.
 
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qwizoking

Well-Known Member
answer is no..
the cure works by keeping the plant alive and maintaining gass transfer,which requires over a certain amount of moisture to function properly. it then dies.
it's broken down through this respiration and hydrolysis, which a dead plant that's remoistened simply won't perform
 

killemsoftly

Well-Known Member
answer is no..
the cure works by keeping the plant alive and maintaining gass transfer,which requires over a certain amount of moisture to function properly. it then dies.
it's broken down through this respiration and hydrolysis, which a dead plant that's remoistened simply won't perform
That's the best explanation i've ever heard. sounds like there is a chemical process that takes place and, in order for that to happen, rh must be in a range. I am a bit of a chemistry moron. Ok, I'm probably a tard.

Could you tell us a little bit more or direct me to a thread qwizo? The search function isn't that helpful.
Gracias if you have the time.
 

DCobeen

Well-Known Member
once the cure stops it stop. sounds like you need to learn to make hash. it never will be what you want it to be now. you can decarb it and make oil/butter or ice hash. i suggest ice hash.
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
mold of any type won't typically grow under 60% humidity. I keep my area about 50. you want it as moist as possible basically but still allow gas transfer, meaning jarring to slow the dry isn't beneficial.

I dry at or under 70° below low 60°s enzyme activity etc is slowed too much and the plant doesn't break down fast enough. over about 77-80 and lighter flavorful compounds are lost. if kept moist higher temps wil increase bacteria and decomposition, will yellow the bud..like tobacco. unlike tobacco thc is not a nitrate and fairly volatile .. don't know of any accurate threads about curing..
basically..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner high/taste
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a lower ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and
consistent moisture content, even slow burn
and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn

it needs to stay atleast 50-40% or it won't cure.

the terpenes require oxygen to cure, and dont depend on moisture at all. the flavor of the bud will still grow but the bud itself will be the same, hash is great on fresh/uncured material

Optimum cure length is 4 months... the flavor won't continue to improve, once converted it's done. like decarbing your weed, its eventually complete and yourjust degrading the product
 
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sacballa

Active Member
mold of any type won't typically grow under 60% humidity. I keep my area about 50. you want it as moist as possible basically but still allow gas transfer, meaning jarring to slow the dry isn't beneficial.

I dry at or under 70° below low 60°s enzyme activity etc is slowed too much and the plant doesn't break down fast enough. over about 77-80 and lighter flavorful compounds are lost. if kept moist higher temps wil increase bacteria and decomposition, will yellow the bud..like tobacco. unlike tobacco thc is not a nitrate and fairly volatile .. don't know of any accurate threads about curing..
basically..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner high/taste
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a lower ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and
consistent moisture content, even slow burn
and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn

it needs to stay atleast 50-40% or it won't cure.

the terpenes require oxygen to cure, and dont depend on moisture at all. the flavor of the bud will still grow but the bud itself will be the same, hash is great on fresh/uncured material

Optimum cure length is 4 months... the flavor won't continue to improve, once converted it's done. like decarbing your weed, its eventually complete and yourjust degrading the product
So 50-40% will still cure? Should I throw in some Boveda 62 to get up 62%? Should I still burp? In my 1st week in the jar.
 

LinguaPeel

Well-Known Member
So 50-40% will still cure? Should I throw in some Boveda 62 to get up 62%? Should I still burp? In my 1st week in the jar.
Sounds like your humidity dropped too fast, plant already knows it's emaciated. Or should I say the symbiotic microbes in the plant have been terminated (the main thing modern growers don't understand thanks to the advent of sterile hydro methods with artifical blueberry sweetners and all that crap that makes it impossible to get a feel for the plants natural cycle)

Adding moisture is an illusion for those who want to pretend its dank. The whole point of curing is to not let the plant ever know it's dead,so it can finish eating the starches and carbs, enzymatically converting them into alcohols etc. Thats why it makes me shake my head when I see people stripping their branches and trimming while wet. Vine ripen and keep the plant together and curing becomes very simple.

Brovida has no purpose in growing at all. You gotta control the climate with the size and area of your transpiration barrier, be it a shower stall a plastic tarp or the stickiness of tightly crowded weed itself holding the moisture in. Then you put the buds in a smaller space, crowd them more, add another layer of plastic until they go in jars. Gradual is they key to harvesting drying and curing.

Bone dry soil-grown Grape Hashplant: Sticky as fuck caked up and solid like a corn cob dipped in elmers glue and tar. Straight resinous dank that puts GG4 to shame will clear 50 years of black tobacco lung out in 3 hits. But i guess it wouldn't yield 12 pounds in 3 weeks so no one grows shit like that anymore. The stuff literally cured itself. Why would I wanna ad a variable like Brovida to the equation. Never read a hygrometer either. You just gotta have a feel for it. Numbers ain't the answer. Some of the best growers couldn't even read a tape measure.
 

sacballa

Active Member
Sounds like your humidity dropped too fast, plant already knows it's emaciated. Or should I say the symbiotic microbes in the plant have been terminated (the main thing modern growers don't understand thanks to the advent of sterile hydro methods with artifical blueberry sweetners and all that crap that makes it impossible to get a feel for the plants natural cycle)

Adding moisture is an illusion for those who want to pretend its dank. The whole point of curing is to not let the plant ever know it's dead,so it can finish eating the starches and carbs, enzymatically converting them into alcohols etc. Thats why it makes me shake my head when I see people stripping their branches and trimming while wet. Vine ripen and keep the plant together and curing becomes very simple.

Brovida has no purpose in growing at all. You gotta control the climate with the size and area of your transpiration barrier, be it a shower stall a plastic tarp or the stickiness of tightly crowded weed itself holding the moisture in. Then you put the buds in a smaller space, crowd them more, add another layer of plastic until they go in jars. Gradual is they key to harvesting drying and curing.

Bone dry soil-grown Grape Hashplant: Sticky as fuck caked up and solid like a corn cob dipped in elmers glue and tar. Straight resinous dank that puts GG4 to shame will clear 50 years of black tobacco lung out in 3 hits. But i guess it wouldn't yield 12 pounds in 3 weeks so no one grows shit like that anymore. The stuff literally cured itself. Why would I wanna ad a variable like Brovida to the equation. Never read a hygrometer either. You just gotta have a feel for it. Numbers ain't the answer. Some of the best growers couldn't even read a tape measure.
Not everybody can sniff the air and know the humidity. Most people need some sort of tools. LOL. Thanks for the reply you sound very knowledgeable.
 

hydra-glide

Well-Known Member
Use the 62RH Boveda packs. They'll re-hydrate dried weed, but as stated below, won't re-start a cure, is what I meant to say.
Don't try and re-hydrate dried-weed to cob. Re-hydrated weed will rot in that environment.
I'm cobbing all of my jars until I run out of corn husks. My jars are at RH 68%, and the buds are gummy when I'm handling them. Cobbing is the way to go for diffusing nasty taste from brown-rot sugar leaves. Turns them sweet as sugar. The weed I'm cobbing now is reducing my storage space by 90%, and that first cob I only cured for 5-days. The next cob coming up is 22g cured for 2-weeks. :peace:
 
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Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
once weed has dried out past a certain point, you might be able to soften it back up, but it will dry back out in about 2 minutes if you don't keep it in a sealed container. you can never "re-hydrate" it.....
i personally don't think you can re-start the curing process, either. once you let it get too dry, the chemical processes stop, and i don't think they restart with a little superficial hydration. if they haven't gone past the point of no return you can extend the drying period, and get a decent result, but once they hit that point, i don't think there's any turning back
 

Growman 36

New Member
mold of any type won't typically grow under 60% humidity. I keep my area about 50. you want it as moist as possible basically but still allow gas transfer, meaning jarring to slow the dry isn't beneficial.

I dry at or under 70° below low 60°s enzyme activity etc is slowed too much and the plant doesn't break down fast enough. over about 77-80 and lighter flavorful compounds are lost. if kept moist higher temps wil increase bacteria and decomposition, will yellow the bud..like tobacco. unlike tobacco thc is not a nitrate and fairly volatile .. don't know of any accurate threads about curing..
basically..
Reduction in Chlorophyll content, doesn't taste like smoking veggies
Reduction in plant starch content,and sugars, creating a smooth smoke that will just expand nicely in your lungs, won't even feel it go down
Reduction in nitrate levels,less carcinogenic, always good right and cleaner high/taste
polycyclic aromatization and oxidation of terpenoids altering the flavor profile more robust with a lower ppm sensory threshold , less perfumey even soapy or "green" from corresponding aldehydes and ketones
Reduction of and
consistent moisture content, even slow burn
and no smoldering or black ash unwilling to burn

it needs to stay atleast 50-40% or it won't cure.

the terpenes require oxygen to cure, and dont depend on moisture at all. the flavor of the bud will still grow but the bud itself will be the same, hash is great on fresh/uncured material

Optimum cure length is 4 months... the flavor won't continue to improve, once converted it's done. like decarbing your weed, its eventually complete and yourjus
I don't know jack shit about Boveda, but I've heard good things. I've also heard of people re-moisturizing bud and having success with improving the quality. I've never had to do that myself, but it stands to reason that it would work. Smoking bud that was dried too quickly or not cured correctly means the process didn't last long enough to finish itself. So I think resuming it this way should work, eh?
The marijuana is dry I think all comments welcome today is technically day 9 of the dry yesterday date I took the marijuana out of the dry net proceeded to cut all the buds from the stems let them fall into a cardboard box after I manicure everything I put a hydrometer Inside the Box on top of the buds today day 9 the hydrometer that sits in the container with the marijuana states 66 degrees Fahrenheit with 57% humidity inside the container does not have a cover it is just a cardboard box I also have a hydrometer in the same room on the floor that Hydro me to States 66° fahrenheit as well with 50% humidity in the room so there is a 7% difference between the room and the marijuana within the cardboard box that being said 80% of the marijuana when I squeeze it it bounces right back like a marshmallow other bud I can squeeze it and it's more solid it doesn't squish very much at all then there will be another bud in the same box that I can Squish and only rise back just a little bit now again within the container humidity is 57% today's day 9 do I put the marijuana in the mason jars and start the official curing process or should I wait for the hydrometer to read low 50s before I put the bud in a mason jar all input would be beneficial if I receive information inappropriate time frame
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
The marijuana is dry I think all comments welcome today is technically day 9 of the dry yesterday date I took the marijuana out of the dry net proceeded to cut all the buds from the stems let them fall into a cardboard box after I manicure everything I put a hydrometer Inside the Box on top of the buds today day 9 the hydrometer that sits in the container with the marijuana states 66 degrees Fahrenheit with 57% humidity inside the container does not have a cover it is just a cardboard box I also have a hydrometer in the same room on the floor that Hydro me to States 66° fahrenheit as well with 50% humidity in the room so there is a 7% difference between the room and the marijuana within the cardboard box that being said 80% of the marijuana when I squeeze it it bounces right back like a marshmallow other bud I can squeeze it and it's more solid it doesn't squish very much at all then there will be another bud in the same box that I can Squish and only rise back just a little bit now again within the container humidity is 57% today's day 9 do I put the marijuana in the mason jars and start the official curing process or should I wait for the hydrometer to read low 50s before I put the bud in a mason jar all input would be beneficial if I receive information inappropriate time frame
I would jar them now, and just keep an eye on the RH in the jars and burp as needed.
 

Growman 36

New Member
I would jar them now, and just keep an eye on the RH in the jars and burp as needed.
I put them in the jar I got three mason jars out of the one plant minus the slack half ounce we took out post dry with the hydrometer reeds 50% humidity with 66 degrees Fahrenheit within two of the mason jars the final and third mason jar reads 55% humidity with the same Fahrenheit 66° today right now is technically reading a good humidity should I leave it for the first day or so of jarring and then put the Bolivia packs in I always thought once you acquire desired RH you then put the Bolivian pack in but I've never achieved a 50% humidity before jarring I acquire the Mist humidifier which helped out big but yeah that's my question should I leave them without the Bolivia pack for the first week of being in the jar should I put it in right now because it does say 50% humidity
 
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