The Best god damned Axe ever !

heckler73

Well-Known Member
I've seen that 2nd vid before. The first log-splitter is actually slower than the Finnish Axe, and note that he jammed-up, too.
Pneumatics/Hydraulics don't impress me as much as the ingenuity behind the lever principle. Especially in consideration of power inputs on top of it all. ROEI is highest with the axe.
 

LIBERTYCHICKEN

Well-Known Member
The axe is a gimmick at best , an overpriced one at that

All it does is compensate for someone with no splitting technick

And the edge will never stand up to repeated sharpining , It could even create a dangerous ballance issue
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
All it does is compensate for someone with no splitting technick[sic]
So it allows people who haven't mastered the "art" of splitting timber an opportunity to split with the best?
And this is a problem? Ever hear of the phrase, "work smarter, not harder"? :lol:


And the edge will never stand up to repeated sharpining[sic] , It could even create a dangerous ballance[sic] issue
Uhhh, the ax works on lever principles; it is supposed to be "unbalanced". I'm not sure what you mean by not standing up to repeated sharpening. Could you elaborate on that point, perhaps?
 

LIBERTYCHICKEN

Well-Known Member
So it allows people who haven't mastered the "art" of splitting timber an opportunity to split with the best?
And this is a problem? Ever hear of the phrase, "work smarter, not harder"? :lol:



Uhhh, the ax works on lever principles; it is supposed to be "unbalanced". I'm not sure what you mean by not standing up to repeated sharpening. Could you elaborate on that point, perhaps?

" Art of splitting wood" more like common sense ,,, Ask anyone that's ever split a few cords of wood - You dont want to hit it at a 90 deg. angle , but more like 85-95 deg. to help avoid friction

the axe is unbalanced so as it hits the wood it cocks slightly to one side to help avoid friction - The same thing can be accomblished by proper technick and for more than 100$ cheaper

Since the axe is purposely unbalanced as it is , after repeated sharpings the ballance will fall further out of ballance , Since its designed to kick over to one side slightly on impact what was oringally slightly will become heaver and kick further possibly hitting off the wood and then .......
 

Hazydat620

Well-Known Member
" Art of splitting wood" more like common sense ,,, Ask anyone that's ever split a few cords of wood - You dont want to hit it at a 90 deg. angle , but more like 85-95 deg. to help avoid friction

the axe is unbalanced so as it hits the wood it cocks slightly to one side to help avoid friction - The same thing can be accomblished by proper technick and for more than 100$ cheaper

Since the axe is purposely unbalanced as it is , after repeated sharpings the ballance will fall further out of ballance , Since its designed to kick over to one side slightly on impact what was oringally slightly will become heaver and kick further possibly hitting off the wood and then .......
common sense would say that you don't use a axe to split wood, you use a splitting maul. A sharp blade is not needed when splitting wood. Amateurs, both of yahs, lol
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
I've cut wood many different ways in my life. And yes, when the trucks (note the pluralization) would roll in with the large cuts, I would have to use a wedge and hammer to start, an axe to further split, then a smaller hatchet to cut even finer pieces.
That's 3 different processes required to get some usable cooking/heating fuel.
You guys can do your "Paul Bunyan" routines, if you wish. Next time, I'm going with Science. :lol:
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
looks like it'd be hell on the wrists, twisting with every strike..
That's an interesting point, but I suspect the handle's composite structure will mitigate some of the shock, while the operator would have to adjust their grip slightly to accommodate the "twist".
Nevertheless, it is a point I didn't consider...I'd need to use it to make any judgment in that regard.


EDIT: I just found this on their webpage:
The Leveraxe is used just like an ordinary axe but with the difference that the handle should not be squeezed with full grip when the axe hits the wood. This loose grip on the handle allows for the rotational movement to happen and avoids straining hands.

Due to the gradual slowing of the axe via the rotational movement there is no such abrupt shock as with traditional axes. The energy is turned from a downward motion and deflected into a rotational motion, making the Leveraxe much more comfortable for your hands.
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
i'd have to try it, probably just have to get used to it.
Also, look more closely at where the head stops after the split. That flange keeps the head from crossing ~45deg when it stops. So the twist in the wrist is not even that large when the arms are fully extended (just pretend swing, and you'll see what I mean).
 
Top