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Old 06-16-2008, 09:11 PM
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Default Spraying Tonic water on plant
I've done a lot of reserch. and my favorite source is mr. green on youtube. and he was spraying carbonated water (tonic water) on his plants. i know im questioning him...lol but seriously.
love
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wishuponaweedplant View Post
I've done a lot of reserch. and my favorite source is mr. green on youtube. and he was spraying carbonated water (tonic water) on his plants. i know im questioning him...lol but seriously.
love
I use cheap, generic sparkling water. Outdoor its really not necessary. By the time you get a spray bottle of sparkling water to your grow it will have leaked out and lose its carb.
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:03 PM
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its for the co2 yeah?
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:10 PM
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its for the co2 yeah?
yea, but outdoor its useless.
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:29 AM
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what about using hydrogen peroxide....is there any benefits to this? or is that bad?
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:33 AM
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?? like hydro peroxide that you get at the drugmart that comes in a brown bottle?...
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:39 AM
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?? like hydro peroxide that you get at the drugmart that comes in a brown bottle?...


Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a water molecule with an extra atom of Oxygen attached (2H2O + O2 = 2H2O2). This extra Oxygen atom is quite easily detached from the water molecule and eagerly combines with any suitable substance that has the room for it. For example it will attack organic blood cells.

Any chemist’s shop will sell you some concentrated 35% Hydrogen Peroxide, which may be diluted with water to give a 3% solution for human use. It works by oxidising the chemical parts that are presenting as having a free space for the Oxygen atom.
When H2O2 comes in contact with these “impurities” it will give a reaction which causes it to fizz. This fizzing is the Oxygen atoms coming out of their bond with the water molecules and bubbling out of the solution. As gardeners, we can use this eagerness to break its’ bond to help keep our plants free from everyday pests.
In the same way as old organic blood cells are attacked and consumed by the fizzing action of the peroxide, so will any bacteria and small insects be destroyed by a solution of up to 5% H2O2. At this strength it is safe for human skin but lethal to most bugs.

Another advantage of the Peroxide breaking down is that it releases free Oxygen into the area. So if you were to add some to your nutrient tank the dissolved Oxygen being released around the root system not only kills any bad root material and bacteria, but also oxygenates the roots with the excess.
H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.



Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.


Last edited by eza82; 02-06-2009 at 03:18 AM..
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:46 AM
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bravo man....thanks!!
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Old 02-06-2009, 03:15 AM
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:31 PM
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Oxygen needs to get to the roots. Here's the "hydrogen peroxide" deal. Note that it says "FOOD GRADE" hydrogen peroxide.

O2 to the roots is a big concern, since the plant requires this for nutrients to be available, and to rid itself of toxins, etc. One of the easiest things to do is use food grade hydrogen peroxide in the water to increase the availability of oxygen in the water. H2O2 has an extra oxygen atom that will easily break away and can be used by the plant. Oxygen Plus is a plant food that contains 25% hydrogen peroxide and is perfect for this use.
Using a planting medium that allows for plenty of aeration is also really important. Be sure you have good drainage by using Perlite, sand, or gravel in your mix and at the bottom of pots. Don't use a medium that holds too much water, or you may significantly reduce the oxygen available to the plant. More on that in the section on hydroponics.
Aerating the water before watering is also a good idea. In the case of soil potted plants, use an airpump to aerate the water overnight before watering your plants, or put the water in a container with a cap and shake it up real good before giving to the plants.

SPRAYING PLANTS
As far as Spraying plants, below might be something of interest to you. Personally, I'm a bat guano lover! Mmmmm! Make sure you stop spraying about 2.5-3 weeks before harvest or you'll be saying Mmmmm also.

Folair feeding seems to be one of the easiest ways of increasing yield, growth speed, and quality in a well vented space, with or without elevated CO2 levels. Just prepare a tea of worm castings, fish emulsion, bat guano, or most any other plant food right for the job and feed in vegetative and early flowering stages. It is not recommended for late flowering, or you will be eating the sprayed-on material later. Stop foliar feeding 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Wash off the leaves with straight water every week to prevent clogging the stomata of the leaves. Feed daily or every other day.
Best times of day to Foliar feed are 7-10Am and after 5 in the evening. This is because the stomata on the underside of the leaves are open then. Also, the best temperature is about 72 degrees, and over 80, they may not be open at all. So find the cooler part of the day if it's hot, and the warmer part of the day if it's cold out. You may need to spray at 2AM if that's the coolest time available. The sprayer used should atomize the solution to a very fine mist; find your best sprayer and use it for this. Make sure the PH is between 7 and 6.2. Use baking soda to make the solution higher PH, and vinegar to make the solution lower PH. It's better to spray more often and use less, than to drench the plants infrequently. Use a wetting agent to prevent the water from beading up, and thereby burning the leaves as they act as small prisms.Make sure you don't spray a hot bulb; better yet, spray only when the bulb has cooled.
Perhaps the best foliar feeding includes using seltzer water and plant food at the same time. This way, CO2 and nutrients are feed directly to the leaves in the same spray.
Foliar feeding is recognized in most of the literature as being a good way to get nutrients to the plant later when nutrient lockup problems could start to reduce intake from the roots.
WARNING!: It is important to wash leaves that are harvested before they are dried, if you intend to eat them, since they may have nitrate salts on them.
NOTE: One grower who reviewed this document comments: "Fish emulsion smells. Bat guano could be highly unsanitary. Stick to the Rapid-Gro, MgSO4 (epsom salts), hydroponic trace element solution. Nitrate salts (The "N" in NPK) are unhealthy to smoke. Personally, I never foliar feed."
Above is a great comment, and there is great wisdom in an organic, non-toxic garden. Personally, I use only CO2 on my indoor hydroponic plants, and never folar feed. It simply does not seem to be necessary when using hydroponics.

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Last edited by NewGrow60sToker; 02-07-2009 at 11:27 AM..
 

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