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#1
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Hi all ... I'm using guano to feed my buds ... I make a tea using a heaping tablespoon per gallon .... I put the guano in a nylon stocking and let it set in the water over night ... then I feed the plants with it once a week or 10 ten days ... when ever I can do it on a dry day ...
... Is that going to be enough to get good yields? ![]()
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#2
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all depends on what kind of guano you are using....
High N, or high P??? As well as what kind of soil you are using. Common deficiencies can include Potassium, magnesium, and calcium.
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#3
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I'm using both kinds ... 10-1-1 and 1-10-1 ... I used pro-mix potting soil ...
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#4
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i find that high N guano works great for veg but the high P guano doesn't cut it for flowering so i switch to fox farm tiger bloom. It's totally organic as well but does 2-8-4 instead of 1-10-0.2
not enough potassium in guanos IMO
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#5
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.... Kelp meal makes a perfect supplement for potash (potassium)
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#6
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Quote:
GrowRebel... From your NPK numbers, I see you are using Fossilized Seabird Guano for your Bloom Fertilizer - Am I correct ? . When using Guanos - either Bat or Seabird for Flowering the key is timing. With all Organic Fertilizers you have the soluble numbers and the insoluble numbers. With 1-10-1 NPK, that means 1-10-1 will be available immediately when watered or mixed in. But High P Guanos always have 2 to 3 times the stated numbers in Total P. So, your 1-10-1, probably has a total of 2-20-2 up to 2-30-2 Total NPK. That is where the danger lies. . Lots of people keep pouring it on all through flowering, thinking more is better. With High P Guanos - feed them to your plants starting the last week of veggie growth, thru the first month of flowering - THEN STOP. . Otherwise you will push your soil pH out of limits, overload your soil with P, cause nute lockup and that will work against you. . During the last month of flowering, there should be a sufficient amounts of residual P from your watering / feeding to finish. The key was the timing, start early, stop early - coast to the finish line. . The first two weeks, of the last month of flowering, is a good time to water with molasses & worm castings tea - to keep Mary healthy. The last two weeks of flowering should be water only - unless a obvious deficiency shows it's ugly head. Considering the quality of your soil, that should not be an issue. . Just my 2 cents worth... Hope it helps... . Keep it Real... Organic.... . Last edited by Ohsogreen; 08-16-2008 at 10:29 PM.. |
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#7
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I am getting quite a bit of rain in this area ... not wash out ... but the ladies do get a little pale at times ... they recover after a few dry days, but it has been above average as far as rain this year ... will that be a factor in how much I use?
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#8
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Quote:
GrowRebel... If the area your plants are in, is receiving above average rainfall - the chances of ferts leaching out does go up. Since, you have said you've noticed some pale leaves at times - I'd double the molasses in your tea - one week - then back to normal the next. If that takes care of it, stick with it. If not, use the double molasses mix weekly - until the paleness greens up. . I would also surface dress, the crud from your tea. Scrape the soil around your plants - about 6 inches from the main stem - then mix in the crud - share it equally with all the plants. It will break down over time, adding additional P to your rootzone. That will help offset the P losses from leaching. . Hope this helps.... Keep it Real...Organic..... . |
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#9
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Quote:
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