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#1
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if i were to use molasses and woodash as an organic flowering ferts how much should i use ?
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#4
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as for the wood ash it usually has a high Ph depends on what the ash came from, acidy plants like pine trees, birches? or a not so acidy one. I wouldnt use paper ash from magazines or colored paper, too many toxic dyes and inks and acidy as hell.
The high PH, if it has one, can be helpful, like if your organic ferts breaking down are making you drop closer to 4, then the ash is like PH up sometimes. i used to just eyeball an ammount and i never threw off the PH too bad...live life on the edge
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#6
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the useable K leaches out really fast from ash also, but they might not need a hell of alot if they are outdoors in soil depending on your soil conditions and yah too much can throw the PH way off.
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Everything I say in these forums is pure fiction, I am a chronic liar and dilusional. How did I even end up here in the first place...where is my medication? .._..*..(''·.¸(''·.¸*¤*¸.·'´)¸.·'´)..*.=._.. »~:¤.·º'·. f r 3 s h .·´º·.¤:~« .._..*..(¸.·'´(¸.·'´*¤*''·.¸)''·.¸)..*.=._.. |
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#7
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Quote:
Kkkllol .... If you intend to water with this weekly - use one teaspoon of ash (hardwood is best) & one ounce of molasses per gallon of water. . Now, some people are going to say " Hey, well I use more ". They may, but you should not. The key with Organics is to feed low, slow & steady. . Big blasts of this or that - can cause Big Problems. By starting low, you can see how your plants are reacting. It's much easier to build up, instead of trying to detoxify a plant after you have blasted it. . Before you use this mix, check the pH of your soil. Then check it a full day after applying to see where your pH is. That way you will not throw you pH out of limits and cause nute lockout. . Keep it Real... Organic .... . Last edited by Ohsogreen; 08-19-2008 at 04:40 PM.. |
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#8
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| Tags |
| fert, flowering |
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