guano, molasses, kelp, worm castings..??????

You will need to inocculate, that is the largest problem I see with
Organics... People think they are trading quantity for quality, but
that only happens because they are not propetly developing their
live soils, you need micro organisms and biologicals and enzymes
to break down the Guano's, kelps, and meals for the plants, your
plant will take much longer to do it itself, resulting in weak growth.

Originally Posted by Shrubs First

you need micro organisms and biologicals and enzymes
to break down the Guano's, kelps, and meals for the plants, your
plant will take much longer to do it itself, resulting in weak growth.

Thats why a good soil is the best thing u can start with. All them things needed to make a good soil is in worm castings and or good compost. (not everything but the things listed above, biologicals, humics, fulvics, enzymes ect....)

Have you already picked up some of the things youve listed? If so, worm casting are a real mild fertilizer, called black gold by some, and it can be mixed with the soil. I believe the best ratio is 20 % castings and 80 % soil. A higher castings ratio wont necessarily cause fertilizer burn but it will inhibit root growth (on account of its consistency, similar to something like clay). As some have mentioned before, you could also make a tea from basically all things listed in the thread title. The idea behind brewing a tea is to soak all of the goodness away from those items and into your tea. Organic materials are teaming with microorganisms and those MO are very beneficial for your plants. This is because they eat nutrients out of the water and replace it with their excrement, which are much simpler and easier for plants to use. Molasses has been known to increase yield size (as it is a very good carbohydrate supplement) but it also feeds the microorganisms and having it present as you aerate your tea is never a bad thing.
Organics really are the way to go but things can get a little tricky. Different ratios and brew ingredients will be better for different strains and genetics, trial and error work best, have a little fun with it.

Originally Posted by univativegrower

The only beef I have with Earth Juice is that the flowering formula has NO N at all. If you don't beef up the formula with some added kelp, you will have yellow leaves by week 4 of flowering. Also, it is best to bubble it for 24 hours before you use it to create the proper bacteria. This is from a different blog, but a good Earth Juice use guide:

http://www.greenpassion.org/showthread.php?t=1889

you dont need N for flowering.

Originally Posted by cabrainmunda

you dont need N for flowering.

this thread is years old.

OF COURSE YOU NEED N FOR FLOWER ?! thats horrible info cab!



soil

wow you went back two years to make a misleading statement??

It should really read "you dont need N for late flowering"

I used to run PBP grow and bloom and would switch to EJ bloom the last 15 to 20 days for exactly this reason