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#1
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So I have made a few compost teas before, no probs. I always use a tbsp a gallon or so of molasses. The secret is air after that. The more the merrier, if any one was asking.
I am all out of molasses. Before I head out and get some I am wondering will any other source of sugar like carbohydrates work. Regualr sugar, pure cane sugar, the brown packets of sugar? I could use a two taco snak pak from jack in the box. They got sugar packets there, lol. Will a sugar syrup work? This is also an academic curiousity as I am no real hurry to make a compost tea. Altho, they are fun. I got a bag of steer manure, a bag of compost, and some myco. Any thioguhts/.
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#2
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Buried below, in red, might be your answer. Maybe. Basically is says there are other things and mentions I believe two, but I would have no idea of what amounts of them one would use.
“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates” Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic production Printed by permission of Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use: a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test). b. Soil moisture conditions. c. Sunlight intensity. d. Temperature. e. Wind f. Fruiting stage / load g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves] The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects. Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development & maturity. Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis) carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed. Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars. Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply. Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate produc- tion, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots. ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS: - MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products. - Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most effective. * In the soil it can: - Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants. - The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly feed the roots for continued productive growth. - This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow fashion while maintaining normal growth. -EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days. Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the induced fruit can mature.
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#4
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i hear honey can be supplemented for molasses but i have not tried personally
-cc
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