Well I mastered the secret finally of bacteria. As usual when it comes to mariujuana it came down to going big. Lol.

I took three aquarium air pumps and put a splitter on each hose. These are average size 30 gallon pumps. Bigger is better. These might even be 20 gallons as their is a bigger model I broke laying here.


So I have 6 hoses. I dont use airstones. Professional tea makers recomend medium ato large bubbles and I read the reason. Small bubbles are like scythes and will kill the bacteria and the fungi inside your teas.

So far as I understand it MJ prefers the bacteria being an annual and uses fungi as reserves of sorts. The soil food web is awesome and I am studying it now in some books written for the layman that rock. The "soil food web" by jeff lowefels is one.

SO after only 12 hours of bubbling I got a froth brewing. I added 1 tbsp of blackstrap a gallon. I am brewing three gallons.

It is bacteria laden by the froth you can tell. This bacteria came from spt and fresh wormcasts. Also a little steer manure I tossed in.

Previuolsy I had not been sure what I needed to get the froth as with some teas I got nothing. I have read quite a few posts where some do not get anything either. This will make lower fertlizer more productive and feed the plant quite well.

cool

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Also in addition to my BMO I throw in some more indo batguano. I am hoping for some big girls. I also topdress, I am a little over a month in flower and the I am happy.

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I just looked that book up in the library and low-and-behold they have it! Should be picking it up in the next week. Sounds like a really interesting read.

I've heard that temps and tea times go hand in hand. I bubble my tea in the attic which gets to be 85 degrees and within 20 hours their is froth on the top. Does froth mean that it's done? I had one go for too long and it REEKED, I dumped it.

the higher temps are good for bacteria production. the froth means it is done. The reek means it is now anerobic and is bad. To work past this I add a tbsp of blackstrap a day to keep it aerobic. That kept my last tea for a week frothy.

I am now going to read on as to how fungi help annuals. I use hydroguard now and love it, or at least rot has not been my prob.

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I'm going to stay tuned so keep filling us in.

To fill in.

Now I am mastering adding a little homemade myco fungi, ecto and endo but I am figuring that the mj plant might like to attract endo into its rhizosphere.

You see plant produce exudates from their roots that actually control what bacteria and fungi surrond it. They actually control what they want. While marijuana is an annual and most annuals love the bacteria more fungi play a role in their life to. From reading I am thinking it is a .8-1 fungi to bacteria ratio to a 1-1 fungi to bacteria ratio. Endo and ecto fungi are awesome in the root sone, or rhizosphere, as they form a bond either inside or outside the roots that feed the plant and make use of a larger area than the roots can by themselves to feed. Also they protect.

Mostly trees and larges shrubs, longer living plants, prefere ecto myco, but I have heard reports of both being at work here and other places.

I guess the best place to get a little ecto and endo fungi to add to my teas is the hydro shop. However I have read how to make my own.


I have got some compost and worm castings. I have read to add some oatmeal or some soy meal at a rate of a teaspoon to a cup of compost and then wet it. I have added some soy protein shake as I had nothing else. Supposedly if I keep it warm with a seed heat mat I will have a nice hairy fungi growth in a few days. This I can add as a topdressing or into the tea at the later stages of tea brewing.


It is best to add fungi later as they are delicate.

Fungi masses are huge and can really help a plant. I highly suggest them from my reading.

so that is what I am up to on this fine monday. lol.

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I have a good compost pile going now. Once it has cooked long enough I can add oat meal wet it and keep it in an outside open environment and my fungi will supposedly start to grow? or should it be in a covered damp environment with good light?

I put everything from sandwiches, fruits, veggies, leftovers from the night before and low sodium V8 in my compost pile turn it in the ground for a few weeks and then it will go to the turner drum I have mounted in a large recycle can with worms. Should I add the oats after the compost is complete?

I am thinking according this instruction manual that I am banking on that taking some compost after it is fully done and placing it in a container with no lid and no light in a cupboard or something with a seedling heat mat for warmth will be best. Add a tsp of oats to a cup of compost. Moisten. Leave it for a while. Either that or buy humbolt nutes myco madness or whatever variety yu like.

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josephine porter institue for applied biodynamics- get the catalog...order the inocculants, follow the directions...you'll have top of the line compost in a matter of months...I add all kinds of stuff in the pile to 'cook'- from kitchen scraps to stuff from the garden shop.. organic cow manure, 'organic' charcoal,etc. I make teas with the compost(stretches it out)...that stuff is beyond amazing!!! sometimes I hit the tea with azomtie and earth juice for good measure. I used to use a lot more coco coir,but more than 25% is a waste of space, and notable loss of vigour compared to mostly black dirt/compost.

is the froth really important? 'cause I don't get froth, I just let it go 3 or 4 days, bubbled for a few hous a day...the stuff is still PHENOMENAL!