hi folks

i'll make coco + worm casts + perlite mix and dolomite lime for 2tblspn for per gallon.


the Coir has 5.7-6.5 ph and 0.2 Ec .

but i think there is a something wrong.
what is the PH rate of dolomite lime ?

i found a dolomite lime in where i live and its ph rate is between 8.5 -10 (the rate is written on the label ).

but i read "dolomite lime should have neutral ph 7 " .

the dolomite i would use is normal ?

Yeah, bro.. you read some bad advice. The pH of the actual dolomite lime is around 9.0. What's more important is the pH in solution (which is what your roots experience..).

And, dolomite is dolomite everywhere --- Calcium + Magnesium + Carbonate in a ratio predetermined by Nature.

Dolomite in pure solution (just water + dolomite) produces a pH of 8.4, for very complex reasons I can't explain here. The more items you mix into the solution (ie. nutrients, humic acids, etc), the harder it is for the dolomite to reach that 8.4 pH -- it's the result of "competition" among the various chemicals in the solution. That's why it is such a great growing amendment -- it captures acids that could drop your pH, but because of that chemical competition thingie in solution, it can almost never overshoot your pH to the high side. Ideal soil pH for MJ is 6.5 -- a good soil mix will be right about there, and a couple tablespoons dolomite per gallon of soil will help keep it there.

thanks bro + rep

their are diferent kinds of dolomite lime. Dont use slaked or builders. Their ph is high. Plain reg uncooked lime is neutral. I found sveral passages that sya dolomite lime is neutral if it is the gaardeners variety while the other variety out there are extrmely alkline.

here is one passage.

A good way to stabilize soil is to use dolomite lime (calcium-magnesium carbonate). Dolomitic lime acts slowly and continuously, so soil will remain pH stable for a few months.
Using fine size dolomite lime is important, coarser grades can take a year or longer to work. You can find fine size dolomite lime at any well stocked garden supply center.
Dolomite lime has been used by gardeners as a pH stabilizer for many years. It has a pH that is neutral (7.0). When added to soil in the correct proportions, it will stabilize soil at a pH near 7.0.
When growing in containers, add one cup of fine dolomite lime to each cubic foot of soil. Mix the dry soil thoroughly with the dolomite lime, then lightly water it. After watering, re-mix it and wait for a day or two before checking the pH. When growing in an outdoor garden, follow the dolomite lime manufacturers instructions

here is another. IDK this is nly what i read. Their is another article I read in on an online encyclopodia that said neutral 7 for dolomite lime.

so idk i keeps my soil at 7 and I was using fish,
Its worth pointing out that what is sold as Dolomite lime is actually powdered dolomite rock with no heat treatment, therefore it is only neutral to very mildly alkaline. Dolomite will shift soil pH from acid to neutral, or from neutral to slightly alkaline, but not alkaline. For that you require slaked lime, which has been roasted at high temperature to drive off the acid carbon dioxide and leave the basic Calcium oxide. This is sold as builders lime, because when mixed into a paste it reabsorbs CO2 from the air and slowly sets to form limestone once more.
In many case dolomite is added to soil to provide magnesium to plants. Magnesium is an essential trace element, the chlorophyll molecule is based around a central magnesium atom.

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Good points... A deep chemistry lesson is probably more than what was asked for here, but I'll continue anyway.

The high alkalinity of some "limes" is due to the oxides you mention. By high, we're talking pH 10-11 or so. No "lime" is actually neutral -- they're all on the high pH side in pure form. But, how they act on pH in soil is what we're keyed in on.

Everyone will do well to realize the importance of names when dealing with what are essentially agricultural chemicals. "Lime" is a very general name that can mean several different calcium and magnesium carbonates and oxides, some good, some bad for plants. "Dolomite" is a specific name for calcium-magnesium carbonate; "hydrated lime" refers specifically to the calcium oxide you mention. The latter is very hazardous for use by growers, as it can drive very radical upward pH shifts. It can be used in soil, but you better know EXACTLY what you're doing. Carbonate-based limes are much gentler and forgiving of mixing errors.

Like you said, small-pelletized dolomite is the way to go when creating a soil mix. If an upward pH adjustment is needed in the middle of a grow, surfacted calcium carbonate (no magnesium), also sold as ''lawn lime", is faster acting but still safe from "overshoot" on pH, and is also a good thing to have in your supply cabinet.

hey guys, thanks for guides.
it is very important point mate.

slaked lime =hydrated lime ?

And it is the dolomite lime i could find easily :


and its ph is between 8 and 10.

they said to me it is agricultural lime . is it dolomite lime that i want ?

also grain of the that dolomite lime is 1.0 millimeter.

is it ok ?

Yes... slaked is the same as hydrated.

As I said, "dolomite" is a very specific compound. I would find a product that specifically calls itself that. Other "limes" are likely to be the hydrated variety..

The other option which should be easy to find is "lawn lime" -- usually sold in a bag with a lawn picture on the front, and the analysis should be predominantly calcium carbonate (CaCO3) -- like 95%.

i bought that product.it is very cheap !
110 lbs is only 6 bucks

i'll use it as 2 tbsp for per gallon. i am trying to do my best .