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How To Grow Marijuana in the
The Grow Room forums; Welcome to my article on the basics of growing weed!
I have been growing for 15 years off and on. ...
How To Grow Marijuana
Welcome to my article on the basics of growing weed!
I have been growing for 15 years off and on. Some of my techniques may be out dated so if some of you grow nerds see something wrong with my techniques please send me a pm and we can fix it. I would like to make sure we get the best knowledge to the people. Im sure I left a few things out but...
I cant go into every detail but these are the basics...
Well it looks like the server crashed my pictures. Im gonna work on rebuilding this thread over the next few weeks. Its been about 7years since I wrote this. I have picked up a few more tricks over the years. I will add a few. Also I will try to go into a little more detail to help answer the many pm's I have recieved. Stay tuned.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-11-2014 at 10:10 PM.
If you want some killer pot you have to start out with killer seeds. You will want to do a little research before you pick out the strain you are going to grow. Some strains like outdoors and lots of light and some like indoors under lower light conditions. I like indoors because you can control the plants environment. Plus you don't have to worry about pest and critters eating your plants. Well not totally but your chances are better than the open outdoors.
The seed is where it all begins. You cant just take any old pot seed and expect it to grow bad ass weed. Its all in the genetics. To grow bad ass weed you have to have bad ass seeds.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-11-2014 at 10:43 PM.
The best way I have found to germinate is using a paper towel, tap water and a ziplock bag. I place my seeds on a paper towel. Wrap them up and wet the towel. Not too wet. But good and moist. If your not too sure how moist just wrap the towel and place under the tap and wet 3/4 of the towel. Let the rest soak in. Once folded and wet place it in the ziplock and seel the bag. It doesnt have to be a lot but leave some air in the bag. Place in a warm (75-85f), dark place. Wait 3-5 days and check for roots. As soon as you see a root you can plant it. This is a pretty much fool proof way to germinate. If you add too much water the seed can rot. You want to use a quality paper towel. Not tissue paper. It seems the thicker the paper the better it works. I usually grab a blue shop towel but hosehold towels work fine as you can see im using below. Ok so its been 3 days now. Looking at the last pic you can see the roots growing out of the seed. This may have been 4 days. I usually like to plant them while the root is smaller but its gonna be ok.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-15-2014 at 06:38 PM.
Reason: to update with photo
Deciding what to grow in is a big decision to make.
Soil- I would recomend soil for new growers because it is the most forgiving medium. You want a soil rich in nutrients. Unless its a seedling. Normally even the best soils need added nutrients. I dont add anything but water untill the plant starts to lighten in color. Watch out for soils with time release nutrients. Its not terrible but think about it. You may wonder why your feeding less and the plant is still burning. Also watch out for soils with extreem ph. 6-7ph is what you want. Some miracle grow has ph of like 5. Way too acidic. I would never use mg anyways. I look for more of an organic blend. I like fox farm ocean forest. Its hot, it will burn small (6") plants. They usually bounce back in a few days so dont worry if it happens. They have a red bag thats not as hot and a seed starter called light warrior. You wont find any of these at home depot or lowes. Prolly not even the local nusery. You will have to find a hydroponic or organic store. If you cant find it local, order it online. Or try your luck at home depot. I believe they sell scotts. Its ok but not the greatest for this application. Organic soil is going to produce the best flavors. The downfalls are it attracts bugs and its a pain to dispose of.
Soiless- Most advanced growers go this route. The soiless products usually contain zero nutrients. That way the grower knows exactly whats in their medium. Coco fiber is a common one. People either love it or hate it. Coco holds a ton of water and thats why I hate it. I prefer the sphagnum moss. Its light and hold a good amount of water. Closer to real soil than coco. Pro mix, bcuzz and sunshine are some examples of sphagnum moss. These are usually mixed with perlite and vermiculite. You will need to use a hydroponic nutrient since there will be no micro/macro nutrients in the soiless products.
Rockwool- This is a medium made from volcanic rock spun into a fiber. It looks like fiberglass and comes in many forms. Sugar cubes, small cubes, large cubes and 3' slabs. I like rockwool for cloning. I use 1" cubes to start and then I can go soil or hydro. Rockwool holds alot of water be carefull watering. Wait untill the rockwool is close to dry before rewatering. Rockwool also works well for nft systems. Basically a constant drip of cool airated water. Thats more of an advanced system that would require a special timer that turns on/off in seconds. Stick with a passive system if your just starting out.
Hydroton- This is one of my favorites. Its volcanic rock balls with a clay outer surface. Hydroton is another love/hate medium. For starters it holds very little water and needs to be watered every 3-6 hours. Works good in almost all hydroponic systems. Its a pain to clean them but they are reusable. The biggest problem is they like to roll around and can get everywhere.
Water- Aeroponics and deepwater cultivation (dwc) fall into this catagory. Basically you have no medium and the roots are either suspended in the air with water misting them(aero) or completely submerged in airated water (dwc).
These hydro techniques are for more advanced growers. They are both temperature sensitive and when things go wrong they go fast. On the other hand... they grow real fast too.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-15-2014 at 06:52 PM.
Planting the seed
Planting the seed
Once you figure out what medium to use we can go ahead transplant into a seeding soil or rockwool cubes. I like to use rockwool for clones. And soil for seeds. I use plastic cups filled with seeding soil to plant in. Poke/cut holes in the bottom of the cup for drainage. Take your seed and bury it a half inch deep in the soil. Water it in lightly. You want to put your seeds under light as soon as you plant them. I use t5 fluorescent lights to start my seeds/clones. Shop lights(t12 fluorescents) work good also at about 1-3" away. Im using a couple t5 bulbs 3" away. You want a light strong enough so the seeds dont stretch but not too strong where it could burn it. This is the most fragile time of the plants life. It needs humidity but not too much. Around 60-80% is good. Too much it molds and dies. Not enough and it dries out and dies. Keep temps around 80-85f. If the new seedling stretches too much you can plant it deeper when you transplant.
I fill the cup with soil.
Then I poke about a half inch deep hole in the soil.
I place 1 seed in the hole root down if possible.
Then I gently cover it up. Make sure you water it in. Always water anytime you transplant. I used peat cups in the picture. Started out some shoreline seeds. 3 days old.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-23-2014 at 02:11 AM.
I strongly suggest using a combination of cool white and warm white florescent bulbs for growing your newly hatched plants. Place the lights about an inch away from the lights. Its ok if the plant grows into and touches the light a little since florescents don't get very hot. You will be fine. Just try to keep an average of one inch away. In less than a week you should see the roots working their way to the bottom of the cup. After this stage you can upgrade pots. I would suggest a gallon pot for your next transplant. You can continue using the florescent bulbs but they really don't put off enough light for fast growth. Compact florescent bulbs (cfl's) work good too. You will want a bunch of them . T5 bulbs are the way to go. They are the brightest of fluorescent bulbs.
I like to use mh (metal halide) lights for my vegetative cycle. They emit a lot of the blue spectrum which the plant likes for root, stem and leaf growth. Depending on the size of your garden will determine what wattage you should use. I do it big so I use 1000 watt bulbs. They have smaller bulbs. Your plant will love this light. The me bulb has ultra violet light that the hps doesn't have. The plant ends up stretching for the uv light. That's why growers usually veg with an mh bulb.
Hps (high pressure sodium) bulbs are like mh lights but they put out a lot of red light. The plant likes this light when flowering. It also is a little bit brighter than a mh light of the same wattage. A 1000 watt mh puts out around 80,000 lumens and the hps put out about 125,000 lumens. And yes brighter is better. These lights are not cheap and if you can only afford one then just get the hps light.
The mh and hps lights (High intensity discharge) put out lots of heat. You will need a good ventilation system or a good a/c to keep the room from getting too hot. Some light hoods have built in vents you can hook up an a/c duct to exhaust the heat. Another thing that should be addressed here is a light mover. I talked my friend into buying one for his crop and he yielded 3 times more than normal. We use the light tracks that go back and forth only 2 feet max for best results. They also make sun circles that twist in a circle. Either way you will get the whole crop good light instead of just a few plants directly under the light with a stationary light.
For a stationary light you will want to keep it at least 14-24 inches away from the tops of your plants. With a track you can lower the lights to 12 inches or less. With the hood we use we can touch the tops of the plants with the light hood without burning the plant. These cool tube hoods are not cheap but they seem superior to everything else I have used. See pic. But a good rule of thumb is to place your hand under the light and if it burns your hand it will burn your plant.
Here are some florescent tubes.
A metal halide bulb.
A high pressure sodium bulb.
The light mover.
Last edited by Widow Maker; 02-23-2014 at 01:56 AM.
Reason: updated with photos
Ok so we need to control our ph in our nutrient solution/ medium for healthy plant growth and good nutrient absorption. Weed likes a slightly acidic medium. For soil plants I keep my ph around 6.2-6.8. For hydroponics I keep a lower ph of 5.5- 6.5.
So how do I figure what my ph is? Its simple, buy a ph meter. Duh. Mine is a cheap digital meter that cost me $75. Mine is for water but they sell them for soil too. They can get expensive into the $300 range. If your tight on cash you can also buy ph drops. Its been a while but I think they are less than $10. So now you got your meter and need to change your ph. I go to the local hydroponic store and buy a bottle of ph up and ph down. Makes things real easy to adjust. You can also use baking soda to go up and vinegar to go down.
I stole this off my ph up bottle.
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