THINK YOU KNOW EVERYTHING? then help me pleasee :)

im new at this . and do need help , i need the following questions asked. below.

im using 18inch 35w and 40 w flourescent tubes .
the ones that go in the fish tank.



HOW MANY LUMENS should one plant need?

i have t-12's too . but shouldnt i wait to use those , cause those have two 40watt tubes.

HOW BIG SHOULD MY SPACE BE?


Do i need something to REFLECT LIGHT?

at this point and stuff does it need to have air circulation , or can i close my closet door??

whats the temperture suppose to be for the plant to poke out up to soil.


help? thank you. just questions im thinking.

right now its sprouted , but hasnt reached out of soil , but im not messing with it , im letting nature do its thing , and on the 18/6 light cycle.


miggy

What about us guys who just know alot? There are more of us than guys who know everything.

You should have done some reading by now to figure all that stuff out.
Watch this... it's an hour long, teaches you some basic stuff about setting up a grow room.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=i+grow+chronic&search_type=&aq=0&oq=I+grow+

I would suggest going through it like a lecture in that you could take notes of important things and keep a "grow journal"... mark down what the humidity is, etc..
that's for hydro growing.

Jose Cervantes did a series that relates more to dirt growing here's his series

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jorge+cervanes&search_type=&aq=f

That way your questions will be answered in entirety and likely give you answers to ones you didn't think to ask.

That's why you'll get alot of people telling you to go and do some research first before asking those type of general ?'s. For two reasons (at least) that I can think of. #1, it's pretty basic info that's been covered over and over and will be covered over and over again, and really easy for you to find and learn the basics.
2, Once you have the basics and understanding down, you can ask more informed ?'s.. like I have my Ph at 5.9 in a hydro set up .. is that too high?
once you watch these videos.. you come and tell me the answer to that.

Don't concern yourself with lumens and get drawn into that whole thing. Lumens are the color of the light you are using and they are only a reference as to how humans see light, not how intense the light is from the bulb. when you hear people say "6500 lumens", it's a color of light... has nothing to do with plants..

Basically you want one "cool white" and one "warm white" light for veg. Those are within the spectrum range that the plants can use. (6500K and 2700K I believe).

How big should your space be? How big do you want it? how many plants do you want to do? you can grow in an old CPU tower, or designate a room just for growing.. you tell us what you want to accomplish and I'm sure you can get some input. I would say a closet would be sufficient for you if you are growing out a few plants.

You don't "need" something to reflect light, paint the closet with FLAT WHITE paint if you can't or don't want to mess with Mylar (the reflective stuff) for just now.

Plants germinating should be kept warm. I usually keep mine in the cupboard above the fridge or the one above the stove and leave the light on over the stove, makes it nice and warm and dark for them.
(you can have them under lights before they break the surface for the soil so what you are doing is fine for them)

Air circulation is always important. I'll look it up, a friend of mine Grizzly Adams, (if you read this grizz, post the link if I can't find it?) came up with a great idea for dealing with the issue of venting in a closet, I can't remember exactly how he set it up, but it's pretty slick without wrecking your door.

The ideal temps, and humidity, and how much to water, and how to mix your soil (if you plan to go soil), proper PH levels for your water, and soil will be gone over in those vid's I posted links for.

Good luck and I hope that helped at least get you on the right path.

ok thanks man . ill look into it.

cowell pretty much said it all-

id also ditch those t12's and get some HO t5's... there more better
if it was me, id have all my lights on it... because its not the lights that make it flower but the light cycle.
mixed spectrum = good for plants, the sun spectrum shifts during the day, light is more red as the sun sinks lower to the horizon, so its not a bad thing to have low and high temp color ratings on your plants at all times. plus the extra light will keep the plant from stretching too far, the only real concern would be heat buildup, however since your using flouro's i think that would not be an issue.

okayy thanks . ill look and see about the t-12's.

im new but i catch on real quick

Set up the grow room before bringing in any plants. Construction requires space and planning. Once the grow room is set up and totally operational, the room will be ready for plants.Step One:Choose an out-of-the-way space with little or no traffic. A corner in the basement or a spare bedroom is perfect. A 1,000-watt HID, properly set up, will efficiently illuminate up to a 6 x 6-foot room. The ceiling should be at least 5 feet high. Keep in mind that plants are set up about one foot off the ground in containers and the lamp needs about a foot of space to hang from the ceiling. This leaves only three feet of space for plants to grow. If forced to grow in an attic or basement with a low 4-foot ceiling, much can be done to compensate for the loss of height, including cloning, bending, pruning and using 400-watt lamps.Step Two:Enclose the room, if not already enclosed. Remove everything that does not pertain to the garden. Furniture and especially drapes and curtains may harbor fungi. An enclosed room allows easy, precise control of everything and everyone that enters, exits and who and what goes on inside. For most growers, enclosing the grow room is simply a matter of tacking up some sheet rock in the basement or attic and painting it flat white. Make sure no light is visible from outside. If covering a window, do so discretely so that it is not boarded up. Insulate windows and walls so a tale-tell heat signature does not escape. Often basement windows are painted to look like the foundation. Place some stuff – books, personal effects, household goods, etc. – in front of the window and build a box around the things so that a natural scene is seen from the outside. At night, bright light leaking from a crack in an uncovered window is like a beacon to curious neighbors or bandits.Step Three:Cover walls, ceiling, floor everything with a highly reflective, material like flat white paint or whitewash. The more reflection, the more light energy that is available to plants. Good reflective light will allow effective coverage of a HID lamp to increase from 10 to 20 percent, just by putting a few dollars worth of paint on the walls. Reflective white Visqueen® plastic is inexpensive and protects walls and floors.A vent fan and an oscillating circulation fan are essential to keep a healthy environment.Step Four:See "Setting Up the Vent Fan" in Chapter Six. Constant air circulation and a supply of fresh air are essential and often inadequate. There should be at least one fresh air vent in a 10 x l0-foot room. Vents can be an open door, window or duct vented to the outside. An exhaust fan vented outdoors, pulling new fresh air through an open door usually creates an adequate flow of air. An oscillating fan works well for circulation. When installing such a fan, make sure it is not set in a fixed position and blows too hard on tender plants. It could cause windburn or in the case of young seedlings and clones, dry them out. If the room contains a heat vent, it may be opened to supply extra heat or air circulation.Step Five:The larger your garden gets, the more water it will need. A 10 x10-foot garden could use more than 50 gallons a week. Carrying water is hard regular work. One gallon of water weighs 8 pounds, 50 x 8 = 400 pounds of water a week! It is much easier to run in a hose with an on/off valve or install a hose bib in the room than to schlep water. A 3-foot watering wand attached to the hose on/off valve makes watering easier and saves branches from being broken when watering in dense foliage. Hook the hose up to a hot and cold water source so the temperature is easy to regulate. Step Six:Ideally the floor should be concrete or a smooth surface that can be swept and washed down. A floor drain is very handy. In grow rooms with carpet or wood floors, a large, white, painter's dropcloth or thick white Visqueen® plastic, will protect floors from moisture. Trays placed beneath each container add protection and convenience.Step Seven:Mount a hook strong enough to support 30 pounds for each lamp. Attach an adjustable chain or cord and pulley between the ceiling hook and the lamp fixture. The adjustable connection makes it easy to keep the lamp at the proper distance from plants and up out of the way during maintenance.Step Eight:There are some tools an indoor gardener must have and a few extra tools that make indoor horticulture much more precise and cost effective. The extra tools help make the garden so efficient that they pay for themselves in a few weeks. Secure all the tools before bringing plants into the room. If the tools are there when needed, chances are they will be put to use. A good example is a hygrometer. If plants show signs of slow, sickly growth, due to high humidity, most growers will not notice the exact cause right away. They will wait and guess, wait and guess and maybe figure it out before a fungus attacks and the plant dies. When a hygrometer is installed before plants are in the grow room, the horticulturist will know from the start when the humidity is too high and causing sickly growth.Step Nine:Move seedlings and rooted clones into room. Huddle them closely together under the lamp. Make sure the HID is not so close to small plants that it burns their leaves. Move 400-watt lamps 18 inches above seedlings and clones. Place a 600-watt lamp 24 inches away and a 1000-watt lamp 30 inches away. Check the distance daily. Hang a precut string from the hood to measure distance. A tool closet keeps all tools and supplies organized and available. Necessary Tools: ThermometerSpray bottlepH testerLiquid biodegradable soapHygrometerPruners or scissorsWire tiesSheetrock screwsScrewdriverMeasuring cup and spoonsPencil and notebookMoisture meterLight meterYardstick to measure growth!

It really isn't rocket science.. your first grow you'll learn how important some of the basics are... like PH, and not nuting too early, and as I just discovered your res temp CAN be too low .. (got a res heater and the babies are happy again)

The reason I suggested you watch those vid's is they will give you some advice you can count on to get started. You don't have to rely on "some Cowell guy on this site told me to do *this*".. and have it fuck up your plants. They are easy to grow once you get the gist of it.. proper lights, proper amount of nutes, how to keep your ph in check, temperatures and how to control them (if they are an issue) and this all gets worked out in your first grow and you can improve from there.

yeah . thanks alot cowell )