Guide to Training Techniques (LST, SOG, SCROG, etc in the
The Grow Room forums; I am in no way taking credit for this as I borrowed it because it is too much to type......... ...
Guide to Training Techniques (LST, SOG, SCROG, etc
I am in no way taking credit for this as I borrowed it because it is too much to type......... But don't be shy, Kick a +rep
Training is any method you use to control the growth of your plant. Topping is probably the most common form of training(for canabis). Topping is high stress training. Cutting the main grow stem off stresses the plant and causes it to redistribute its hormones to other grow tips resulting in the multi cola plants.
* * *
Low Stress Training (LST)
There is little if any recovery time because you are not damaging the budsites of your plants. When you tie the top grow tip below the rest of the plant the plant has the same reaction as topping and the axial growth tips are redistributed. The key to LST is to create a horizontal plane of buds so that they all get the same light and grow at the same rate. You end up with a bush of many colas instead of the traditional christmas tree bud plant with one main cola.
There are many ways to LST using steaks, chicken wire screens are common, many other I probably dont know about.
First step is to get a large pot the final size you want your pot and put a bunch of screws arround the lip of the pot I used 8 screws. These are the tie points for your training
Second Step. This next step is CRITICAL!!! I cannot stress this enough. This is the countertie. It is used so that the bottom part of your plants stem stays straight and in place. Without a countertie you are likely to uproot your plant because training usually occurs when there about a month or so old and not extremely established. Its simple just tie a piece of twine from one of the screws arround the bottom of your plant. Make sure that your twine is tied above the first leaf pair so that it doesnt slip all the way down to the bottom of the plant.
Third Step. The next step is to tie the main growth tip down so that the plant will release hormones that cause all the other growth tips to start functioning like the main cola. I use a simple overhand knot and tie my twine UNDER the highest set of developed leafs. Once again you need to make sure that the knot doesnt slip off of your plant. Then i tie a slip knot arround a screw. I use slip knots so i can just tighten the string as the plant grows. You can retie it everytime but im super lazy and that wouldnt cut it.
One last comment....one thing that wasen't mentioned above was the ability to tie shade leaves out of the way to get more direct light to the budsites.
Screen of Green (SCROG)
The screen of green (SCROG) method is also used when height and wattage are a consideration. A screen, usually of netting, screenwire or chickenwire, is attached at a desired height above the plants. This allows the growing marijuana plants to begin to grow horizontally after reaching the height limit, thus keeping the canopy, or height, at an even level, which allows consistent light penetration into the growing plants. Many growers have a consistent high yield using this method.
Sea of Green
Sea of Green Is the theory of harvesting lots of small plants, matured early to get the fastest production of buds available. Instead of growing a few plants for a longer period of time, in the same space many smaller plants are grown that mature faster and in less time. Thus, less time is required between crops. This is important to you when the electricity bill comes each month. One crop can be started while another is maturing, and a continuous harvest, year round can be maintained. 4 plants per square foot will be a good start for seedlings. 1 plant per square foot will allow plenty of room for each plant to grow a large top cola, but will not allow for much bottom branching. This is OK since indoors, these bottom branches are always shaded anyway, and will not grow very well unless given additional light and space. The indoor grower quickly realizes that plants that are too tall do not produce enough at the bottom to make the extra growing time used worth while. An exception to this rule would be if it is intended the plants are to go outside at some point, and it is expected that the light/shading issue will not be a factor at that point.
The plants, if started at the same time, should create what is called a "green canopy" that traps most of the light at the top level of the plants. Little light will penetrate below this level, since the plants are so close together. The gardener is attempting to concentrate on the top of the plant, and use the light and space to the best advantage, in as little time as possible. Use of nylon poultry fence or similar trellising laid out over the green canopy will support the plants as they start to droop under the weight of heavy fruiting tops. Stakes can be used too, but are not as easy to install for plants in the middle and back of the room, where reach is more difficult.
It's easy to want big plants, since they will produce more yield per plant, but it's usually better with limited space to grow smaller plants that mature faster and pack into smaller spaces. Sea of Green was developed in Holland. Instead of fitting 4 large plants in that small room, fit 12 small ones on a shelf above 12 other small plants. These plants take only 3-4 months to mature from germination to ripe buds, and harvesting takes place constantly, since there is both a vegetative and flowering area devoted to each, with harvests every 45-60 days.
It's not the size of the plant, but the maturity and quality of the product that counts. Twice as many plants grown half as big will fill the grow space twice as fast, so harvests take place almost twice as often. Get good at picking early flowering plants, and propagate only those that are of the best quality.
6" square containers will allow for 4 plants per square foot. You may also gauge by the size of your growing tray (for passive hydroponics); I like kitty litter boxes. ($3 each at Target) Planted 4 per square foot, (for vegetative seedlings) a 12 sq. ft. closet will hold 48 seedlings on one shelf. In my case, I use 4" rockwool cubes that fit into kitty litter pans @ 12 cubes per pan. I can get 5 pans onto a 12 sq. ft. closet upper shelf, so that is 60 seedlings on one small shelf!
For flowering indoors, 1 plant per sq. ft. is a good rule of thumb for SOG. If less plants are grown in this size space, it will take them longer to fill the space, thus more electricity and time will be used to create the same amount of product. If more than one plant p.s.f. is attempted, the grower will soon find that plants thus crowded tend to be more stem than bud, and the total harvest may be reduced, so be cautious.
It's good to avoid "topping" your plants if you want them to grow as fast as possible. It's better just to grow 2 or 4 times more plants, since they will produce more, faster, in the same space. Also, "training" plants with twist-ties is a great way to get them to bush out a bit. Just take any type of plastic or paper twist tie and wrap it around the top of the plant, then pull it over until the top is bent over 90-180 degrees and then attach this to the main stem lower on the plant. Do this for one week and then release the plant from it's bond. The plant can be trained in this fashion to take less vertical space and to grow bushier, to fill the grow space and force lower limbs to grow upward and join the green canopy. This technique takes advantage of the fact that if the top is pulled over, it creates a hormonal condition in the plant that makes it bush out at all lower internodes.
Sea of Green entails growing to harvest the main cola (top) of the plant. Bottom branches are trimmed to increase air flow under the "blanket" of growing tops. Use them for cuttings when you need more clones.
Some marijuana growers will take a pair of clippers to the top of their plant just above the last branch formation during the third or fourth week of vegetative growth. The top is removed by shearing it away at the stem. What happens next is that the main stem splits off in two or more directions, creating a V-shape at the top of your plant. The end result after flowering is two or more top colas instead of one. Now, two top colas instead of one does sound appealing and some growers have even managed to force a plant to grow more than six top colas using this method. Unfortunately this topping method of pruning doesn't always lead to better results.
Depending on the strain and the growing environment, the 'topped' plant may produce two small top colas instead of two big ones. Also, each strain has a threshold for bud production that cannot be improved upon because it is a genetically predetermined factor. On the other hand, some plants when fully grown without topping do not reach their threshold. The strain Blueberry is a good example of this. If you grow Blueberry without topping you won't achieve maximum bud production from that plant, but if you top the Blueberry, you will. Other strains aren't so flexible and the two top colas will simply share the same volume of bud that a single cola would have produced on the same strain.
It's advised that you keep in mind that pruning for yield using the topping method is strain-dependent and experiment carefully with this pruning method. Do this with 2 out of 10 plants in every grow. You'll find in time that during this vegetative prune you will be able to shape your plant. Plants are generally pruned three to four weeks into their vegetative cycle, but can be pruned sooner or later or more than once.
Pruning during flowering is not advised as the plant will be forced to divert its energy from bud production into branch and leaf production. This results in a slower rate of bud growth. For optimal growth finish your pruning well before flowering.
Super Cropping Technique
Supercropping is an easy growth - training method for marijuana growers. This is simply cutting off the top of the main stem several times during its vegetative growth, leaving approximately 10% of the stem intact each time. This method induces the plant to generate the growth of additional side shoots, which in turn increases the overall bud production. This is a favorite method of many growers, due to the almost - guaranteed increased yields.
Super Cropping: By taking a branch between your forefinger and thumb you can gently crush the branch, causing it to develop multiple branches above the crushed area. You must crush it on the correct side or risk breaking the branch. Just squeeze lightly until you feel the branch give, then let go. If it gives easily then you have crushed it on the correct side. If it is hard to crush and the branch splits then you have chosen the wrong side. Practice makes perfect with Super Cropping.
Super Cropping should be carried out during the second or third week of vegetative growth and does stunt the plant. You should also note that plants that are Super Cropped can remain in the vegetative growth stage for twice as long as normal but the end result is a very bushy plant with multiple node regions that should all produce bud. Many growers have thrown Super Cropped plants away because they believed that the plants were not flowering in time. If you Super Crop your plants make sure that you have the patience to wait until the process is finished which — usually about four to six more weeks of vegetative growth.
LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
You don't have to do it this way, it's just the basic idea of how to do LST.
#1: Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
#2: Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
#3: This is really not a step, just waiting time... the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day.
#4: Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set.
#5: Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot.
#6: Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
#7: Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
#8: Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
#9: After you have used up all possible space inside the pot it's time to just let it flower.
During flowering (and even sometimes a few days before) the lower sets of leaves will begin to turn yellow-brown and die off. Many people cut these off the main stem so that the plant doesn't waste energy on a useless, dying leaf set. Change your regular vegging light cycle (24/0 or 18/6 or something similar) to 12/12 (or whatever light/dark cycle you use for flowering but 12/12 is the most common) watch it show it's sex and begin to flower!
I'm about to start a three room hydroponic setup. I want to be able to harvest roughly every three weeks. I plan on alternating between Blueberry, White Russian, and another strain yet to be determined. My plan is to to have 2 veg rooms (one clone room and one veg room) and 1 flowering room. The first Veg room is where I will start the clones and keep the mother plants. This room is 3x3x8. Ill have the Momma plants on the top shelf and the clones on the bottom shelf both under fluorescent lights. The lights will be on for 20 hours, and every 6 hours there will be an hour of dark so basically 20/4. After three weeks, once the roots have started to form I plan on moving the best clones to the second veg room where the light time will remain the same. The second veg room is 4x3x8. At this point a new batch of clones will be cut and and started in the first veg room. In the second veg room the new plants will remain for another 3 weeks under 20/4 fluorescent lights. After 3 weeks in the clone room and 3 weeks in the veg room the plants will be ready for the flowering room. The flowering time should be around 9 weeks. So 15 weeks from start to finish hopefully. The flowering room is the biggest room and it is 7x5x8 and I will at first be running a 400watt hps air cooled light. Once I've made some money though I'll be using a 1000watt hps. Every 3 weeks another batch of plants should enter the flowering room with a total of 3 batches being able to fit at one time, harvesting one batch every 3 weeks and replacing it with a new batch. My original plan was to use the SCROG method but after reading about SOG and some of the others I was curious about my plans and if I should alter them. I can answer any questions you have regarding other parts of the grow If need be. My objective is to get around 2.5 to 3 pounds every three weeks. Which of these methods would you recommend?
nice post, wish it had some pics
Yeah I do too....
Originally Posted by "SICC"
Myself I Fim and veg hard. I would veg the first set for 8 weeks then the second set (clones from a 6 week plant) would be really mature when time for flowering.
Originally Posted by arsenal666
I just saw this info and thought I would share with others.
Able To Roll A Joint
Able to roll a joint
big question about LST when you first tie it down laying in one direction can you untie it and go the opposite way after a lil while to make sure the whole plant is getting light all around?
The limbs/stems get stiff after a a few days and would be hard to rebend another direction.
Originally Posted by ilookup2dajetz
I sometime lst them out so the middle gets light, then after 4 weeks of 12/12 I untie them and they sort of move back to middle.
Able To Roll A Joint
Able to roll a joint
Would it work to LST on a chicken wire screen and tie down the plant constantly (with a counter tie) so that it pretty much grows completely sideway with it's shoots all getting equal light? That way all colas would think they were the top and you could just put the plants in rows with the the stems going away from the pots parralel to the floor. Do you think it would work because this could create an amazing sea of green so to speak without the risk of having more plants! (12+ Plants = Jail)
great post..very helpful and in full detail, answers most of my questions about lst..thanx
Able To Roll A Joint
Able to roll a joint
Thanx man. This taught me a lot.
Harold-"Were so high right now."
Kumar-"Were not low"
By newgrowerguys in forum Newbie Central
Last Post: 03-17-2013, 04:55 PM
By SayWord in forum Newbie Central
Last Post: 02-01-2013, 11:50 PM
By mogie in forum General Marijuana Growing
Last Post: 03-21-2012, 09:13 PM
By hootie233 in forum General Marijuana Growing
Last Post: 11-20-2009, 07:31 PM
By robtoker in forum General Marijuana Growing
Last Post: 04-25-2009, 01:21 PM
Tags for this Thread