Figure this'll work ?

welcome to the forums =)

you can train any plant to stay under 5' with a little LST, but indica dominant strains tend to stay shorter and bushier than sativa strains. 6x6x5 is plenty of space, depending on how many plants you are trying to grow that is. Mj plants stretch alot during flower, they can double or even triple in size, so you can induce 12/12 when they are about 2' tall and they will be about 4-5' at harvest time. As for water, yes bottom feeding is better than top feeding but you want to water the top soil for the first week so the small seedlings can develop strong roots.

Sounds like you have just about everything else covered, good luck =)

for co2 dry ice may work, i am not sure. this is what you can do also. take a gallon jug and poke a pencil size hole in the lid. put 5 cups of sugar in the jug a few tablespoons of yeast. fill the jug half full with water and let the mixture dissolve, shake often. in a couple days you should have co2. you will have to change this mixture regularly but it is easy and cheap. there is a growfaq on this method that may explain it better. good luck

Thanks for the input.

Hey Majek, what's LST ?

jact55, the yeast idea sounds like a good one. I never thought of using yeast but it makes sense.

With the dry ice I was thinking of a cooler to make it last longer and the drain being a small enough hole to release it slowly, but I'm not sure how much (or how little) would be required in my case and if there would be any benefit to doing it at this stage in my (limited) experience.

lst is low stress training. just tying them down basically. when i do this i top (cut off the top) my plant, then train the branches outward to expose the most of the plant to the light that i can. it also helps with height issues if you have them.

Thx dood, that makes sense...like how you can train trees to grow outward as a bush or up as a tree...

I figured I'd keep my questions to this thread rather than start a new one.
The roots that are coming through the peat pellet are 'furry'. I assume this is normal and those are tiny 'hairs' that increase the surface area ?
My concern is mold, though I sterilized everything with a 30:1 bleach solution before I started.
Also, at what point does the plant's sex become apparent ? This is the only one of 5 seeds that germinated, so I'm hoping it'll be a mom that I can clone.



Here's the "light tube" I made up using a couple "daylight" CFLs. It fits perfectly over the pot I'm going to use but leaves only about 18" of space between the pot and the lights, so I won't be able to use it for long. The lights are on 24/7 right now and I lift the whole thing thing off a couple times a day to let the heat out.

Originally Posted by ExileOnMainStreet

I figured I'd keep my questions to this thread rather than start a new one.
The roots that are coming through the peat pellet are 'furry'. I assume this is normal and those are tiny 'hairs' that increase the surface area ?
My concern is mold, though I sterilized everything with a 30:1 bleach solution before I started.
Also, at what point does the plant's sex become apparent ? This is the only one of 5 seeds that germinated, so I'm hoping it'll be a mom that I can clone.



Here's the "light tube" I made up using a couple "daylight" CFLs. It fits perfectly over the pot I'm going to use but leaves only about 18" of space between the pot and the lights, so I won't be able to use it for long. The lights are on 24/7 right now and I lift the whole thing thing off a couple times a day to let the heat out.

transplant that seedling into soil as soon as possible.
and as for showing signs of sex.
How can I tell if my seedling is male or female without flowering it?



The most common method is to force flower a labeled clone to determine the sex, rather than the incorrect method of forcing the seedling and then reverting it to vegetative growth again.
If you are a seedling grower who does not clone, or a grower who has no seperate vegetative and flowering grow spaces, the easiest method is simply to wait for the preflowers (primordia), and sexual maturity to appear while the seedling is still in vegetative growth. In other words, if you wait until they are 6 to 8 weeks old, most plants will show you their gender without any forcing.
Seedling growers who don't clone are really missing out on the full potency potential of their finished crop whenever they force their seedlings before they've become sexually mature.

LUDA.

Sexing the Plants
The female plant is more desirable than the male for marijuana cultivation. The female flowering clusters (bus) are usually the most potent parts of the harvest. Also, given room to develop, a female generally will yield twice as much marijuana as her male counterpart. More of her weight consists of top-quality buds.
Because the female yields marijuana in greater quantity and sooner you can devote your attention to nurturing the females. Where space is limited, such as in indoor gardens and small outdoor plots most growers prefer to remove the males as soon as possible, and leave all available space for the females. To harvest sinsemilla (seedless female buds), you must remove the male plants before they mature and release pollen.
Differences in the appearance of male and female Cannabis become more apparent toward maturation. During the seedling stage, gender is virtually impossible to distinguish, although in some varieties the male seedling may appear slightly taller and may develop more quickly.
We know of no way to discover gender with any certainty until each plant actually forms either pollen-bearing male flowers or seed-bearing female flowers. However, certain general characteristics may help. Using guidelines like the following, growers who are familiar with a particular variety can often predict gender fairly accurately by the middle stage of the plant's life.
Early Vegetative Growth
After the initial seedling stage, female plants generally develop more complex branching than the male. The male is usually slightly taller and less branched. (Under artificial light, the differences in height and branching are less apparent throughout growth.)
Some plants develop a marked swelling at the nodes, which is more common and pronounced on female plants.
Middle Vegetative Growth
In the second to fourth months of growth, plants commonly form a few isolated flowers long before the actual flowering stage begins. These premature flowers are most often found between the eighth and twelfth nodes on the main stem. Often they appear near each stipule (leaf spur) on several successive nodes, at a distance two to six nodes below the growing tip. These individual flowers may not develop fully and are often hard to distinguish as male or female flowers. The fuzzy white stigmas of the female flower may not appear, and the male flowers seldom opens but remains a tightly closed knob. However, the male flower differs from the female; it is raised on a tiny stalk, and the knob is symmetrical. The female flower appear stalkless and more leaflike.
The presence of premature female flowers does not assure that the plant is a female, but premature male flowers almost always indicate a male plant. Unfortunately, it is much less common for male plants to develop premature male flowers than for female flowers to appear on either plant. For example, in one garden of 25 mixed-variety plants, by age 14 weeks, 15 plants showed well-formed, premature female flowers with raised stigmas. Eight of these plants matured into females and seven became males. Only two plants showed premature male flowers and both of these developed into males. The eight remaining plants did not develop premature flowers or otherwise distinguishable organs until the actual flowering stage at the age of 21 weeks. From these eight, there were four females, three males, and one plant bearing both male and female flowers (hermaphrodite). It does seem, however, that plants bearing well-formed female flowers, on several successive node, usually turn out to be females.
Preflowering
In the week or two prior to flowering and throughout flowering, many common marijuana varieties follow two general growth patterns which depend on gender. With these varieties, you can tell gender by the spacing between the leaves (internodes). For the female, the emphasis is on compact growth. Each new leaf grows closer to the last, until the top of the plant is obscured by tightly knit leaves. The male elongates just prior to showing flowers. New growth is spaced well apart and raises the male to a taller stature. This may by the first time the male shows its classic tall, loosely arranged profile.

LUDACRIS.