I got these plants from a friend on 6/27. They were grown in a green house using miracle grow soil and fertilizer. On 6/28 I transplanted them from 1 gallon pots to 3 gallon grow bags with fox farm oceans forest mixed with about 15% perlite and I put them under my 1000w hps 12/12. The plants had a few small yellow/brown spots on the leaves when I got them but the looked healthy. Now there seems to be more spots and now the lower leaves are starting to get yellow and wilt.

I think they have too much water but I'm not sure how to fix it. I gave them quite a bit of water when I transplanted them and it seems to be drying up very slowly. I bought a cheap $10 moisture meter and it says the soil is still moist.

I haven't given them anything besides well water at this point so I don't see how the spots on the leaves can be nute burn but I'm afraid that if the spots are from nute burn I wont be able to flush them without the plant having way to much water.

The RH was reaching about 80% at night the first couple nights. I got a dehumidifier and I have been keeping the RH around 45-50% the last couple days and it seems to be drying out the soil a little faster. The temps stay about 75-80 when the light is on and get down to about 65 when the light is off. The PH is around 6.5 according to my cheap PH meter (not the one in the pic).

Sorry the picture quality is so poor, I will try to get better pictures.

This is my first grow and I would really appreciate any help.

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Did they wilt after transplanting???

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Be wiser than other people if you can, but do not tell them so.

Leaves that are drooping from underwatering will look limp and lifeless.

Leaves that are drooping from overwatering will be firm and curled down, even from the stem of the leaf.

LUDA.

I gave them quite a bit of water after I transplanted them on 6/28, but I haven't given them any since.

I didn't really notice them wilting for a couple days after I transplanted and it seems to be getting worse.

i would suggest that if you last watered on the 28th then they are underwatered.
surely you can tell if the soil is dry ??????????.

LUDACRIS.

The top inch or so is dry but under that it is a little bit moist, but not very. I would have watered them but I don't really have a green thumb so I was putting all my trust in the cheap moister meter I bought. I will try giving it some water. About how much water should I be giving them?

I use and recommend the single probe Rapidtest moisture meter. It is available from most of the major garden centers for under $20. This meter reads consistently without using batteries. It is invaluable for determining watering schedules, which vary tremendously from plant to plant, overwatered conditions, and uneven moisture distribution within the container. Rapidtest also sells a shorter, two probe model which should be avoided. Make this investment, monitor conditions regularly, and reap the rewards at harvest.

Growers that allow their medium to dry out to the point at which the leaves "droop" are reducing their final yields and quality. The medium contains a certain amount of salts that dramatically increase in concentration as the water dissipates. The roots can be repeatedly stressed going through this technique called "wet/dry cycle". The plant is being deprived of moisture that would be available to fuel additional growth and suffers.

The moisture meter's probe should be inserted to various depths to accurately assess conditions. The Rapidtest has a 1-4 scale on the meter, but what is imporatant is relative moisture. The lower potion of the medium in the container should not be so consistently and constantly moist as to "bury the needle" at the top of the scale. The middle depths of the container should be kept in the upper half section of the meter's range and the top should be allowed to dry out to the lower half of the range before rewatering.

This is far more accurate to the lifting and guessing game played by many. The weight of the container does not indicate where the moisture is inside. A grower would never really know if things at the bottom were oversaturated without a probe to tell them. If the bottom is soaked and never dries out, the container feels "heavy" even though other areas may be quite dry. Many grower use large, tight grids of 3-5 gallon containers which can amount to 40-100+ containers. How could they use the lift and guess method, if they can hardly reach some of my plants just to water and prune them. It would be impossible and bad for their backs to use anything except a moisture meter. In other situations the plants are attached to fixed supports, such as SCROG or simply tied up prohibiting movement. There is no more accurate or versatile way to determine your watering schedule.I am one of those that plays the "lifting and guessing game" and I will always recommend that you use your senses to judge and understand your plants rather than trusting in a $8 Wal-mart toy.

If a grower has 40-100+ large containers then they are likely experienced and likely growing mostly the same crop. When you know your plant and your system you don't use a moisture meter. No serious grower that I've met personally does.

Moisture meters are fine for beginners IF you use multiple sample points in each pot. It's too easy to hit a pocket of perlite or just rub the sensor the wrong way. I'd rather judge by visual and tactile response rather than entrusting a wavering needle on an inaccurate meter. You know that when you lift up your container, is it wet? or is it dry?
While I am a proponent of wet/dry cycling, I do not suggest waiting until leaves begin to droop or wilt. As Mr.Ito stated, this causes unnecessary stress.

Beginners should definitely rely on judging by the weight of the container, or a moisture meter... although one must test several areas in the containers to get an accurate idea of total moisture.

It is important to the growth of a healthly and strong root system to let plants dry out quite a bit between waterings. It can take several years to understand your plants and their needs enough to feel safe drying containers longer than a few days. However, with gained knowledge and a moisture meter you can easily push your girls to their limits without fear of stress.

LUDA.

Thanks for the info. I gave them some water and I'm gonna try to find a better moisture meter. How much water do you think I should be giving them?

everybodys watering schedules will differ due to pot size/plant size/grow room environment etc etc.
so nobody can tell you how much water to give your plants and when to give it to the plants as i said its different for everybody and you will soon know when to water as to your own conditions therefore i cant say how much water you should be giving them.
when you get the hang of it you will no longer need your moisture meter and it will become very easy once you get the feel for your plants requirements it will come to you with experience.
go back and read the info i posted again and pay attention.
(good luck).

LUDA.
.

Thats another reason NOT TO USE MG soils......They seem to hold moisture. I know exactly what you mean that the top seems dry but underneath its still wet. Grrrrrrrrrr That stuff needs to be cut big time with perlite or vermiculite.

Do you happen to have any fans blowing on them? Maybe give it a try so the plant dries up and sucks the moisture out of the soil.

Yo yo...SUPP LUDA

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