From page 98
I went through 60 pages of this thread and came up with IMHO the most asked questions and here are Rosemans' response:

Grow Notes
1. Roots: Thick, fat, white furry roots are what you most want to see - they are absolutely indicative of healthy root growth. Be aware however that the color of a nutrient solution will stain the roots, turning them yellow or brown. This is also true of many nutrient additives. Older, more mature plants will have a darker cream-colored root system, and some plants just tend to have a natural cream colored color pigment.

2. PPM for Hanna Chart PPM

Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

Note: EC Calculations are different

3. After you see 4 leaves, they can handle full strength nutes, if you are using the SH nutes. After they are ABOUT 6 inches tall, at least Once a week, you drain and replenish, or feed them. When they start drinking a gallon a day, you do add 1/6 nutes to one gallon of water that you replenish with, IF YOU ARE ADDING ONE GALLON OF WATER BACK.
~It is better to wait until you see 4 leaves, before you add 1/4 nutes, or half nute strength.
~No nuts when starting the seeds (just plain PH correct water) in the wool cubes. Remove all the paper and plastic that surrounds the wool cubes and stick the seed down in the hole about half way into the wool cube.
~I put the seeds about half way down in the rock wool cubes correct? YES.

Do I want the hose feeding water to the net cups inserted on the top of the cup pointing downwards or the bottom of the net cups pointing upwards? Near the top or near the center, flowing downward toward the root base under the cube.

The pdf from SH shows them at the bottom pointing up, and your instructions say to put the hose in through the top of the net cup. Which is best from your experience? I tried both, and I like in the center, butting into the side of the cube.


Also, in the pdf from SH they show the plastic still on the rock wool cubes while sitting in the net cups. Leave the plastic on or off for starting with seeds?
They, the owners, are afraid someone will get sick or injured from handling the cube, and sue them, so they show and talk "plastic on". That's why they stick the tube where they do. If you remove the plastic, you can but the tube right into the center of the cube.
I thought when your starting with seeds in a rock wool cubes you used NO nuts just plain PH perfect water for the first week or 2 or until you see sprouts then add 1/4 strenght nutrients??? You are right. No nutes, until you see 4 leaves.
~after I get all the cubes and rocks in place in the net cups, I need to cut a 1 inch hole in the center of something that will cover each cup to keep out light, except for the hole in the middle? Yes






4. Seed ~ we take a seed, (I soak mine a few hours in luke warm water) put it in a wet rockwool cube, and we put it in the system. Seeds stay in DARK until they sprout and show a root and sprout. Then , like the first day they are coming out of the ground in nature outdoors, they get full light. On the first day, I have 3 or 4 CFLS about 6 inches high, and I lower them one inch a day, until 4 or 5 days later, they are one to two inches away.


5. Training ~ When they get about ten inches, or tall enough to bend over the sides or reach over the sides, then bend them, is what I do.

6. Fans ~ It is imperative to have a fan during the grow process. The fan provides constant movement of air as well as slight air on the stems of the plants. The air on the stems promotes strong stems, therefore your plants will be able to hold additional weight as they get older. Need a light breeze.

7. When the large fan leaves are YELLOW, and DYING, then tug them off.
Do NOT remove green healthy ones, they'll use energy to grow back, instead of sending energy to the bud sites. DO NOT TRIM THOSE BIG FAN LEAVES, THEY ARE REQUIRED FOR THE PHOTOSYNTHISIS

8. hydroton rocks ~ The main thing is getting them clean. There is not a set time and they dont hold any water or anything...you just want to get them squeaky clean before you put them to use in a system.

9. Leaves ~ The first two leaves that ever appeared will yellow soon, early, and wilt. That is natural. Extra Caution is better than NO Caution and small steps is better than giant steps. There is no harm in being extra careful and cautious.

10. with three large plants, 5 weeks Vegging, 8 weeks Flowering, 13 weeks total, you'd get 4 to 8 ounces per plant, like an average of 15 to 16 ounces
If you will snip the very top of each plant at about ten days, and three weeks, and again at 4 weeks, you can get many more limbs or branches with tops and increase the yield.

11. Rock Wool Cubes ~ IT IS BEST FOR THE TUBE TO BUTT INTO THE CUBE, WITH THE PLASTIC OFF.

12. The pH UP and Down I use recommends .1 gram per gallon of water. That is a very small amount. 1/10 of a gram. IF you used a pinch, a 1/4 teaspoon, a gram, 10 TIMES too much, you could really endanger your plant's lives. Pot can not survive or take a strong drastic change in pH.
If you drop just a little into the tank, and it settles to one spot in the bottom and only one of 6 plants gets what 6 plants should have shared, you get a disaster.!!! Adjusting pH UP and Down too rapidly, or too much, or in too close of intervals is just plain dangerous.
AND in my humble opinion, the best way to learn to be a successful grower is from someone else's mistakes, NOT making the same mistake yourself.

13. IN HYDRO, the biggest mistake we make is OVER FEEDING
To increase yield, or to grow faster, there are some proven things you can and should do. But ADDITONAL FERTS OR Additional NUTES IS NOT ONE OF THEM.
If you just want to do something for the sake of doing something,
1, DRAIN AND REPLINISH
2 ADD MORE LIGHTS
3, SNIP THE TOPS at 2 to 4 weeks, to make two tops, depending on what you growing and how you growing.
4, Keep the area clean, especially dead falling leaves, so they do not get in the tank.
5,MOVE the lights to different positions.
6, Check the FAN for DIRECTION, CHECK the water for ODOR and COLOR, check the pH, check the water temp, the air temp, and the humidity.
7, Look for males starting to bloom.
8, Look for YELLOWING, CURLING, or WILTING LEAVES and know what is normal.

14. He taught me about TWISTING the stem or branch, very hard, to create a wound, telling me the plant would send extra something up the branch to help heal it. I thought he was nuts, but it was his house. He also surprised me one day by tying fishing weights to the ends of many limbs or branches, bending them over. And he was a big believer in cutting off each end of every branch at 3 or 4 weeks, including the tops. I got to admit, all his ideas seemed to work great, and increase the yield of the ends, tops or buds.

15. You start by putting perfect pH water, or as perfect as you can get it, (anywhere between 5.7 and 6.8 will do fine, 5.8 to 6.0 is best) with the perfect nutes (nutrients) that are pH balanced too. After a week or two, the roots hit the deep water and starting drinking the water. The plants eat or take from the water, taking nitrogen, potassium, and other minerals for food, but they do not take the same amounts of each, leaving the water NOT PERFECT, with different amounts of remaining minerals. That means the water needs replacing.
ALSO, after two weeks, it is nearly impossible to avoid a piece of dead leaf getting in the tank, or a piece of dead root in the tank. That messes up the water, and the pH. So you have to replace the water with PERFECT water again.
ALSO, after about 4 weeks, they will be drinking nearly a gallon a day. And you have to REPLINISH the water with new water and new nutes, that is pH balanced.
ALSO, when you do drain the water, the roots are exposed to a blast of Oxygen, and as long as they are not dry for over 15 minutes, they love that blast of fresh air. The more often you drain and replenish, the faster they grow. Knowing that, I drained every Saturday, EVERY SATURDAY, after the first two weeks. Occasionally, on Wednesday, I drained it and put the water in a 5 gallon bucket, pH tested it, Adjusted it and put the same water right back in, just to give them a bath of air for a few minutes.

16. Mistakes I made with the Bubbleponics in the beginning and errors I posted here, that I wish I could take back:

You should start the seeds in the cubes, in the system, with the water flowing, but with NO nutes, and not in a wet paper towel.
You should start 2 or 3 EXTRA seeds in a wet paper towel to replace the plants that are deformed or runts.
DO NOT USE THE SYSTEM TO RINSE THE HYDROTON ROCKS. AND rinse those rocks ten times, over and over in a colander, until the water runs clear.
DO NOT LISTEN TO ANYONE OFFERING ADVISE THAT IS A SOIL GROWER OR HAS NOT USED THIS SYSTEM.
I wish I had added 1/4 nutes at the first sight of 4 full leaves, and another 1/4 daily.
I wish I had done 24/7 lights THE FIRST DAY, and NOT gradually built up to 24/7.
I wish I had not tried 18/6 Lights, BIG WASTE OF TIME.
When it was time to flower, I wish I had not wasted the time gradually going to 12/12. BIG MISTAKE.
I wish I had not went for the SOG grow and had VEGGED 5 FULL WEEKS, and then started BLOOMing to get a bigger yield.
I wish I had not taken any advise about additives, and supplements.
I wish I had used an extra air stone the first grow.
I wish I had used some SIDE LIGHTS the first grow. You get a bushier plant and more tops.
I wish I had not listened to anyone who said to remove the big fan leaves near the bottom.
I wish I had snipped the tops off, about one inch, at 2 and 4 weeks, along with the ends of any large branch.
I wish I had never done anything thinking "I wonder what will happen if I ...............................?"
I wish I had not added miracle grow to the tank. BIG MISTAKE, THE NUTES FROM SH ARE PERFECT.!
I wish I had made cup covers the first grow.
I was very wrong about doing a SOG.
I WAS WRONG ABOUT MIRRORS AND TIN FOIL.
I was not putting the cube low enough in the cup. Put it half way down.
I was WRONG about introducing the nutes THE FIRST DAY.
I wish I had butted the tube right into the side of the cube.
I was VERY Wrong about City WATER, (It is probably better, but do not let it sit)
I DO Advise going for large plants, you can do 3 or 4 in the one tank.
You DO soak the cubes.
I wish I had learned to DRAIN AND REPLINISH more often, earlier.
I wished I had checked the feeder tubes more often to see if they were still connected to the hub AND NOT CLOGGED.
I wish I had learned how to let the pump empty the tank, instead of siphoning it out.
I wish I had learned to pH the water first, then add the nutes.
I wish I had spent the $59 on a pH meter, earlier.

I WAS WRONG IN WANTING TO KEEP DOING SOMETHING. YOU CAN REST AND LET THE SYSTEM DO THE WORK.

Trimming, Pruning, Fimming, LSTing, PINCHING, TWISTING and Adding Nutes are like WORDS. AFTER they are said and done, they are said and done and you can not take them back. Like toothpaste, once you squeeze it out, you can't put it back. What I'm trying to say, that when you experiment, take it easy, don't go hog wild crazy doing anything to them. Too little is just too little and can be fixed. TOO MUCH is TOO MUCH and you can't go back and do less, it's too late. It is so easy to get stoned and ask yourself "I wonder what will happen if I...." DON'T DO THAT! If you don't know what will happen, don't do it!

17. ALSO, with every grow, at least twice, during VEG, I deliberately and purposely STRETCH them. Normally, 99% of the time, I keep my CFLS one to two inches away. BUT I raise them 18 inches away for a day, for a full 24 hours. They will REACH or STRETCH toward the light and grow 3 or 4 inches taller in one day!

18. Harvest ~ When I harvest, I, like everyone else, want it done fast as possible. BUT, I also want it done right. I use cardboard boxes. They can absorb some moisture. I cut the buds off, anything over one and half inches long, and I manicure them right then and there. Then, using cheap masking tape, I make rows 3 or 4 inches apart, across the box opening and I hang them from the tape. I run an oscillating fan on low, blowing OVER but not on them, just to keep air moving. Do not allow the buds to touch each other. There are FASTER ways, but FAST is not best. There are SLOWER ways, like hanging up entire plants, but that is just a waste of time. By drying just the buds alone, I can dry them in 5 to 7 days. The big buds are 7 days, the small buds in 5 days, til I can snap the stems. I put the small popcorn buds in boxes, not piled up or touching each other, and I stir them around daily too. I also trim the trim leaves, the leaves close to the buds, the leaves with trichinoses, and I keep them separate, in shoe boxes, with the fan blowing over them too. I save them to make HASH. I also save the large shade leaves, and dry them too, to make oil.
What I want to do is dry them first, and then CURE them, by placing them in jars, and opening the jars daily for a few minutes, to smell them, for 30 days. IF they smell funky, I take them out of the jar and dry them again two more days, then back in the jars.
I've done 9 crops in about 3 years, and I lost one jar, on the 30th day, it smelled funky like mold. It had my biggest bud ( a big cola cut in half) in it and did not dry enough before I put it in the jar. You have to watch those big colas close.

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stick a fork in this thread!!that should be the fastest way to get growin with your bp

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SmokeSumthinBitch
BUBBLEHEADS
Roseman and Purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
CURRENT:
DNA-Lemon Skunk

whats up purp daddy great job on the new thread. will give you some rep points and many props!!!!

dont forget about roseman.

__________________
SmokeSumthinBitch
BUBBLEHEADS
Roseman and Purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
CURRENT:
DNA-Lemon Skunk

and blueybong

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SmokeSumthinBitch
BUBBLEHEADS
Roseman and Purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
CURRENT:
DNA-Lemon Skunk

-iF YOU DONT WANT TO USE THE SEALTH HYDRO NUTES ,the General Hydroponic line works great in this system..i am currently using it...

-if you dont want to go with the full spectrum lighting on the site you can get a 400-600w metal halide/High Pressure Sodiom bulbs(which i also use 400w.).As you can see you have to have alot of them when you can have on HID light.Thats what i like about it..you dont have lights coming from every corner.But HID lighting puts out alotta heat and you have to take that in consideration when choosing a place to grow.Or proper ventilation like ducting work will help the transfer of hot and cool air from your growroom.

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SmokeSumthinBitch
BUBBLEHEADS
Roseman and Purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
CURRENT:
DNA-Lemon Skunk

Great thread Purp, this needed to be put in one place and altogheter, lets keep it short and sweet. +Rep

i never forget rosemman, purp daddy, major tom, and blueybong!!!!!!! you guys are the best. keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!

www.surf-anon.com/ use this website to surf the web so the cops cant fuck with just an idea.... dont want any of my buddies on this website getting in trouble. tell anyone you come into contact with

TY P u ansered mi ? on the GH line of nutes.

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http://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growi...icy-fruit.html