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#1
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Far, FAR too many noobs decide to grow weed, plant seeds and then go build the grow op. As a bit of an afterthought, these same noobs will then skim over a grow guide and have some coarse idea of how cannabis grows, perhaps have a vague idea of what a plant in veg and flower might be.
No. Nononononono. Please don't do this. It's like blowing half-dozen bonghits and then going out looking for the party. There's lots of knowledgeable ppl around this board, but if you do try to grow without first acquiring basic cannabis plant knowledge, planning the scale of your op and building the physical op facilities- BEFORE you even THINK about dampening a seed, you make the catch-up work for your mentor/s MUCH harder. If you're going to grow, you may as well grow as much as you can smoke. Micro grows are certainly possible but a 1-2 plant closet or cabinet grow just won't make much weed, even if you're using the highest performance lighting and watering system available. Noobs should plan on 1/4-1/2 oz per plant. Experienced growers will get 3/4-1oz per plant in a SoG operation. If you smoke 1/4oz a week, noob growers would need to harvest 1-2 plants a week or 2-4 plants every 2 weeks in a 2-week rotation style SoG op. It's up to you to then decide how many plants you'll need to grow to suit your smoking needs. When you know how many plants you need to grow, plan on giving each plant an 8-12" circle to live in. SoG style growing means pruning off all branches on the lower 1/3 of the plant, leaving only the mainstem with a big fat top cola and some nice golfball sized buds on the mainstem itself. The lower branches produce only small, wispy buds and restrict airflow around the plant, crowding other plants, so you may as well not grow that part of the plant at all. For the SOG style of plant, an 8-12" circle is plenty. Plan on around 40-50 watts of HPS light per square foot of flowering space. Minimum requirements for a functional grow op (one that will yield enough to be worth doing, i.e. at least an oz or two every cpl weeks) include a clonebox, a mother plant vegging area and a flowering area. You can keep as little as one mother, but more mothers is an insurance policy. I keep 6-8 mothers to provide 30 cuttings every 2 weeks. Divide up your available space accordingly and work out how you're going to keep light from the clone and mother areas from interrupting the 12 hour dark period of the flowering plants. The next consideration is the location of the op. You need to be able to ventilate the space- and that does NOT mean leaving a closet door open part of the day. We're talking about intake and exhaust fans with appropriate ducting to avoid recycling 'used' air back into the op. If you can't install proper ventilation, you will have high air temps and high humidity- which will give you low yields and other problems such as powdery mildew which can simply kill the plants outright. The space needs to have enough airflow to both remove heat from the lighting, moisture in the air put there by the plants and provide adequate CO2 for the plants. This means a ventilation system that will exchange the entire volume of the room air in about 3-5 mins max. Work out your room volume by multiplying room length x width x height and then go shopping for exhaust fans based on that figure. A 1000 cubic foot room needs a 200 CFM (cubic foot/min) exhaust fan. If you can't ventilate the space, you can't grow in it. The floor needs either to be a durable surface like concrete or tile or must be protected against water leaks and spills. An old waterbed liner under your grow will do OK if there's no holes in it. Grow room fires are usually caused by stupidly overloading electric circuits or using cheap power outlet strips on high-current devices. KNOW how many watts you're drawing and how many you can safely draw from each circuit. LEARN how to calculate watts from your line voltage and the amount of current (in Amps) your gear will use. (watts = volts * amps). Smart growers only use 80% of a circuit's capacity (i.e. 8 amps on a 10 amp ckt) If you're going to do hydro, you MUST have a nutrient meter (measures nute strength in ppm, CF or EC) and a pH meter. You get what you pay for. Cheap meters don't last long and are often inaccurate. I use the "Truncheon" nute meter and Eutech brand pH meters, both which last many years with no worries. Don't fear hydro. If you can follow some basic procedures, hydro is more reliable than potting soil and will ALWAYS yield more. For my hydro media, I use rockwool in pots. It's cheap, lightweight, sterile and easy to dispose of. Soil weighs 10x more than rockwool. If you're growing a number of plants, the amount of soil you need quickly becomes cumbersome. You MUST have a good thermometer/hygrometer in your growspaces. Digital thermo/hygros with peak memories are very cheap these days- and you will KNOW what goes on in the room. You don't need recirculating plumbing to do hydro- you can use a wick system, which just has a bit of rope leading from the bottom of your plant's pot into a tank of nute solution. The water & nutes wick up the rope & wet the media as the plant removes the water. However, recirculating systems like flood/drain (aka ebb/flow) and drip system can carry more dissolved oxygen to the plant's roots. Aero and NFT systems are better yet. I use a flood system because there's no drippers or sprayers to clog with dried nute salts. A grow op must be designed to maintain certain environmental conditions (24-27 deg C @ 30-50% humidity), but it also conceals your op. It must not permit any light leakage and it must not attract attention with scent or noises. Scent control is best done with big blower fans and carbon filters or UV ionisers. Ionisers are expensive to buy but run for years with no maintenance. In addition to killing scents, they also kill mould spores in grow room air. Don't put your op in a place where you can be seen entering and leaving if you can avoid it. If neighbours can see you coming and going, they will notice you eventually. Know them as well as they know you and go in/out when they're not around or automate your op so you need not go in every day. Do your homework before posting queries:
Now go to it! |
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#2
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Good post all NOOB's should read this before they can register.
Great work AL B....
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My Reservation has no Post office. So nothing coming in and absolutely nothing going out. I am just a figment of the collective imagination of the people on this site. |
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#4
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Thanks, Shaman. I might ask for this one to be made sticky for a bit.
Quote:
There's absolutely no sin in being a noob grower. It's totally OK to be a noob! In fact, there's a lot worse to be encountered by those who really are noobs but who think they're w33d b4R0nz. Everyone is a noob once. It's much better to know you're a noob and learn how to find and apply good information than to think you know what's going on or try to guess your way through using old wives' tales and rumours. |
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#5
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I really intended this bit to be only a very rough guide- I didn't discuss some things in the level of detail that one really needs to consider before launching into a grow op.
One that I really should have mentioned is about practical security. Partners in a grow op almost always cause grief. Do It Yourself. If you're growing more than you have time to manage by yourself in terms of maintenance and harvesting, grow less. A one-wo/man-band has only one source to leak info and no-one to disagree with over growing methods. |
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#6
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How many people do you think come here and would read this before actually germinating a seed? I know I started mine with a 60 watt incandescent as my light source and in a coffee mug full of soil that had been home to a peace lily for 5 years . I've made every mistake possible in my journey, but through hours and hours of research here, I've built quite a nice (but relatively small) grow room which I plan to use to FIM and ScoG 10 ladies after my current grow is harvested. That's right, I screwed the pooch on so many aspects of my current grow, but I think I should get 1-2 ounces off the two girls that survived my abuse. It may not be true for everybody, but I learn more from my own mistakes. It also helps that every time I turn around I'm finding valuable info here that reveals my mistakes.
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#7
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Quote:
Quote:
I agree that the trial & error means teaches you some troubleshooting skills, allowing you to learn to solve probs on your own, but if you just bang everything within the bell-curve of the right parameters, it'll most likely grow you some weed. If you nail everything perfectly, it's the difference between growing grapes and making fine wine. |
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#8
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#10
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Nice thread Al.
I agree things like this should be brought to newbs attention up front. There is alot one should consider and figure out before they start growing. As I said in a prior post. --If you do not know something teach it.-- |
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