Now I know there has been some confusion about hydroponics gardening ever since it first came out. I am here to do two things: 1.) Dispel all the rumors that surround hydro (i.e. difficulty, inferior taste, etc.) AND more importantly 2.) Teach someone with 0% hydro experience exactly what to do to build their own hydro system and be growing plants in a day. This essentially is going to be a ‘cookbook’ for hydroponics. Now some of you may be thinking “I have seen these threads before, how is this one different?” Well, I think I might have a different and possibly better method to teach how to do it. One of the things that I will do is be very specific and not leave very much room for swaying from what I do, because then I know it will work for everyone else. If you do exactly like I say, I promise this will work for you. Once you get the hang of it, then go ahead and try your own thing, but this is a guide for newbies, so those who are advanced growers: please do not confuse the young bucks. And best of all, you will be able to do this for cheap! This can also be considered a quick reference guide for all facets of hydroponics as it will have all the basic measurements.
Since most people will be coming to this page to see how to build the system, I will go over this part first and dispel the rumors afterwards, as well in the actual process of building your own DWC hydro system. Without further ado, Here is the Hydro For Newbies DIY Guide:
1.)Lighting is definitely the most crucial part in any grow. Ask yourself how many plants you would like to grow with hydro. For all your plants, a good conservative way to tell how big of a light you need is to take the number of plants and multiply it by 75. This will tell you how big of a light in Watts you should get. For instance if you want 4 plants: 75 X 4 = 300 Since they don’t make a 300W ballast, you could either go with a 250W, but it would be wiser to go with a 400W because the cost difference is not that much different from a 250W and you can end up growing more plants later on if you so choose. This will be the most expensive part of the operation, but this dictates what kind of quality buds you will get. If you cannot afford to buy both an HPS (High Pressure Sodium) and MH (Metal Halide) bulb, then just go with an HPS. It will give better buds, but the plants will grow a little slower during vegetative growth. But the end product is what matters anyways.
2.)However many plants you will be growing, obtain that many 5 gallon buckets and set them aside. You can get these for free or buy them cheap at Wal-Mart or the equivalent store.
3.)Go to a physical hydroponics store or an online one and obtain the same amount of net pots as you have 5 gallon buckets. Look for the ones that are 8” or 10” in diameter, these will be the ones that fit right on top of your buckets. These cost about a few dollars a piece. They should look something like this:





4.)While at the hydro store, you will also need to obtain your nutrients. The specific brand is General Hydroponics and you will buy Flora Nova. Do NOT buy the regular Flora series. Like I said, if you want this to work your first time, you must do exactly like I do. By the way, these are high quality nutrients that only are a two part series; and the cost difference is not that much. You just add one part during vegetative growing and one part during flowering. With the Flora series, it’s too much mixing nonsense. The Flora Nova series looks like this:




5.)Buy some pH Up and Down. I suggest the Advanced Nutrients line because it is one of their cheapest products and it is VERY CONCENTRATED. It will last you a lifetime… well you know what I mean It should look something like this:



6.)Now the second most expensive part is the pH meter, but you need it and there is no way around it. You can’t really use those drops to tell pH because it does not get exact enough. Behind the light, this is the most important part because without it, your plants will die and quickly. You also need a ppm meter to tell what nutrient concentration you are at. The good news is that you can get both in a combo pen. I suggest getting the Hanna pH & EC meter because it gives pH, EC (Electrical Conductivity) and the PPM conversion. It costs about $180 and it looks like this:




7.)While at the hydro store, buy rockwool cubes and hydroton. The rockwool cubes are what your seeds will germinate in, grow, and spend the rest of their life in until harvest. It’s like the soil in that it holds the plants up and provides a growing medium, but there aren’t any nutrients in it. The hydroton is what holds the rockwool cubes in place within the net pots throughout the plants’ life.
8.)Go to Wal-Mart and go to their pets section. Find their fish section and you will see their aquarium aerators. However many plants you have, buy that many aerators, some tubing, and two airstones per aerator. So, if you are growing 4 plants, you will have 4 buckets, 4 aerators, and 8 airstones.
9.)Unless you have reverse osmosis filtration in your house, go and buy some distilled water from Wal-Mart or the grocery store. It comes in 1 gallon jugs and you will need about 2 gallons of water per bucket. These quantities will get replaced every two weeks, so buy accordingly. You can test out your pH meter on this and it should read 0ppm.
10.)The next part is to germinate your seeds. I suggest the paper towel method. To do this, take a paper towel, use some distilled water to make it damp, and place your seeds in it. Then fold it up and place between two dinner plates (one right-side up, the other upside down) and place on top of a heating pad at low-medium temp.
11.)Once you start your seeds in the paper towel, you should also start soaking your rockwool cubes in some water that is adjusted to a pH of 5.5-5.8. The reason for this is because the rockwool cubes have a basic pH, and you need to leach some of the basic salts out before you put the sprouts in them. Soak them for 24 hours. Once they sprout, place them in the hole of the rockwool cube with the taproot facing downwards. Place the damp rockwool cubes in large kitchen bowl, add a tiny amount of water (not even enough to fill up the entire bottom of the bowl… think of putting just a “splash” in it) and cover it with cellophane. Then place back on top of the heating pad and wait for them to sprout above the surface.

Vegetative Growth
12.)Once they have grown their second set of leaves, they are ready to be put in the system! So, what you do is place the rockwool cubes with the sprouts into the nets. First, put about 1 inch of hydroton in the bottom of the nets, then put the rockwool cube on top of the hydroton layer. Once it is situated, place hydroton all around it until it covers just the top of the rockwool cube.
13.)Place this net into the 5 gallon bucket and fill with PURE distilled water until the level is within ½” of the net. Hook up you aerator with your two airstones and place in the bottom of the bucket. The bubbles should barely be splashing the bottom of the net. DO NOT ADD ANY NUTRIENTS TO THE WATER YET. Set your lights to a cycle of 18 hours on, 6 hours off. To prevent root rot, this is where you can add some Hydrogen Peroxide. Add the 3% (store bought) at a rate of 3 capfulls per bucket. You should do this throughout the plants cycle to help prevent root rot. This is where you must starting adjusting your pH to 5.5-5.8 and continue to do so throughout the plant’s life.
14.)Once the plants get their fourth set of leaves (1 week or so), add about ½ teaspoon per gallon (1 teaspoon of Flora Nova Grow to each of your buckets) and mix it up. The ppm that you are aiming for is around 250-300. Adjust again for pH to around 5.5-5.8.
15.)Let them grow a little, always checking your water levels in your buckets. Once they grow for one more week (it has been two weeks and they should be at least 6”), empty your reservoir. On a side note, you must never leave the nutrients in for more than 2 weeks at a time. Then refill the bucket with 2 more gallons of distilled water. Then mix the Flora Nova Grow at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon (or 2 teapoons per bucket). You are now aiming for a ppm of 600.
16.)Empty buckets after 2 weeks and refill with 2 more gallons of distilled water. Then mix Flora Nova Grow again at a rate of 1 - 1-1/2 teaspoon per gallon (2-3 teaspoons per bucket). Let them grow for two more weeks. ( Keep adding your Hydrogen Peroxide if you have been) The ppm should be around 600-800.

Flowering
17.)After they have grown for another two weeks, empty reservoir and fill with pure distilled water. This is where you switch your lights to 12/12. Keep adjusting you pH as you have been to 5.5-5.8 and let the plants grow in the pH adjusted pure water for 3 days. After the 3 days, add the Flora Nova Bloom formula at a rate of 1-1/2 teaspoons per gallon. You should be aiming around 900-1000 ppm at this point.
18.)Let them grow for two more weeks, empty reservoir, and refill with distilled water (2 gallons). Add Flora Nova Bloom at a rate of 2 teaspoons per gallon, or 1100-1200 ppm overall. Let grow for another two weeks.
19.)Repeat step 18 for another two weeks.
20.)Empty reservoir and refill with another 2 gallons of distilled water. Add 1 teaspoon per gallon (2 teaspoons) and your ppm should be around 600mm. Let grow for 1 week. So far, we have 7 weeks of flowering. Only 1 week left.
21.)After the one week at 600ppm, empty the reservoir again and fill with pure distilled water. Adjust your pH again to 5.5-5.8. Now, leave your plants in pure distilled water until they are ready to harvest. Should be about 1 week or so. If it is more, just add the water accordingly in the mean time to keep the water level high enough.

This is the protocol for a someone who has zero hydro experience and wants to attempt it. While someone may have some additional input, this is a guaranteed method for someone who wants to grow a personal amount and not mess around with all the other variables at first. This is not a complete guide as it does not include checking for trichome colors, drying/curing, or anything of that nature; there are plenty of FAQ’s to answer those kinds of questions. This is meant to be a foolproof grow guide for the first time hydro grower. The other thing I was going to touch on was difficulty and taste. Well, as you can see, it’s not that difficult. As far as taste goes, I grow outdoors as well and my hydro tastes as good, if not better than my outdoor stuff. It is more potent, and I gain a bigger yield per unit of plant, usually. Some people say you do not have to do the last step of flushing the plant with distilled water, but I personally think it makes a small difference. As far as flushing is concerned, I have seen less of a difference in taste with the Flora Nova than the Flora series I used to use, but it still makes a little difference, IMO. And remember, we actually flushed twice; the first time was right when we started flowering. If anyone has any questions on this, ask it in this forum or shoot me a PM. I hope this helps everyone.


pH – 5.5-5.8 (5.8 is ideal)
PPM’s – Seedling Stage (18/6)
First week = 0 ppm
Second Week = 250-300ppm - Empty Reservoir

Vegetative Stage (18/6)
First Week = 600 ppm
Second Week = 600 ppm - Empty Reservoir
Third Week = 600-800ppm
Fourth Week = 800ppm - Empty Reservoir

Flowering Stage (12/12)
First Three Days = 0ppm (i.e. distilled water)
First & Second Weeks = 900-1000ppm - Empty Reservoir
Third & Fourth Weeks = 1100-1200 ppm - Empty Reservoir
Fifth & Sixth Weeks = 1100-1200ppm - Empty Reservoir
Seventh Week = 600 ppm - Empty Reservoir
Eighth Week = 0 ppm

Reservoir Temperature – This is very important because if the water gets too warm, it will encourage root rot. The hydrogen peroxide that you have been adding will help to combat this, but you still need to keep the temperatures between 62-72 F or 17-22 C.


This is the chart which shows what specific nutrients are available at various pH’s. Check out the one on the right, the one on the left is for soil.

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August 7, 1765: "--began to seperate (sic) the Male from the Female Hemp at Do--rather too late."
George Washington's Personal Diary

good post!

can you post some pics of your setup

also i've been growing dwc for about a week and a half now, and my plants have just started to grow their second leaf set. By your guide i should have 4 leaf sets already...is it just my strain? i'm just using some bag seed

feeding schedule is useful, good post Quick questions: Is there any problem with using the 4" or 6" net pots versus the larger ones? I assume that the stalk won't grow greater than 4" in diameter in one veg/flower cycle.

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Flora nova nutes have organic compounds that are not compatible with H202, also 3 capfuls of 3% is not nearly enough to provide any benefit . . . .

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A garden of gratitude must first be cultivated in a mans soul before any seed will grow for him.Hydro Q's
My Journal

nice guide.. would you say dwc is the easiest system as far as hydro for noobs??I know it is the most cheapest to build yourself..also dont you think you can fit more plants in 1 area with a rubbermaid container than just 1 dwc bucket that can grow 1 plant..

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http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...hung-2xak.html
2nd grow journal dinafem freebies

i would say dwc is the easiest system. it can also be the most touchy as far as temps go, but i think it is the easiest to work with and build. Yeah, you can definitely do the rubbermaid thing (either-or is fine). I know that Flora NOva supposedly has some organic component to it, but I don't add enough H202 to kill everything in there. Just a constant very low level will keep that root rot away and still let the organic part do its job. I've worked in a molecular/biotech lab before and sometimes we add antibacterials to test tubes in VERY small amounts. Not because it kill everything, but because it can limit the rate of growth to what you want. I think sometimes people have this idea in their mind that it is an either-or type of thing in terms of killing bad bacteria or not. But really it is a continuum that you can keep in check and add small amounts while still allowing the good bacteria to flourish and outcompete any fungus or anaroebic bacteria.
And as far as the 4" or 6" pots go, you can go with either if your doing a rubbermaid, but those won't fit on top of a 5 gallon bucket, unless they have a really big rim or something, but i've never seen them.
Here is a pic of my setup.

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August 7, 1765: "--began to seperate (sic) the Male from the Female Hemp at Do--rather too late."
George Washington's Personal Diary

The time limit is the "usual" time frame and is more or less arbitrary. Sometimes the first hydro will start off a little slow, but once it gets to the second set of leaves, just follow the nute concentrations according to the time-frame and its size and you should be fine.

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August 7, 1765: "--began to seperate (sic) the Male from the Female Hemp at Do--rather too late."
George Washington's Personal Diary

okay..I plan on building a couple myself to start a s.o.g. im just waiting for my clones to root.Then ill veg them up some and cut more clones from the clones..so how far does the big mesh pot sit in the res..if i use a 5 gal bucket how high should the res be from the bottom of the pot??

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2nd grow journal dinafem freebies

The mesh buckets are actually designed for the 5 gallon bucket. However far down it goes, usually sits about a little less than a foot off the bottom. Just fill up the bucket until the bubbles are just barely splashing the bottom of the net. When it grows bigger, leave a 1/2" to a 1" of airspace between the bottom of the mesh pot and the water level.

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August 7, 1765: "--began to seperate (sic) the Male from the Female Hemp at Do--rather too late."
George Washington's Personal Diary

can u say how to actually build the grow setup, eg. what to do with the buckets, setting up the tubes etc.