Mites, and how to rid yourself of them..

Buddy Ganga

Active Member
Just looking to fill a board with different ideas and ways to deal with the pesty mites.

Lately I've been using a newer product called "lady bug". I like it over neem or agro max because you can use it daily and if done right you can use it in flower. But like any other solution it just keeps them at bay creating a hostile environment for them..

I still use neem and agro max from time to time to keep the pests from developing a resistance for any one chemical.

Sure do with they had something that actually kills them all off for good, but until they come up with something we'll keep fighting to good fight..

So what do you use to protect your garden from the pesky varmites ?
 
oh man they're a terror. What stage are you in flower? If you're 5 and later, then your best bet is to use neem oil. But that didn't help out so much for us...it only stunted their growth. If this harvest is really important, your best bet is to try different variations of natural sprays and tough it out. If it isn't, cut it and replant. However, if you replant or even for the next harvest, these bitches will be back. I suggest inbetween grows, to use Hot Shot Strips or someother nasty chemicide. This will purge your room in a week and you may need to put it back into your room in the first 2 weeks of your next flower. If you're already early in your harvest, go ahead and try them out now.

If you look it up, some peeps will disagree and say hot shot strips are 'bad'...just don't inhale it and use it when the buds are forming. It'll take at least 2-3 weeks or longer to get rid of the chem on your plants...so don't use it too late into harvest. But, they are a sure fire way of killing any pest in your room.
 

Rj41

Well-Known Member
I had mites once.
I used Hot Shots strips.
Never had mites since.
Works on gnats and every other insect too.

Don't use 'em if your grow area is near your living space though.
 

bertiswho

Active Member
Try a product called mighty wash, i hear it works wonders on spider mites and its basically water so its super safe.
 

Buddy Ganga

Active Member
After doing some more research I'm looking into a CO2 blast filling the tent up to about 10,000 ppm for a couple of hours.
Since the lights should be on there is a need to use an alternate lighting so the hps doesn't burn the shit out of everything..
This will suffocate the bugs, along with anyone stuck in the room..lol

Anyone ever hear of this ?
 

bob harris

Well-Known Member
After doing some more research I'm looking into a CO2 blast filling the tent up to about 10,000 ppm for a couple of hours.
Since the lights should be on there is a need to use an alternate lighting so the hps doesn't burn the shit out of everything..
This will suffocate the bugs, along with anyone stuck in the room..lol

Anyone ever hear of this ?
It works..kinda. Like everything else, it knocks the population way down at a minimum. I've gotten to the point where I treat for mites with neem every week in veg, whether I see them or not. Then I treat in flower for the first few weeks , alternating between neem and insecticidal soap. Seems prevention of infestation is easier than killing one off..at least for me.
 

Buddy Ganga

Active Member
You guys are FUCKING awesome, lets see how many different remedies we can collect and offer others.
Gotta love choices and good information..
 

Buddy Ganga

Active Member
Check this guy out.... FUCK me running...lol

https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/372298-spider-mites.html


the cure


my garden is on a perpetual harvest every 10 days and therefore letting spider mites take hold would be devastating. not to say i don't have outbreaks, but they have to be controlled. i use a multi-facet approach to spider mites. my lights run at night, so during the day i use a photo-period safe green headlamp to tend my garden in lights off. my lights off work inculdes spraying the plants with my neem oil mix on mondays during lights off, on wednesdays i use co2 at 10,000 ppm for one hour, then fridays i use a cinnamon/clove oil spray. don't use the same control every time; they adapt far to easy for that. the reason you hear about "super mites" is because growers who use mixes that are less than lethal are not killing the mites, they're teaching the mites to adapt to the new environment. before getting to the controls, i would like to discuss the benefits to each method listed below.

NEEM OIL

so almost everybody knows this one. what some may not know is why it works. basically, neem oil is a natural combination of over 1000 chemicals or agents. obviously some of these make the awful bitter smell that we're all used to, but they serve many more purposes as well. many of the chemicals in neem oil are actually similar to hormones produced in many pests, mites included. neem oil doesn't directly cause death; it confuses the mites, and causes them to lose their desires to eat and mate and therefore greatly stunts population growth. it is ineffective against eggs, however it is absorbed/redistributed by the plant and can have some residual effects.

CINNAMON OIL

everybody knows it smells like the holidays lol, but its much more useful than meets the eye. cinnamon's chemical heat is a pretty big deal. it's a catalytic chemical reaction. when sprayed on pests, it weakens the exoskeleton, and dries the pest out. in addition, when mixed with other oils cinnamon acts as a catalyst and can make those oils more effective. it is an effective control for almost all pests, including thrips, whiteflies, and fungus gnats. in addition, cinnamon is also fungicidal and can control most mold/ mildew infestations with approximately 70% success rate. cinnamon oil is ineffective against eggs, and leaves no residual effects.

CLOVE OIL

you may have heard of "eugenol oils." that's exactly what clove oil is. they cause the exoskeleton to soften, and then dry out. clove is a contact killer, so it has to touch the pest to eliminate it. clove oil leaves no residual pesticidal effects, however the smell of clove is a deterant for pests.

CO2

obviously everybody knows plants need it to live, but not everybody knows how effective it can be killing mites. it's especially useful in the final stages of flowering when no other sprays are an option, and you don't want to use predator bugs for the "popping" and flavor. co2 doesn't directly kill the mites; it displaces oxygen, which mites require to live just like you or me, and they suffocate. this will also kill any other living thing except for your plants, SO DON'T BE IN THE ROOM WHEN YOU FUMIGATE WITH CO2. also, be sure to have a strong exhaust system to remove the CO2 after use. long periods of oxygen deprivation will kill your plants. co2 enriched gardens also experience fewer pest outbreaks.

PEPPERMINT CASTILE SOAP

most soaps will work, but this stuff is made from hemp oil and is 100% organic. it also serves 2 purposes. first, it acts as an emulsifier, so your oil doesn't simply sit on top of your water, but secondly, it is also an insecticidal soap in itself. peppermint will kill most insects. this isn't useful when your fighting mites, but it's nice if you don't know you have an insect problem lol.

SELTZER WATER

BE SURE IT'S SODIUM FREE. the salt can stress the plant out. this stuff is dirt cheap, and it's at every grocery store in the mixed drinks section. it isn't directly insect/miticidal. it helps with control by raising the humidity in the mite's home, making them feed and reproduce slower, and it has a mild amount of co2 which is good for the plant and not for the mites. it also provides many trace elements and can help prevent some nutrient deficiencies as well.

WIPING LEAVES

pretty obvious, this wipes off much of the webbing and also many eggs which are attached to it. this is one of the only safe controls for plants late in flowering, and will be useless if the little bastards make their way inside the bugs. when the web are missing, the mites have a harder time moving around the plant. also, mites can't lay eggs unless there's some webbing to attach them too. this puts most reproductive efforts on hold for at least a day or two while they rebuild they're webbing. in addition to the mite-killing benefits, when you spray the plant twice a week it can eventually clog the stomata on the bottoms of the leaves. these are how the plants breathe, so it's best to keep them clean. this is the only control i recommend during lights on, for obvious reasons.

MONDAYS: NEEM OIL SPRAY

mix 1 oz. neem oil per gallon WARM water. add 1-2 teaspoons DR. BRONNERS PEPPERMINT CASTILE SOAP as an emulsifier. stir until the neem oil has broken up into the water. allow mixture to cool to room temperature, AND BE SURE TO USE OR DISPOSE OF THE MIX WITHIN A FEW HOURS. as soon as neem is mixed it begins breaking down. it cannot be used the next day, so only mix what you'll use.

after mixture has cooled to room temperature, begin to spray all plants up to 3 weeks into flowering. as with all spider mite sprays, be sure to get all leaf surfaces including the underside. after 2 hours, spray all plants with sodium free seltzer water. this will provide additional control to the mites due to the humidity and the mild co2 in the water, but more than anything its good foliar food and it will also wash away some of the residue from the spray. do not leave any residues of any sort of the plant longer than you have to.

WEDNESDAY: CO2 FUMIGATING

find an online co2 calculator for this one. BE 100% SURE YOUR ROOM IS SEALED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS STEP!!! CO2 AT THESE LEVELS WILL KILL EVERYTHING IN THE HOUSE AND YOU WILL ONLY FEEL TIRED FIRST. HEED ALL WARNINGS WHEN USING CO2!!!!! i take my room to 10,000 ppm co2 for approx. 1 hour. after the hour is up, i run a 2 hour exhaust cycle to ensure proper co2 levels are returned. again, i spray all plants up to 3 weeks in flowering with sodium free seltzer water. co2 won't leave a residue, but i feel better knowing the little bastards may be drowning.

FRIDAY: CINNAMON AND CLOVE OIL SPRAY

mix 1/4 tsp. cinnamon oil, 1/2 tsp clove oil, and 1/4-1/2 tsp dr. bronners peppermint castile soap. add 16 oz. plain warm water and shake around till it looks milky and well dissolved. THIS IS A POTENT SPRAY. CINNAMON OIL WILL TORCH YOUR PLANT DURING LIGHTS ON SO NEVER USE DURING YOUR PLANTS "DAY" CYCLE. IT IS ALSO RECOMMENDED TO SPRAY ANY NEW SPRAY ON A FEW TEST LEAVES AND WAITING A COUPLE DAYS TO SEE SIGNS OF STRESS SO YOUR PLANT DOESN'T DIE. after the mixture has returned to room temperature, spray all plants through weeks 3 of flowering on all leaf surfaces. THIS IS A CONTACT KILLER SO YOU MUST TOUCH THE BASTARDS TO KILL THEM.

Again, wait 2 hours and spray all plants with sodium free seltzer water

ADDITIONAL CARE AND PREVENTION:

On a daily basis you MUST sweep the floor, clean up dead leaves etc. don't give the little fuckers a hiding spot. i also recommend spraying all plants through weeks 3 of flowering with cold water 1-3 times per day during lights on to raise humidity in the spider mite zones under the leaves and slow they're feeding/reproducing.

to disrupt the hatching and egg laying processes, i take a soft cotton cloth and damp it with plain water and proceed to GENTLY wipe the undersides of all leaves, including all flowering plants. this is a very long and painstaking process, however it is a physical approach to removing/ killing them but the greatest benefit is that you're disrupting their webbing, which will take at least a day or 2 to rebuild.

if your room exchanges air from outside, attach a fine dust filter to your intake vent and spray it with a good miticide once per week.

you may also run a humidifier during veg to keep the humidity around 60%, which will greatly slow the mite reproduction rates.

if you regularly have spider mites and you grow in soil, i recommend at least giving hydro a try. i run switched from coco to dwc and my breakouts dropped in half. they get constant water in dwc and they don't get stressed as easy.

INVEST IN TEMPERATURE CONTROL. plants like cooler temperatures, 70-77 is almost perfect for cannabis, and spider mites like it 80+. basically, if the plants happy, chances are the spider mites aren't.

once per week, i spray all surfaces in the entire room with the cinnamon/clove oil spray, including the floor, walls, ceiling, tables, the outside of buckets, ducting, everything. i let it sit for an hour, then i mop with the peppermint castile soap and spray peroxide on all surfaces. this 3 step cleaning kills fungus, bacteria, and insects, and i believe it is essential in preventing many plant diseases. IF YOU USE PEROXIDE, DO NOT USE AMMONIA OR BLEACH IN CONJUNCTION.

I hope this helps some people! this is my first post so feedback is appreciated!​


 

Motorbuds

Well-Known Member
Azamax works for sure to control them. My buddy has them in his room but as long as he's using the azamax you won't see one. It's organic so they claim it safe to use the day of harvest. I've hear the hot shot pest strips are the best but they're also hazardous to humans so I'll probably never use them even though it would be tempting :lol:
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member
I use the hot shot strips they work real good it takes a week unnamed.jpgamazon is the cheapest. If your room is closed off use the co2 at nite that way you can leave it in the room longer and heat wont be an issue. An old hippie said go to home depot and get the neem oil that has a wetting agent in it. first time ive heard of that,but he said add it to the water and water the plants with it. Its all organic and it doesn't hurt the plant. I wouldn't do if they are in late flower but that's just me.
 

Beagle

Well-Known Member
I have yet to have a mite problem, but if I did, I would get some Praying Mantis'. Mighty Grow in Jackson use to sell the eggs, not sure if they still do.
 

Capt. Stickyfingers

Well-Known Member
Mighty Wash. I guarantee it beats anything else you read on here. It's non toxic, you can use it all the way up until the day of harvest. 8 oz. is enough for 5 big ones (4ft) and 5 small ones (1ft.) A gallon is only $40. Kills mites and their eggs instantly as well as any other pests you might have on there. I used it once myself and just recently used it on a friends grow that was absolutely INFESTED with mites. All his veg, clones, and flowering plants had mites all over. The worst I've ever seen. I only used about 6.5 oz. and it covered all his plants. He cleaned the walls and shit with bleach water. Long story short, the next morning he couldn't find a single living mite anywhere and hasn't seen one in over 3 weeks from one treatment. If you get the wash, I'd get a 360 sprayer so it's easier to spray under the leaves. I makes a real fine spray too so it conserves on the Mighty Wash, less is wasted.
Mighty%20wash.jpgHP-360SPRAYER32-SL.jpg

Anyone that thinks what they have works better has NOT tried this.
 

jordanlady

Member
I use the Mighty Wash once a week. And the mites are under control. I shut all fans and lights off, then spray under the leaves and on top of the leaves. I'm satisfied with the Mighty Wash!
 

Capt. Stickyfingers

Well-Known Member
I use the Mighty Wash once a week. And the mites are under control. I shut all fans and lights off, then spray under the leaves and on top of the leaves. I'm satisfied with the Mighty Wash!
Once a week? That's overkill man, you're wasting a lot of money. Use it once. Then if you ever happen to get mites again, then use it again. Once a week is unnecessary.
 

streets

Well-Known Member
I had mites once.
I used Hot Shots strips.
Never had mites since.
Works on gnats and every other insect too.

Don't use 'em if your grow area is near your living space though.
they grow a resistance to those, i had them spinning webs inside of a newly opened hotshot strip... pretty fucked up.. azomax for flowering plants 5 weeks or later, flora mite for anything less than 4 weeks flowering. seems to work pretty well if you can afford it, azo=100 bucks, flora mite = 300
 

streets

Well-Known Member
I use the hot shot strips they work real good it takes a week View attachment 1895904amazon is the cheapest. If your room is closed off use the co2 at nite that way you can leave it in the room longer and heat wont be an issue. An old hippie said go to home depot and get the neem oil that has a wetting agent in it. first time ive heard of that,but he said add it to the water and water the plants with it. Its all organic and it doesn't hurt the plant. I wouldn't do if they are in late flower but that's just me.
it works in small areas, for a while... my 14x17 room would need 5 or 6 to properly work. i have animals in the house, no way would i put that much poison in my home.
 

probo24

Well-Known Member
I use hot shots and have found as well, mites can become resistant to them.
I sprayed with Mighty Wash at the first sign of leaf damage from
hot shot resistant mites. Damage was local to one small lower area of one plant.
So far no new mites, nor have they spread to any other plants, or any new parts of the damaged plant.
I sprayed once around 4 weeks ago. The affected plant will be cut tomorrow.
A skeptic at first, since I found Mighty Wash in the smaller, cheaper jug I decided to try it.
It seems to do what it says and is the easiest, cleanest spray i've used.
 
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