1Tbls per qt is ridiculous. Especially when recommending a nutrient you have no experience with. Follow the directions. Odds are good you will be using between 1 and 4ml per liter. Not 15 to 20.
I apologize for the typo.... I meant a tablespoon per gallon. That was an amateur mistake, and I...
It is because Cation and Anion properties of those nutrients. This is from GreenHouse Grower: It may shed some light on it.
CEC And Buffering
CEC has been used historically to describe the buffering capacity of soil (mainly based on crops grown in field soils). Buffering means the resistance...
Not familiar with BioBizz, but I would check that label for dosage though. 1 or 2 ml per litre is what I would feed a clone seedling. After good root development you should be around 15 to 20 ml per litre. Or about a Tablespoon per quart. What is your Ph and TDS?
What do most people use for R/O systems to raise Ph? Does everyone use the standard Ph Up? (potassium carbonate/silicate)
Has anyone used Calcite filters for R/O? (calcium carbonate)
My Ph after R/O is 5.9 Thats before adding anything! Just wondering if there was any...
The coating on the inside of the tent has a rough texture to disperse light evenly without hot spots. Atleast thats the theory. It is no better than aluminum foil. That chrome mylar on the roll you are talking about is much better at reflecting light. It is mirror like except for one major...
Are there others having a severe Ph drop from R/O systems? I am wondering if everyone uses the standard Ph Up. (potassium carbonate/potassium silicate)
Or does anyone have experience with Calcite Filters? Seen a couple of 10" Calcite filters around online.(Calcium Carbonate instead of...
Water quality is a key factor affecting pH and nutritional management in container-grown crops. Understanding a few technical details about water quality will help you improve nutrient management appropriate for your own greenhouse. In this article, we will discuss the difference between water...
And please, people......start reading some botanical books of some kind... Atleast visit ICMAG.com and read some experienced authors.
There is a lot of misinformation on this one thread alone...
Good genetics is what makes trichome production happen. I can grow a strain like lemon haze or sharksbreath with the absolute worst care, overfeeding it, no water for days, too hot, what ever and they still get smothered in triches. No noticible difference in potency.
Just stick with growing...
I have read of a few strains of autos that need a starter boost of 12/12 to shock them into auto. I am going to assume that is because of improper breeding, maybe allowing some unwanted traits from an F-2 parent to sneak in.
Thats a tough question to answer without knowing all the details about the plants ancestry. There is no way to know if any environmental factors may have affected the parents in some way to cause your plant to not flower. IMO, I would probably go to 12/12 for two reasons, 1: you know 12/12...
What is the Ph of that well water? Have you checked? I almost want to say that it looks like lockout about to begin. But if your Ph is in range then it is probably something simple.
Also, you said you wanted to go natural. Does that mean you dont wont to add nutes? Unless you have...
Im not sure why you wouldnt just get a 10 dollar timer and switch to 12/12 after 2 months anyways. Why not flower with 12 hours of light if you can and save the electricity.
I understand the convenience of not having to do anything with lighting but is it that inconvenient to flip a switch...
And about the cfl's getting hot.. remember cfl's are very different. T-12 tubes are only 40 watts and they are 4 feet long and almost 2 inches in diameter and the ballast is located away from the bulb so the heat is spread out, therfore they only get a little warm. Those little curly bulbs...