Mr. Hyroot,
Your SIP with air stones in the res is the best idea I've seen so far (just my opinion). I'm using homemade worm castings in living soil too, but I haven't gotten a recipe dialed in yet. I'm having trouble with moisture uniformity in large pots and this seems to solve that issue...
This gives me an idea. Would it make sense to use Ledil Angelina reflectors on say 90% of your COBs@ 3500K then mix in a few 5000k evenly throughout without optics to get a good spread of the higher color temperature all over the canopy?
Also, if they're at the same distance from the canopy, the plants beneath the lenses are receiving a significant amount of light from the bare COBs (delivering at 115 degrees, basically everywhere). This kind of ruins the accuracy of comparisons.
I would think if you have used adequate COB spacing on your heatsinks that the room's oscillating fan will do the trick very nicely. Especially with remote drivers. I just have a concern about a heat trap under the lenses. I could be totally wrong, though. I'm wrong all the time. :dunce:
I still have a lot to learn, thanks. I thought red was related to stretching because of the differences between MH and HPS I've observed.
So it would be ok to just wire my deep reds into the same driver as the COBs assuming there's room then?
This makes a lot of sense to me.
Let's say, for example, I have a bar with 125 watts of cxb3590 3500k running on 36" heatsink @700mA. Would it make sense to add 20 watts of deep red? 10 watts? I would be using 350mA drivers with on/off switches so I could avoid too much stretch and turn the...
So I've read that running at a lower current results in each COB running at a slightly reduced voltage, but I haven't been able to find out how to calculate it on my own. I'm basically trying to determine how much room is left over on each of my drivers. Can someone show me how to determine...