New leaves are yellow! And its spread across all plants! HELP PLZ :(

Hello, I use a 120x 120 x 200 hydroponic mylar tent
A single desktop fan blowing air around the tent ( I have opened holes at the bottom of the tent and 1 at the top hoping this will help act as temporary ventalation until I can afford better.
The room is always 70-80F tempreture and mabye 55-65 nighttime
I give them 18 hrs 6 hour dark a day
There soil is a mixture of miricle grow perlite and bio bizz PH 6 soil
I use aged tap water
I have been using Baby Bio NPK 10.6-4.4-1.7 several drops diluted into Ph 6 water
I have no real routine of feeding no real idea to be honest
I Don't know what to do now white pistiles have started to appear, is this the flowering stage? blooming stage? and what things diffrently do I do?


MY MAIN PROBLEM IS THE YELLOWING PATCHS ON NEW VEGATATION AMONST ALL PLANTS.




I am growing 1x amphetimine automatic ( 1 month - 1 week old )
,1x amnesia automatic, ( 2 weeks old )
1x berry ryder automatic ( 2 weeks old )
+ my largest and first plant is a mystery plant mainly sativa by its shapes and slow growth, and is now a confirmed female! ( as of today ) - 3 months old ( 1 month was frozen as it was found outside in winter conditions alive but stunted )


My suspicions consisted of:

Diesease that has enter the enviroment

Over feeding/under feeding

Light patterns messed up due to electrical issues

Smoking weed laced with harmfull tobacco in the same room ( almost everyday )

Lack of C02 or oxygen?




Things to take note of:

The plants are still growing fine

Pistiles have started to appear and aroma's are activating. ( suspect they might need diffrent treatment I dont know about at this stage? )

Bottom leaves ( already exsisting leaves aswel ) have not been effected.




Anybody who comments with advice I am very greatfull for you are doing me such a big favor thank you

Noobus,
You should study up before you get this far...but since that isn't happening. Looks like a Mg deficiency to me. That striped pattern on the leaf. I use Epsom salts...maybe a half tsp/gal should be enough.

About feeding, since you have some Mg soil in the mix, you don't want to overdo it. Make sure you let them dry between watering and maybe add a little nutrients every third watering. Later on, in 3 or 4 weeks, you might add some bloom food.
JD

Environment sounds fine so it must be your soil. MG will do that...

IDK? Not done Auto's yet(well I started Germ 5x KC 45 today)

Noobus said:

1x amphetimine automatic - 5wks Old
1x amnesia automatic - 2wks Old
1x berry ryder automatic - 2wks Old
1x Mystery - 12wks Old?

Click to expand...

Maybe This Help??

View attachment 3034812
and a bit of Auto Info(Though How Correct IDK) :-

Taken from the "growersguidetocannabis"


~ Link ~ http://growersguidetocannabis.com/10-top-tips-for-autoflowering-plants-a-better-yield/


So here are our 10 Top Tips for a Better Autoflowering Yield!


Size of Pot


Even for dwarf autos you need to be using a 3 gallon pot to give the plant enough space to develop a good rootball.


A good light mix


A nice light mix such as 50:50 cocoerlite is best as it makes sure you get a good wet-dry cycle.


AVOID OVERWATERING AT ALL COSTS


Give NO NUTRIENTS AT ALL until the autoflowering cannabis plant has developed 4 nodes. The dose should only be introduced gradually and in increments.


Continue vegetative feed until ALL upward growth stops. The auto will have started flowering before this happens (in a 9-10 week auto, you would expect to continue using veg nutes until week 6)


Ensure the genetic material (that’s technical talk for Cannabis Seeds guys!) that you start off with is of good, well bred and viable stock. Check what other growers are / have been growing and how well the strain did.


For maximum grams (oz) / foot, make sure you have 16 dwarf/short autos in a 4 ft x 4 ft (1.2m x 1.2m) area


Go easy on the nutes. Generally less is better in most cases.


Don’t give them too much light to start with. Go for a low watt fixture for seedling growth, increasing the amount of light as the plant develops.


Autos don’t appreciate being transplanted. They just don’t have time to recover from transplant shock in their mad dash from seed to harvest. So don’t do it! Either sow the auto seed direct into their 3 gallon pot or better still, follow the direction below:


1) Cut the bottom off a “party cup” or 7-10cm pot.

2) Place 2″ of damp cocoerlite in the bottom of a 3 gallon pot

3) Fill the larger, 3 gallon pot with coco-perlite (dry)

4) Bury the “party cup” or 7-10cm pot half way down in the 3 gallon pot. Fill this with coco-perlite too.

5)Now plant your germinated seedling into the party cup and water in as usual.

6) When you water your auto-flowering seedling(and remember no.3 above!!)make sure you water ONLY in the small pot for the first 10-14 days. This will ensure that the seedling gets the water it requires (and depending on its age, the nutes too).

7) In the meantime the auto’s tap root will hunt downwards with accelerated growth hunting out the damp layer of coco-perlite it just knows exists at the bottom of the 3 gallon pot. The tap root sends out a vast network of smaller fine root hairs also looking for this source of water.


Result?


This method of growing autos pushes your autoflowering plant to develop a highly developed root system that will accelerate root growth (and thereby maintain larger plant growth) during the first few weeks of its life.


It also avoids transplant shock which, given an auto’s automatic race towards harvest, it cannot recover from naturally.

AND NEXT ONE:-

Idiots Guide to Auto Flowering - By bigandy(ThcTalk)_20_12_11


Idiots Guide to Auto Flowering


Plenty of growers are choosing auto-flowering marijuana seeds for their continuous harvest setups. These fast growing marijuana strains, from seed to bud within two months, are perfect at supplying an enthusiast with weed all the time.
Unlike traditional continuous harvest setups requiring multiple grow rooms, auto-flowering marijuana seeds can be grown in the same space because the light cycle does not need to be changed. Making auto-flowering marijuana plants perfect for continuous harvesting or people with very small spaces to grow grass in.


How is this achieved?


Eighteen hours of light per day is recommended from start to finish. Switching light cycles down to twelve hours will diminish auto-flowering marijuana yields.
It's important you stagger the planting of your auto-flowering marijuana seeds.
Plant new seeds immediately when males are removed or marijuana buds are harvested. This ensures your grow room is always full and always producing fresh buds.
Male marijuana plants will show themselves within 17 - 20 days. About a week earlier than female plants. Remove these male plants and replace with marijuana seeds.
Auto-flowering marijuana seeds grow very well in soil or soil-less systems. If you are considering growing sea of green you can't grow wrong with auto-flowering marijuana strains.


For best results plant your auto-flowering marijuana seeds directly into 1-2 gal.pots. Using smaller pots will simply result in smaller yields. Auto-flowering marijuana strains present amazing new possibilities. These marijuana seeds usually grow no taller than 16-20 inches. 12-16 inches is typical. Light intensity, pot size, and marijuana fertilizer all play an important role in determining the size of your marijuana plants at maturity.
The better the conditions. The bigger the yield.


How to use marijuana fertilizer on auto-flowering plants?


After the first two weeks of growth, auto-flowering marijuana seeds should begin a light feeding of a grow type nutrient solution, with micronutrients. When the marijuana plants pass into full flower, they should be started on a bloom regime. About weeks 4 through 6.


Root stimulator have shown to increase growth dramatically. Remember when using marijuana fertilizers that less is more. And don't forget to flush.


Given it's quick growth it's important to pay extra attention to marijuana fertilizers. You should consider two weeks of vegetative fertilizer and four weeks of bloom fertiliser.


Auto-flowering marijuana seeds grow one main cola. Though with plenty of great light they are known to develop some side branching.


Marijuana buds are compact with excellent bud/leaf ratio. Thick pistils with orange coloration, and medium-sized, individual calyxes. Yield and height are dependent on obvious growth factors. For example, marijuana plants kept in small peat cups on a windowsill may yield as little as 1 g. and grow no taller than 6 inches, with no branching whatsoever; while a plant in a 4-gallon container under high-intensity lighting and good cultivation methods, can turn into a profusely branched, two-foot wide 45-gram bud monster.


What is the marijuana high like?


Awesome.


There are several different kinds of auto-flowering marijuana strains that taste and have an amazing high. The original Lowryder and Lowryder #2 have hints of Northern Lights and Williams Wonder, while Automatic AK47 and Masterlow both live up to their original strain pedigree.


Source:


Not telling - but I never wrote this found it on the net thought you guys might find it useful.


Not that anyone is following this grow..

That's ALL I've found for now, doing some reading up myself on Auto's at the moment..

Well it was, just found this OLD Post on R.I.U. here's a Link ~

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/207835-joint-drs-grow-guide-auto.html#post2666352

Peace, and hope you sort...

Looks like its needing some additional Potassium. Looking at the ratio of the nutes you are using would confirm this.

I think it's overwatering or something. Nitrogen is absorbed at all kinds of PH so it's not that but it definitely needs nitrogen. Something is preventing nitrogen uptake.
My 2 cents.. I'm a hydro guy but the botany is the same

Hey Noobus is that Birmingham UK or US....

Uk brother

Wow! alot of help cheers mate!

Probably a bit late, and I'm not a soil grower, but I have always been taught to flush at the first sign of trouble like this. Could be build-up in the soil, so flush it well with ph'd water. Measure the PH and EC of the run-off to see if they are within acceptable limits. It's much more hassle to flush in soil than hydro though. I know people say soil is easier (more forgiving) but I have always been hydro. Never really tried soil. Unless you are trying to grow connoisseur quality then I would go hydro. And let's face it - if you're a newb then your results are unlikely to compete with dutch coffee shops whether you go soil or hydro. You will probably cock-up the drying and curing, so why try connoisseur style?
To flush in hydro you empty your res and refill with just ph'd water (no nutes). Let that run for a while (depending on your system you will leave it like this for more or less time). To flush in soil I believe you pour your ph'd water through the pots until it runs out of the bottom, collecting some to test the levels. I don't think you can overdo it this way, as you want it to run through completely (then let it dry out of course, before next watering, which I believe would be back to your schedule of feeding)