Leaf Edges Turning Purple & Leafs Folding? (pics)

skunkpunk13

Active Member
not to change the subject but for all the stoners on this site there sure are alot of uptight and rude as fuck people!!!!! cant we all just smoke a bong???bongsmilie
 

dan2581

Active Member
Why be so scared of mg soil, if its your only choice then go with it but if you can get hold of soil that hasn't got slow release ferts in it then maybe consider the change! Either way you are seeing nute deficiency from the plant being rootbound in a small cup, yer it could be potassium deficiency but i'd like to say macro/micro deficiency, maybe monoblyedon etc etc

The point is that that plant has a good dense root system and a quite thick trunk for that size plant, it has sort of stunted, you should have transplanted sooner so lesson for the next grow you do, when a few roots poke out of the holes at the bottom of the pot its almost time to transplant to new bigger pot, when they start to poke out and fill the hole a little and you have quite a few roots its definatly the right time to repot, any later than this and hey presto you get your plant. Now to repot that small thing into a big bucket would be wrong, a slightly bigger pot with a good volume of area for the roots to spead out and feed would be best and then after that a slightly bigger pot again. Work your way up to a bucket as you need your roots to fill the space in order to drink the nutes and absorb the water and dry the soil somewhat. The right size pot for the right size plant will allow you to gain better watering techniques and practices.

Now if you stick with the mg on the repot then ok don't use nutes for a long time and keep on repotting to a flowering size pot. Nutes might become an issue in flowering because the slow release will still be going but hey they might need topping with each watering but from what i hear probably not much. The moisture in the soil activates the fertilizer so you don't want the pot wet for long periods of time so the right size pot in relation to the plant is important again. If you can get hold of non slow release ferts soil like fox farm i would probably go with that after writing this and still you won't have to fertilize for a few weeks again. Hope this can help you out in some way, good luck.
Why be so scared of MG? Because it is not made for growing weed! Who wants to waste 3 long months of time, money, and risk of freedom to never produce? It was made for houseplants, outdoor gardens, home shit like that. Not for weed. Your way better off finding the best dirt you could in nature, adding in some compost or guanos, dolomite lime, and perlite.

This is not nutrient deficiency from being rootbound. Miracle grow is extremely rich in nutrients, it is nutrient lockout. Somehow phosphorus is not getting into the plant as it needs to, therefore, since phosphorus is a mobile element, it is transfering it's phosphorous from the lower leaves to new growth to continue growing, hence the purpling. Nor is this related to micro nutrient deficiency at all. Micro nutes are mainly immobile elements, which show the first symptoms at the top of the plant, because they are immobile.

Has anyone used or heard of mg organic soil, think it says for fruit and veg on the front but i was wondering how they made a time release fertilizer that was organic, i would considor using it to see what it was like as i have always stayed away from the mg range but would take a chance on this as the only organic soil in my area of the uk. Thanks.
I think the organic MG contains low or no nutrients.

Do you have any idea of what you are talking about?
Yeah I actually have a REALLY good idea of what i'm talking about.


The plant is not big enough to have out grown the cup yet bad soil or not. Once again, do you have any idea of what you are talking about?
Someone didn't use hooked on phonics like mommy told them to. Did you fail to read the part where I said theres no way that tiny plant could have become rootbound in the cup. Do you have any idea what YOUR talking about? Nah, didn't think so.


Great constructive response. You really bring a lot into the conversation. I'll explain to your dumb ass how weed growing works. Basically, MG potting soil is full of time release fertilizers. This is not made for marijuana, and when planted in this soil, it consumes more nutrients then others, and some are added through the time-release process. This causes many pH fluctuations and acidic nutrient lockouts. Therefore his plant cannot take up phosphorus. Damn, must have taken Einstein to figure all that shit out.


ARE YOU JUST MAKING SHIT UP TO SOUND LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING? I dare you to post any I mean ANY relevant research to what you just said is true. You attempted to make 5 points there I look forward to your response to them.
No, I've actually grown a lot of weed, I have done lots of research online (from credible sources, not the people like you), read PLENTY of books (once again, credible resources), I help people on a day to day basis online and real life with these types of issues (and actually help them fix it RIGHT), and lastly i've made plenty of my own mistakes over the years, which is where the best knowledge comes from.

A simple google search would back up all of my information in a heart beat. I feel no need to prove anything to a 14 yr old with shitty experience, because you have no idea what YOUR talking about.

Well that explains EVERYTHING!!
Haha, you can edit/change my post if you'd like. Anyone who actually read the thread would clearly understand I was saying don't take my constructive criticism as an insult, because i'm just trying to help.

dan2581 said:
Please don't take that as an insult, but I work at a hydroponics store and watch people throw their time and money down the toilet every day. It saddens me when I started with virtually nothing and still produced and progressively got better each time, and thats true to this day. Even using my same genetic over and over, my results have always gotten better.
See the underlined part? That is the reference to me working at a hydroponics store. Oh wait, you added a nice little period after the word store to try and make me look like I am better than everyone else. If I didn't know any better, your just pretty mad because you got schooled today and learned something new. And realized your fuckin wrong.

hmmm... do YOU have any relevant research to back you up? people are trying to help here yo. and you seem to hold a minority opinion. so I think it's up to you to "prove" you're right.

btw the dude who is needing the help can also check very easily if the plant has outgrown the cup or not. just lift it before watering.
Looks like I'm not the only one thinking this way. :)

not to change the subject but for all the stoners on this site there sure are alot of uptight and rude as fuck people!!!!! cant we all just smoke a bong???bongsmilie
There are stoners, weed growers, and kids on this site. Most growers/stoners are cool and grown up.I'm definitely a grown up grower and stoner, but when little kids like to cop an attitude and act like they have growing longer than they were born, I gotta lower myself to their level to do some schooling and get my point across clearly .The little kids who think they know everything from watching other peoples online grows and read a bunch of bullshit information from online become 'experts' and further spread around all this bullshit information. They forget people like me have actually been doing this and have learned from experience and mistakes, that is the true way to learn this plant. It's OK though, we are the ones with successful results, and people like sparkafire still haven't produced a half decent bud yet.
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Potassium def starts on leave margins but causes browning not purpling. This is probably related to phosphorus because he said his ambient temps are 75 which are OK, and not cold stress.
Rereading I made the mistake confusing Potassium and Phosphorus. You win that one although if one is missing the other is most likely deficient as well but you can have the win :hump:


Foilar feeding is not very effective on sick plants (or healthy plants for that matter), the leaves are taking damage and trying to repair themselves, not uptake nutrients. Another common myth is that you spray the tops of the leaves, all that will do is leave salt residue on your plant surface. The stomata are on the bottom of the leaves and that's how it can take in nutrients. These are only open around 72 degrees, which further makes foilar feeding pretty ineffective.
also what are the temp it could be to cold and its locking out pk in the soil which is what some growers do during flowering to get the buds purple....in which case doing what spark said will only kill them by causing a toxic build up....
This is where your ego and inexperience got into the way and you "I am the expert because I work in a hydro store" and "my mom taught me this trick "over stepped your knowledge base then attacked me as the bad guy because I said for him to foliar feed until the plant was better. Both of you are guilty of giving misinformation because of your lack of knowledge.

That being said, unlike you not only do I foliar feed my plants regularly I chased down the reference points as to why foliar feeding is a great way to help plants get back on track. I have highlighted the key points for you to suck on:finger:

From Wikipedia
Foliar feeding


Foliar feeding is a technique of feeding plants by applying liquid fertilizer directly to their leaves.[1] It has been known for many years that plants are able to absorb essential elements through their leaves. :hump:The absorption takes place through the stomata of the leaves and also through the epidermis. Movement of elements is usually faster through the stomata, but the total absorption may be as great through the epidermis. Plants are also able to absorb nutrients through their bark. What? how could this be? "I work in a hydro store" :clap:

A popular version of the feeding is to use sea-based nutrient mixes, especially kelp, because they contain many of the fifty "trace nutrients"; the more "trace" is needed, the harder it is to balance the element within the soil. Trace elements are considered most fit for delivery by foliar feeding. Kelp also contains some hormones considered good for the cellular development of the plants' leaves, flowers, and fruit, again making foliar feeding useful to organic gardeners who eschew artificial hormone applications.

Effectiveness

"Dr. H.B. Tukey, renowned plant researcher and head of the Michigan State University (MSU) Department of Horticulture in the 1950s, working with research colleague S.H. Wittwer at MSU, first proved conclusively that foliar feeding of plant nutrients really works. MmmmmYummy :hump:Researching possible peaceful uses of atomic energy in agriculture, they used radioactive phosphorus and radiopotassium to spray plants, then measured with a Geiger counter the absorption, movement, and utilization of these and other nutrients within plants. They found plant nutrients moved at the rate of about one foot per hour to all parts of the plants."[2]
Foliar feeding is considered especially useful for introducing trace elements, or for "emergency" feeding of plants which are found to have a specific shortage. Are you full yet? :finger:But in some cases, with tomatoes, for example, it is believed that foliar feeding during flower set causes a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Usage

Generally speaking, it is recommended that foliar feeding be done in morning or evening, since hot days cause the pores on some plants' leaves to close.

The stomata are on the bottom of the leaves and that's how it can take in nutrients. These are only open around 72 degrees, which further makes foilar feeding pretty ineffective.
Completely talking "I work in a hydro shop" there for I know. :hump:

One way to tell if a fertilizer has been effective is to squeeze juice from the leaves of plant and to test it with a refractometer. If after spraying with foliar fertilizer the amount of light refracted significantly rises, then foliar application has worked. To increase effectiveness it is recommended to use a spray enhancer to help the nutrients stick to the leaf and to penetrate the waxy sheen of the leaf.

The better solution for this problem would have been for him to transplant out of the soil (if in fact MG soil is so bad) and foliar feed until the plant looked better.

Discrediting someone ideas ESPECIALLY when you don't know what you are talking about is a bad idea next time just stick to what you know is fact if you dont know look it up.
There is a big difference mixing up a element and giving false information:hump:

I feel no need to prove anything to a 14 yr old with shitty experience, because you have no idea what YOUR talking about.
You are right Dan "The Man I work in a hydro shop" I do not know anything about growing indoors or outside. :finger:
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Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys chilllllllll! I was simply saying that growing weed in mg can be done and if its all you can get then ok you can yeild good bud, hard to do but can be done. Mg is a good soil in a lot of applications and especially flowers, orchids etc etc but for weed it can be tricky. Why do people hate the mg so much rather than just be retrospective with it and helpfull to others if they have put an mj seed in it. I wouldn't recomend a few growing mediums but people use them and do well in them. Miracle grow just needs to be treated differently and if anything simpler to use with balanced nutrients. I like the idea of organic miracle grow being low nutes but think it must be somthing else as it still must be time release some how, maybe it dose hold true to traditional organic values and releases nutes through organic breakdown of composted material.

Anyway how is the plant man and have you bought some soil and repotted? Now might be a good time to sprout a new seed in the new soil if thats what you are buying. Maybe some pics as well so we can be critical of the repotting process.
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Anyway how is the plant man and have you bought some soil and repotted? Now might be a good time to sprout a new seed in the new soil if thats what you are buying. Maybe some pics as well so we can be critical of the repotting process.
Back to the regular scheduled program. :)
 

IVIars

Active Member
Why be so scared of MG? Because it is not made for growing weed! Who wants to waste 3 long months of time, money, and risk of freedom to never produce? It was made for houseplants, outdoor gardens, home shit like that. Not for weed. Your way better off finding the best dirt you could in nature, adding in some compost or guanos, dolomite lime, and perlite.
No soil is made for growing weed. That would be illegal to sell. You working in a hydro shop should know this.
 

Pliffy

Member
So i decided to go ahead and repot (in the same cups) the plants with MG for now cause they seemed to be getting a little worse. Im planning to repot again on Sunday in a bigger pot and using either FF soil or another higher quality soil.

What do yall think?
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
So i decided to go ahead and repot (in the same cups) the plants with MG for now cause they seemed to be getting a little worse. Im planning to repot again on Sunday in a bigger pot and using either FF soil or another higher quality soil.

What do yall think?
I would have re potted now but understand if circumstances would not allow for it but yes you are on the right track.
 

dan2581

Active Member
Your less than credible resource (wikipedia is not really considered a scholarly resource) basically just reinforced what I said. You made a nice effort to refute, but didn't really get much accomplished. I can also tell how your cocky and show it off attitude has taken you very far in your weed growing endeavors. You've already learned its a great idea to take lots and lots of pictures and show it off online when your mad! Enjoy your beasters while they last.

Pliffy, you would definitely be better off buying better soil like ocean forest. I would recommend ocean forest for you because it will have all the readily available nutrients your plant needs and will give you a feel for how it feeds.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
With the problems the plants had it will take a while to show new good growth, carefull repotting you don't stress the plant too much or break many roots. Pics yet?
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Make up guys, wana see how this thread turns out. Sparkfire is ok once you get to know him, even i get snappy on here sometimes lol. Anyway you both got good advice.
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Make up guys, wana see how this thread turns out. Sparkfire is ok once you get to know him, even i get snappy on here sometimes lol. Anyway you both got good advice.
I am not OK I have issues:hump: you are a kiss-ass LOL and he is a douche. Sorry they do not make douche bag cartoons you will just have to visualize a douche bag " I work at a hydroponic" store giving jacked up advice to high school kids that think he is the shit.
 

dirtysnowball

Well-Known Member
blah blah blah your plant is cold at night, 60 and below makes my leaves turn purple then dark purple/red and finally to a near black purple. i've seen it many times in more then just mj plants. it starts at the tips, then goes inward hitting the center vein last. transplant and up nutes to 1/2 strength. most plants can tolerate near full strength.... but on a HOT day it will instantly burn.
 
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