Hey experienced growers out there, I could def use some good quick tips on a series of tough ?'s

Outdoor, (in 5 gal pots)
Organic soil
Camera is broke
Plants where/are too big and beautiful to abandon now, (2 mnths veg outdoor, about 2 wks into flower)


1st- just found a seriously bad fungus gnat infection in my clones soil, heard h202 kills them soo i applied it vigorously to the soil, 2 days later my plants are not doing so well (leaves on plant dying, stems collapsing, edges burning/curling) in addition im pretty sure the larvae from the gnats are still crawling around.

2nd- On top of all the other crap, i found some spider mites on some of my bigger sativa plants,and clones, since its outdoor in pots should i just leave them alone??? already tried organicides and such and i just keep burning the shit outta my leaves and causing more harm to them then the mites where in the first place.

As you can see i could really use some experienced help....Thnx guys

hey by the way found a camera heres a few pics

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I can't solve all your problems but...
I always wondered what would happen if too much h202 was used. It probably killed (oxidised) all of the nessesary beneficial bacteria,and microorganisims in the soil, and now the roots dont have the help they need to assimilate nutrients from the soil. I think you need to replave those micro organisims some how. Add some compost or something like that maybe. I'm not totally sure just theorizing.
A layer of sand on top of the soil will keep bugs from nesting in there and will smoother any eggs already present.
Spider mites will TAKE OVER if you just "leave them alone". They reproduce like cazy!
["Mites by themselves are not aggressive movers. They pretty much stay on the same leaf or nearby leaves for their entire lives. They are moved (vectored) by bird feathers, dog and animal hair, and clothing. They are usually worst in dry dusty conditions, although two spotted mites have been known to thrive even under very wet conditions.

Spidermites thrive in dry (20%-30% humidity), warm(70-80 degrees F) conditions. In temperatures above 80 degrees F, spidermites can reproduce in as little as 5 days, making early detection a necessity.

The most important step you can take to avoid pests is to keep your growroom clean, free of odours, free of bacteria and free of rubbish.
• Keep your environmental conditions as close to perfect as you can, maintaining variables such as temperature, humidity and air quality. Make sure that you have got good air exchange, and keep the air moving.
• After visiting a risk area and before entering your growroom, change clothes to reduce the chance of cross contamination.
• Try not to draw air into your growroom directly from outside if possible. If you do then filter the air, especially in summer.
• Do not let other gardeners or people who may have come from infected areas into your growroom.
• Quarantine any cuttings that have come from other growrooms for a few days (or until you are sure they are free of mites) before introducing them into your growroom.
• Keep pets out of and away from your growroom.
• Stick to quality growing media rather than compost and other bagged media from garden centers. Dedicated hydroponic media is much less likely to contain bugs than standard soil.

Mites usually start becoming a problem in late spring and reach a peak by late summer or just at the peak heat of the season. They are definitely hot weather critters. In cold weather they move and multiply much more slowly. In summer their life cycle is about seven to ten days, that is, hatchlings are laying eggs after a week or two. Any treatment must take this into account. Just killing the adults does little good. Repeat treatments are almost always necessary to kill the emerging mites. In winter they begin moving off trees and shrubs to winter over on grasses.

Mites, like aphids are easily dislodged from the leaf surface, at least before they have a chance to begin building webbing. A weekly hard blast of water can stop an infestation from occuring or slow it down once it starts. However, you must be able to spray the undersides of the leaves. Just hitting the top surface will do little or nothing. Concentrate your attention on the lower parts of the plant. Mites won't be found on the upper and succulent parts of the plant.

If you find more than an occasional mite, and most of the lower leaves have two or more mites and perhaps webbing, you are probably in trouble. Begin lower levels of control. First try blasting them off with a spray of water. Do this about every two or three days. It may or may not work. If the population continues to build, use an insecticidal soap designed for mites (it should be on the label), or introduce predators.

Once mite count reaches about 40 per leaf, the population will really explode and mites will begin moving to other leaves and plants. In the worst cases, they will even begin moving to other species that are usually resistant. Treatment with predator mites at this stage is possible, but difficult and expensive. At this stage you may want to take a more toxic route.

Red spider mites are pretty easily dealt with. You can usually knock them out with water sprays. The big problem is that there are few effective ovicides for mites, so you must follow up in five to seven days with a repeat treatment to kill the hatchlings. Usually three treatments are necessary to end an infestation. Read and follow all label instructions carefully. Do not use more or less than the recommended amount or concentration. Using less can result in breeding mites with resistance to that chemical.

If you have two spotted mites, your job is even harder. These mites are very difficult to control and most are resistant to most miticides. Don't bother using typical over the counter insecticides, they will do nothing. These mites can build a resistance to pesticides very quickly, so repeated use of the same one just breeds new problems for the rest of us. These two spotted mites can still be killed it just takes a more serious approach.

Critics have said that while predators may work in a nursery situation, it won't in a small yard as long as your neighbors are engaging in chemical warfare. I think it is worth a try as long as you have a yard that will provide a complete environment, which usually means some exposed soil, trees and shrubs. In fact predator mites are more useful to small scale operations, than to larger ones such as mine. They can be used to treat individual plants, but long term control means changing the environment, including establishing a population of predators.

You must choose the right predator mite for your situation. There are several species available that are adapted to a particular climate. They have a rather narrow range of humidity and temperature requirements. Predator mites are available from several bio control companies

Predator mites can be expensive. At times, somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 a gram, or $50 to $80 per thousand mites.
Effective treatment is dependent on getting the proper predator mite. Green Methods lists about six, Nature's Control lists three. The most important parameters are temperature and humidity, but there are also other factors such as fast knockdown, early introduction, longevity, etc.
If you have ONE infested plant, I'd say forget it, the mites would cost as much as the plant, but if you have a good size collection and mites are a general problem, including your landscape, it might be a feasible method of control.
Additionally, yes the mites do stick around because bio controls do NOT eliminate the pest but simply set up a dynamic between the two species which keeps the pest from getting out of hand. If you want total control (read elimination) you must use chemicals."]
Good luck!!

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they will snap back, you used way to much though i can tell you that, I only use 3 tbs per gallon on feeding day once a week thats all they need, give then some bottled water or RO water for a few days they will perk up again, might get some loss though, use neem oil next time, get them off the ground on stands or a table, bugs are on the ground as well as animals which carry bugs, you can use 1tsp of rubbing alcohol in spray bottle filled with water and use to detour pest as a perimeter defense

You probably burned the hell out of the root system. What people don't seem to realize, is that while H2O2 can be beneficial in SMALL amounts, it can be quite harmfull in larger doses. H2O2 reacts with and oxidizes organic matter, including the roots themselves, therefore, large amounts of H2O2 will oxidize your roots and kill your plants.

Fungus Gnats are more of a nuisense than they are a problem. The adult fungus gnats are completely harmless, and the larvae only feed on dead organic material (ie. roots that are already dead), so they pose very little threat to the health of a plant. In cases where the larvae are out of control, the best way to deal with them is to lay a piece of raw potato on top of your soil. This draws the larvae out of the soil and into the potato. When the potato is full of larvae (gross as that is!), you just chuck out the potato.

The big downfall in using disinfectants (ie. H2O2, Bleach, etc.) to kill plant pathogens and/or insects is that, in order to effectively kill off insects/pathogens, you have to use a concentration that is also detrimental to the root system of the plant.

I just leached the affected plants see if they perk back up and hopefully yield wont be effected to much....good looks on the tips guys, ill def take those to heart for the next grow. Im gonna try to keep this thread going as a journal/ question forum any and all thoughts will be appreciated.

God I love being a Newb