Little Buggers are eatting my leaves! Helps what are they?!?

GangAman420

Active Member
So a few days ago i noticed a small little infestation of critters in my grow box. I dont know what they are, i dont think they're whiteflys. The're almost translucent in size, resemble a slug, and are the size of the length of the tip of a needle. They've been gorging themselves fat on my big fat fan leaves.. i'm now 5 weeks in flower, already had some issues with these guys and dont wanna stress them out much. Now i did notice that these bugs are sticking majorly to the fan leaves, though i did notice a small minority on the actual cola... here's a result of their munch... and theres these little black spots, noticible in the pic... is that eggs or shit?
 

AllMeatNoPotato

Well-Known Member
Pest Control & Plant Diseases
For Marijuana Cannabis Plants


[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BUGS & PEST[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]CONTROL FOR HEMP-CULTIVATION[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]​
  • [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Because the environment for indoor growing is perfectly suited for a rapid reproduction of bugs, it is important that you have some descent knowledge about them. This way you can recognize a plague in an early stage, and can prevent a lot of damage. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fast response is very important!![/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Preventive intervene[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]with natural predators is the best, if not the only way to protect your sweeties.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]There are a lot of [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]chemical [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]products on the market, but this is for indoor use [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]NOT[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]advisable, because you mostly also live and sleep in the same house![/FONT]
  • [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These chemical products are only for use outdoor, they have a long lifetime and certainly not for use on our smoking-weed!!! We can't warn you enough that unsafe use of any of these products can be dangerous to your, our your relatives health.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]An alternative is using home made brews from soap, garlic etc. this may slow down sometimes the plagues, but mostly the bugs will be resistant.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]We sell some product that are far more efficient but still are 100% biologic, non-toxic to human or plants and have a short lifetime. These products are:[/FONT]
    1. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Bio-best spray[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]available in concentrate or ready to use spray can. This originally was developed for consumer products like fruits and vegetables.[/FONT]
    2. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sticky plates.[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] These are your alarm system for detecting the presence of damaging insects. Almost any insects are attracted to the yellow color of the sticky plates, and the glue on it will keep them stuck on the plates. The plates not only warn you for the presence of harmful insects, but also catch a considerable amount of the population. In this way you can control the plague more.[/FONT]
    3. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Plantprotector[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This stuff leaves an sorta natural acid on the leaves when you spray it. Bugs hate it and will go away.[/FONT]
    4. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Neem-oil[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Probably the best one.It is made from the "neem-tree" It works against more than 200 different insects. It destroys the central nerve system off the buggs. When you spray it, it will leave a sorta "wax-layer" on the leaves, this will stay for about 2-3 weeks.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You can also use beneficials.
Beneficials are small animals which eat and live from the crop damaging insects. Beneficials are completely harmless for mankind, other animals or cultures and can not become plague. Beneficials are introduced in your room when the first damaging insects or the first damage are observed.(yellow leaves, webs, wilted leaves) BIOBEST benificials have a double action because they control both the adult pest insects as their eggs and larvae.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A few bugs and their natural predators are:[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]​
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Greenhouse Spidermite:
These are yellow-brown colored mites with two dark spots on both sides. They measure approximately 0,5 mm. The mites feed by sucking sap from the under surface on the leaf. This induces groups of small white speckles which are clearly seen from the upper surface of the leaf. It will ruin your harvest completely when you don't take countermeasures in time. A nightmare for all growers. In a later stage the leaves will become grey-yellow because all the green has been eaten by the spidermites. Also they will produce a silky spinning which can be noticed on the leaves, and later around the budds. In this stage your harvest will almost be ruined. (make sure to also take a look in our photo section, we have some clear pictures there.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Natural predator : [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Predatory mite[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Sciarid Fly[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]:[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Approximately 6mm long black colored "fly". It is usually found in large numbers. The 5mm white and transparent larva [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]damages[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] the soil and the root system of the plant. When this happens, the absorbing of micro-nutrients will stop, and growth will stagnate. In case of severe root damage, the leafs of the plant will wilt and the whole plant can even fade. The flies themselves are not that harmful, only thing is that they lay their new eggs offcourse, and that they can stick to the buds. (smells like a bbq when you a lot of them in your joint ;=))[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif].[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural predator: [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]NEMATODES[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3. Vine weevil:
are 8-12 mm long, have a grooved, dull black shell with patches of tiny yellow bristles. They will do their damage at night (when the lamps are off) by eating the leaves from the outside to the center. The
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]larvae[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] are 1cm thick and have a creamy white color with a shiny brown head. They live in the oil, and damage the roots. The absorbing of nutrients will come in danger, and as a result the plant wilts and dies off. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural predator: [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]NEMATODES[/FONT]
 

AllMeatNoPotato

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]. Aphids[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]:
Aphids measure around 3mm. They come in many different sorts, and their color varies from light yellow to dark-green, sometimes almost black. Most common are the leaf-aphids and the root-aphids. Both travel by air and spread diseases and infections. They have a thick oval body, no head front knobs and antennae shorter than the body. On their sticky residue which they produce on the leaves (honeydew) appear fungus and mould. Root-aphids destroy the roots with earlier mentioned results.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Natural predator : [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Lace wing or Gallmidge[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]5. Thrips:
Adult thrips are small, elongated insects with typical fringed wings. They measure about 1mm, and have a greyish or yellow to brown color. The female thrips deposits eggs in the leaf tissue. The eggs hatch within a few days into very mobile larvae which immediately begin to feed, Thrips damage the crop by withdrawing the plant cell fluids. Empty cells are filled with air, causing a silvery appearance, on which dark spots (the excrements) are visible. Damage through discoloration or deformation can occur. Moreover, thrips are important vectors of several viruses. Thrips populations can develop very rapidly.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural predator :[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Predatory bug[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6. White fly:
Adult whiteflies measure about 1,5 mm and are typically covered with a white waxy powder. The female whitefly deposits its oval shaped eggs on the underside of young leaves at the top of the plant. They occur in large numbers and multiply rapidly. As well larvae as adults suck plant juices. Secretion of honeydew fouls the leaves and the buds, which become not consumable. Often moulds grow on the honeydew, which stunts photosynthesis and respiration of the plant. Moreover, whiteflies can transmit several viruses. When not intervened in time, the odds are that the plant will not survive the damage.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Natural predator : [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Parasitic wasp[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You may notice some bugs who are not mentioned here, these bugs are mostly friendly bugs, as long as you don't see any clear damage you can spare their live ;=)[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Like normal spiders and ladybugs are good natural predators against some bugs.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BE WISE, DON'T USE ANY CHEMICALS!!![/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Watch your plants for diseases every time you give them water.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When you see any insects that may attack your plant, handle immediately.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Don't use any chemicals, or you may poison yourself!! Especially when spraying close to the harvest.[/FONT]
 

GangAman420

Active Member
i think its been decerned... thanks potato, they're Thrips... found this link with a pick of them... this is their larvae... at this point i'd like to ask if anyone has had any experience dealing with them... what should i get to get rid of the problem, and shoot, what type of iss ue is this going to cause 3 weeks out of harvestingg...
 

AllMeatNoPotato

Well-Known Member
never had so really cannot tell you. I do know you do not want to spray anything on them this close to the end. sure you know why, the whole introducting chemical agents on your bud is bad for a plethora of reasons. you can manage their reproduction by spraying water on the leaves. you could use soapy water but i hate it when my smoke tastes like dawn dish detergent hahaha j/k. i would say just water and wipe the leaves down gently. whatever you do post it here so we all can learn. oh yeah, don't bring a predator into your grow area to kill them. you will get rid of one problem with another. PEACE!
 

Derker

Well-Known Member
i think its been decerned... thanks potato, they're Thrips... found this link with a pick of them... this is their larvae... at this point i'd like to ask if anyone has had any experience dealing with them... what should i get to get rid of the problem, and shoot, what type of iss ue is this going to cause 3 weeks out of harvestingg...

I think I got en too!! what works good on these little bastards?
soaping isn't working.
 

noiseboy

Active Member
High all,

firstly thanx for excellent info, just what I needed!
I have a small infestation of what my local hydro guy said are sciarid fly. I have found small white larva in the bottoms of my pots, ( a haze no2 and grapefruit bowl mother).
He suggested using a product called Gnat off, which I flush through my soil once a day for a week to 10 days.

Was just wondering if anyone one has any other succesful ways of getting rid of these bug(gers)?

Thanx in advance

Noise
 

Attachments

noiseboy

Active Member
:evil::evil::evil:Have Identified the little f**kers that are eating my plants.

now to instigate some murder of little squirmy things:evil::evil::evil:

Noise
 

marzman

Active Member
I had thrips and the silvery damage to your leaves look the same. Little bastards are hard to get rid of. I used MM2000 Every 3 days for 3 times litely misting the plants on a ratio of 75% under the leaves to 25% on top. Remember to do the soil or other medium also as they breed there. If you are too far into flowering to spray then finish those plants off asap and take the loss. It is alot easier to get rid of them in a veg room.
A final note on the Thrips. They cause disease in the plants as well so get on it fast.
 

noiseboy

Active Member
High all,

Got rid of the thrips!! wwwwwoooooooohooooooooooo!!

Used gnat off aser instructions on the bottle and sprayed vegging plants with neem oil and it has worked!!

Noize
 

dotme

Active Member
te=GangAman420;234841]i think its been decerned... thanks potato, they're Thrips... found this link with a pick of them... this is their larvae... at this point i'd like to ask if anyone has had any experience dealing with them... what should i get to get rid of the problem, and shoot, what type of iss ue is this going to cause 3 weeks out of harvestingg...
[/quote]
It's hard to say how much of a problem it will be. If you catch it early, it should be OK. I (and a lot of other folks here in Mendocino, California) use a great product called, "Azatrol." You can get it at most hydro stores, or feed and grain stores/lots. Follow directions. It's expensive, but works very well and is worth the cost. It should be used with a commercial sprayer ($25), but used every 7-10 days will keep virtually all (thrips, mites etc) pests away. It's "broad spectrum," (works on many, many types of pests) acts as a preventitive and inhibits feeding and molting. Very low toxicity, breaks down in a few days. Neem works, as does blended buttermilk and wheat flower (see Marijuana Bible--Google it) but bugs will keep coming back--it has no (or very little) preventive qualities. With bad outbreak(s) you will have to "Neem" every day. That's too much work!!! Get some Azatrol and relax, it will save you a lot of work and anxiety. Also, get a 30X magnifier and check your plants every day during times of peak outbreaks. Catch any unwanted activity early with the Azatrol and you'll be very satisfied with the results. Good luck, and Aloha from Mendo-Land!!! PS/ With clones, it's very, very important to catch any pest activity as early as possible, as they will not tolerate stress like seeded plants.
 

stucklikechuck

Well-Known Member
why did you attach a crotch shot pic??? AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



High all,

firstly thanx for excellent info, just what I needed!
I have a small infestation of what my local hydro guy said are sciarid fly. I have found small white larva in the bottoms of my pots, ( a haze no2 and grapefruit bowl mother).
He suggested using a product called Gnat off, which I flush through my soil once a day for a week to 10 days.

Was just wondering if anyone one has any other succesful ways of getting rid of these bug(gers)?

Thanx in advance

Noise
 

giantart

Well-Known Member
What i have found works best is to buy a pack of American spirit cigarettes (No additives) and remove all of the tobacco, add to a quart of water and simmer for about a half an hour. Then add 1/2 quart of water (Phed of course) and spray under and all over leaves and plant.

Tried Neem Oil for weeks with almost no affect but this solution killed them the first time!! Voila~ it was like a miracle. see what others think but thats what worked for me and i had them bad!!

Commercial greenhousemen are very familiar with nicotine based insecticides. They are also natural and organic.

Good luck!
 

fearless kris

Active Member
Okay, I've searched all the newbie things, all the bug things, and I still don't know what the tiny white wormy things are in my soil, but they are killing my babies! They get more active when I water or run a breeze through the area. They don't look like spider mites, don't look like whiteflys (no flying) - what could they be? And the easiest, lowest impact way of getting rid of them? Please?
 

fearless kris

Active Member
thank you south texas - I've looked at those bugs and none seem to match up. I think they are attacking the roots as there's no real damage to the seedlings, they just whither as a whole. and when i take out the dead plant, it just pulls free of the soil leaving a mushy root. I think I'll try the nicotine as it seems to have the most overall effectiveness. But I'd really like to know what they are and help them move out...
 
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