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#1
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hey guys i transplanted my plants aout 10 days ago, and some of the leaves turned yellow at the tips, i thought this was due to transplanting shock, but it seems to be getting worse... it has generally started at the tips of the lower leaves, the tips turn yellow and then it spreads through the leaf till it turns brown and dies... temp sits on about 75 lights on and i have good airflow while the lights are on.. cant run fans during the night as it will get way to cold... im using 9 20 watt CFLs for 2 plants... i thought maybe it was a water issue so ive been using water that has been left to sit for a couple of days... ive tried letting the soil dry out a bit b4 watering... ive tried using heaps of water but nothing seems to be working... im running out of ideas... help...
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#2
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Should be warmer. How low do the temps get? Fan should run 24/7. You need to fix your temp problem so you can have air circulating all the time.
You need amoisture meter so you know when to water. Do you have good drainage? How old are your plants? Are you giving nutes? At what strenght? |
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#3
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temps can get down to about 60-65 on a cold day here... no nutes... and i cant really use heating using cos im using a system pretty similar to one of the stealth grows mentiond in the growfaq (the one with 2 plastic storage boxes) i bought a moisture meter but it didnt work so i have to buy another one..
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#4
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plants need nitrogen that could be your problem
__________________
http://www.rollitup.org/grow-journal...s-grow-10.html |
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#6
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Quote:
Firstly, it's not transplant shock - leaves don't turn yellow through transplant shock generally. Neither is it temperatures - my plants live very happily between 70-80 degrees, lights on and off - any temperature between those two should be fine, in fact 70-80 are the optimum temperatures for growing inside. Make sure your lights off temperatures don't drop below 60 though as plant growth will stop below that temperature. Neither do you need to run your fan 24/7, plants don't use co2 at lights off and therefore they do not require a fan operating to circulate the air. Many people choose to run their fans at lights off for the sole reason to keep air re-circulating around the plant canopy and to reduce high humidity, particularly in flowering as the air temperature in the grow chamber will lower at lights off. An air temperature moving from a high to a low will raise relative humidity as the air holds less water at lower temperatures than high and that water evaporates into the air raising humidity levels. If your relative humidity level is not going over 60 at lights off, there's really no need to be running your fan at lights off. You also don't need a moisture meter to check your plants moisture levels. They're innacurate, cheaply made and unreliable and you'll damage your roots shoving the probe into the soil all the time. Very few if any experienced and advanced growers use moisture meters - learn how to water your plants correctly using the 'wet/dry' watering method and once you've mastered it, you'll never have under or over watering problems again. Also don't let your water stand at all - this is another 'old wives tale' perpetuated by people who don't know what they're talking about. Chlorine (that's evaporating out of the water by letting it stand) is not at high enough levels to damage your plant - allowing all the dissolved oxygen to vaporise out of the water however can damage your plants. Also ignore everyone else in this thread 'guessing' what your problem might be - because that's all they're doing - guessing. Yellowing leaves could be caused by over-watering your plant, it could also be Nitrogen deficiency or one of about half a dozen deficiencies. Post a picture if you want an accurate assessment of what your problem is, because without one all we're doing is guessing. |
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#8
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Quote:
As we all know - healthy and vigorous roots = healthy plant = optimum harvests. This is one of the principle reasons faster growth can be achieved in hydro systems particularly those that uses bubblers or airstones - the roots are getting a constant supply of oxygenated water and this helps the root mass grow as well as the unrestricted space for them. Exactly the same principle works in soil with regards added oxygen in the root zone. |
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#9
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Quote:
__________________
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#10
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Absolutely - don't let your water stand for any more than about an hour before you water your plants with it.
Quote:
In nature a plants roots are allowed to spread wherever they want to go - not so in a pot. When rainwater hits soil - it slowly works its way down to the roots - in a pot all the roots will get the cold water at once - not so in nature - it does so gradually. Also the sprinkling affect of rainwater helps to oxygenate the soil by pushing oxygen into it as well as water droplets - emulate this yourself when watering your plants by using a little watering can with a sprinkler attachment - it takes longer to do, but you get a better more even coverage and also help to push more oxygen into the soil by the sprinkling affect. Watering plants is so crucial to their health and well being - it never ceases to amaze me just how many people just don't know or understand how to water their plants correctly. This is one of the first things any new grower must learn if he's to get the best from his plants and unfortunately it's the one subject people either don't take seriously or pay little heed to. |
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