I look forward the UB's opinion, but that looks like a fungus to me.

Big pots, small plants, lot's of water, high RH.

Hey Doc,

Could you elaborate on what you mean? Is this fungus found in the soil and secreting something that is toxic to the plant? Or you mean directly growing on the leaves of the plant? If on the leaves, wouldn't this be visible in someway, besides the browning of the leaves, of course. The reason I ask is that there is no visible signs (naked eye) of anything 'growing' on the flesh of leaves. You'll have to excuse my ignorance, as I am unmistakably, a newb. However, I do have a degree in Molecular and Microbio, as well as extensive lab experience, so I'm not totally oblivious (I hate qualifying, but...). Thanks for your input and I look forward to your response.

__________________
'If everyone is thinking alike, then someone isn't thinking' - Col George S Patton
'You said this was endo, smell more like outdoo...'
*Any statements on this, or any other site similar, is purely for entertainment purposes only*

I'd be interested too because I just transplanted from 16oz. cups to 5g buckets and thought humidity was supposed to be over 50%.

Briefly took a look at that thread. For starts, that's not enough light. If you have an imbalance of light to salts, it will show in the leaves as necrotic dots, copper color dots. That is a stressful event happening and a precursor to complete leaf necrosis, leaf drop.

This is an educated guess as I'm not there to assess your activities on a day to day basis.

If your plants were showing roots growing out the drainholes, it's time to upcan. That's a good sign. IOW, they aren't rotting.

I would use foods who's salts are higher in N.

Does it have a nutrient charge, and if so what is it? Most potting soils do.

Sorry my friend, doesn't mean a thing to me. You apply foods according to plants' requirements, not some recommendation on a label. You also apply foods based on certain ratios dependent on what you're trying to accomplish. IOW, promoting foliage requires a higher N ratio than say....a 1-3-2.

1. Increase the temp, go for a 15F differential day/night.

2. Plants need a rest. Recommend a 20/4 for veg.

3. Can't comment on the lighting as I don't know what your plants are actually receiving regarding f.c.

Sounds good. Good air movement is necessary to keep disease pressures at bay, especially during flowering.

Good luck,
UB

__________________
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

I have 260w running right now, how much more do I need? I'm working on getting them positioned better, but all of the plants have at least one light 1-3" away.

I have a new problem. I checked the drainoff pH of my Santa Berry, which is really droopy and sad looking, and it was somewhere between 7-7.5, according to the color chart. I have no idea how this happened because I check and adjust the pH of all the water I give them.

Don't know, as I (nor you) have a clue of what they are really receiving. Remove all doubt and buy a light meter that registers up to 10K f.c.

Can you trust the accuracy of the chart? If you're in soil, that pH is fine, besides folks put way to much emphasis on pH values. Human dynamics being that they use the ruse of a pH imbalance to try to explain away something else that is wrong with their applications, their methods. IOW, it's kinda like adding epsom salts, it is the easy way out. Could be "God's will", ya never know.

Good luck,
UB

__________________
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

Groovy.

It's a pH kit made for hydroponics since I'm using 2-1 perlite/vermiculite as my medium. I was just worried at seeing green test water instead of the pee yellow of 6. I foliar fed my plants last night and they all showed improvement this morning. So maybe the pH is locking out nutes?

I did some more moving with my lights.

Attached Images

grow room 021.jpg (106.3 KB, 10 views)

hey ub,
just wanted to thank you for turning me on to the micrkote, it's the best product i have ever used and it's cheap!
got one q for you: what is the best thing to do after an initial overfeeding? everytime i start feeding my plants the first few weeks of flowering the same thing happens like clockwork. the fan leaves all turn yellow and fall off starting at the bottom of plant. tips show burning. i flush the plants when this happens then of coarse feed them less the next time but the plants never seem to recover. maybe i'm not flushing enough? well i just bought a good (blue lab) ppm meter and i am going to start using it, but i've never used one nor worried about ppm.
so if you could give me some advise on what to do after overfeeding the plants the first time (i don't feed them much in veg and only organic stuff) and how i can utilize the ppm meter. i am in dirt by the way. thanks ub.

__________________
Think for yourself...
Question authority

I assume so, and I am waiting on the response from Fox Farm for that specific information. I do know that it contains a lot of organic products, which if I understand correctly, it would be hard to get nutrient burning, especially from a pre-mix, but who knows. The main components are earthworm castings, mycorrhizae (as well as various beneficial bacteria's), bat guano, and humic acid. Not sure if this matters...


Hehe, I'm sure it doesn't and I apologize if I didn't give more useful information, however I wanted to provide you as much as possible in hopes that you could aid in diagnosing my current problem, and I truly appreciate your help. I would like to clarify what your saying: So, when you add nutrients you do so in a reactive manner, rather than proactive, according to how your plants are growing, and what they're 'telling you' based on observation? Otherwise, I wouldn't necessarily know what specific requirements the plant needs, other than the generalized guideline on the back of the bottle. I guess you are insinuating that I should know what exactly is going into my plants by adding individual components rather than a pre-mixed nutrient made by a corporation? Also, I would love to accomplish all of the things that make for a successful grow, including promoting foliage, larger roots, healthier, fuller plants, larger yields, etc. Could you give me some insight as to how to do this?... Or more specifically, what do you use to feed, in general, and what processes do these involve when taking into consideration feed schedule, etc.



I appreciate the recommendations, and I have implemented both, as of today.



Can too much fan be a problem? IOW, is is a bad thing to keep the fan on the plants consistently, w/o oscillation?


Last, do you use CO2? Is it a bad thing to use CO2 in an environment that will receive very little 'new air', due to lack of ventilation?

And are you aware if supercropping stunts a plant?

UB, again, thank you, I appreciate your time.... Now if I can only get some Meds! Dry for over a month now Cheers!

__________________
'If everyone is thinking alike, then someone isn't thinking' - Col George S Patton
'You said this was endo, smell more like outdoo...'
*Any statements on this, or any other site similar, is purely for entertainment purposes only*

I don't know if you've overfed or not as you have not told me what you're using, the frequency and amount nor the size of the plants. The loss of lower fan leaves is typical around here, it's a cultural thing and many times the result of using cannabis foods that don't contain enough N.

__________________
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"