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Reply With QuoteUB, if thats the case, whats the point of using bloom foods? In that case, it seems like the opposite of what you actually want is happening.
Being that it is so short lived, only if there is a deficiency.Originally Posted by OneHit
The N in lower leaves will be sacrificed by the plant to newer growth. Very low light levels will also induce leaf drop - your call.Just read about elemential mobility. Very useful, deserves a read. The only leaves that die off for me are the older leaves, so that means Im missing one of the 3, NPK right?
I guarantee if you're using one of the typical Bloom foods, exclusively, you'll lose lower leaves and more as the symptom/result moves up the plant. What these manufacturer's are conveniently forgetting to tell you (and manufacturers of "cannabis specific" foods are the worst) is that it's leaves that produce flowers/fruit, not their plant food. You can use all the Bloom food you want, but you progressively start losing the very unit that produces bud and you're in deep shit.
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
The decision to buy and use a product is often determined by the skill of the salesperson not the efficacy of the product.
UB, if thats the case, whats the point of using bloom foods? In that case, it seems like the opposite of what you actually want is happening.
Great question!
Nothing bad really, it can help the transition from veg to flowering mode.... but labels sell and that's what counts in the real world, profits. Here's my take on the industry - if P supports good flower production, then lot's of P produces lots of flowers. (There's a term for this kind of logic, someone help me out). A 10-62-10 may be OK outdoors in native soil where P tends to get bound (locked up) by Ca, but in regular indoor soils or hydro, you've got to be careful to not overdo it.
If often does. As I said in a previous post, when is P enough? Is a food that is a 10-62-10 better for flower production or is a food that is a 10-8-10 have enough P for good flower production while maintaining leaf health? I go with the latter premise. The question for the grower should be, "when do I reach a point where too much of one macro becomes antagonistic to the uptake of other elements?" That's where folks go wrong, by applying too much or too little of a certain NPK ratio. http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htmIn that case, it seems like the opposite of what you actually want is happening.
Just because the label or chart tells you to use such and such doesn't mean it's best for your plant. If you see a plant that is yellowing from the bottom up, and you've been using a bloom food low in N for the past 3 weeks of 12/12, then it should be a red flag that something's wrong. I raised an outdoor plant a couple of years ago that was exclusively fed a slow release (polymer encapsulated) 10 month high N food mixed into my custom potting soil before planting. It was a 18-4-9 with micros, and every time I would switch to a bloom food, it balked. Leaves turned yellowish, etc. Even though it automatically flowered on the 6th node (it obviously had some rudy in it) it produced 25 oz of some really cerebral sativa type bud. BTW, it was topped as a seedling in an effort to get 4 main colas, which happened.
Funny how this is pinging back and forth, but here's a ditty I did long ago on the issue of P abuse. The Never Ending Abuse of Phosphorous (Bloom foods) to Enhance Flowering
Tio
Last edited by Uncle Ben; 03-01-2009 at 08:43 AM.
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
The decision to buy and use a product is often determined by the skill of the salesperson not the efficacy of the product.
I have white spots on the leaves of my plants in both my growroom and flowering room.Anyone have an idea what the friek this could be?
1st time growing 3 weeks flowering - ram horns 4 1 week ???
Last edited by dream2003; 03-07-2009 at 09:46 AM.
Here's the pic's I PM'ed you about
Regarding pH and overnute issues. They're a little yellow-y from the HID -- if you think you see spots, you do. A couple are quite clear, along with their crispy necrotic tips (more like 1/2 up the leaf than tips, actually). Damn death march is eating my trichs, as you can see.
You can't blame the HID for that, you need to consider the food you're using, assuming you were using the HID long before those stress symptoms showed up.
UB
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
The decision to buy and use a product is often determined by the skill of the salesperson not the efficacy of the product.
No, no.. you misunderstood me. I was just talking about the yellowish cast that HID throws on a photo.. It obscures the intensity of the spotting a little, but you can still see it well.
ramhorn or claw leafs she need help anyone. claw leafs for 7days so I flushed with 1 gallon of water then trance planted from 1gallon to 3 gallon pot very root bound. water ph 6.4 temp lights on 82-84 time release ferts water every 3-4 days.growing in box lids open using 2-42 cfls 1-27watt cfl humid 55
Last edited by dream2003; 03-05-2009 at 11:22 PM.
What's your soil runoff pH? I tried to PM you so as to not hijack UB's theme here. Perhaps start another thread.
Your plants look EXACTLY like mine did at that stage. I turned out to have serious low pH.
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