looks like a good thread to be a part of!

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Like the soothsayer said in "O Brother....."

"Join my friend, join."

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
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I will join unfortunately.. I'm about two weeks in...And one stopped growing and the 2 little oval leafs are drooping and turning yellowish/w spots of like copper on one and the two main leafs are drooping as well but still green, while the other one has 4 new leafs and is doing fine?? using FF ocean forest, small amount botanicare nutes...

"Join my friend, join."[/quote]

i got a serious question.

someone i knows plant has started to loose leaves within a couple days. then it started to get limp.

theres like two seta of leavs left!

Cotyledons (endosperm) are food storage organs, not true leaves. Once their reserves are used up, expect them to drop.

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

He needs to read a book on plant culture before actually trying to grow anything.

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

Lack of adequate moisture?

That's too dry and will create dry channels such that it will be very difficult to wet the soil thoroughly throughout the pot. Water will have a tendency to drain down the sides rather than thru the soil.

Sounds like the roots have not reached the bottom yet. If it had, the plant would feel light. Roots wick off moisture rapidly. Bottom line, your plant does not sound very healthy.

Good luck,
UB

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

How do you adjust the relative humidity? How do you make it more Humid, or less humid?

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"Roll up a phat one and pass it around, I wanna get BLUNTED my brotha"

UB, thank you for your time. You entertain any question, even if the answer could be found with a minimal amount of reading/research by the individual. Much respect.

Not quite two weeks into my first grow, I have committed the cardinal sin of overwatering...though I blame it mostly on the Miracle Grow Organic potting soil I started with. Maybe with some perlite things could have been better, but it just retained too much moisture. I ditched the MG in favor of FF Ocean Forest and larger 5 1/2" square pots. They continue to produce new leaf growth every day or two, but some leaves still appear droopy.

Taking earlier advice from a thread in RIU, I purchased a $5 moisture meter from lowes, and it may have been the best thing I ever did. The plants that looked the most droopy were the ones with the highest readings on the moisture meter. As a first time grower (I prefer that term to "noob" as I have done many hours of research during these first few weeks) it is hard to determine what is wet and what is dry. Not with this cheap device. I recommend it to anyone (especially first time growers).

One of my more robust little girls has begun to develop some kind of deformation on her first set of serrated leaves. I have been administering no nutrients, only distilled water and my myriad of fluoro's and a 150w hps. Temp fluctuates, typical high 84-86, typical low 70-75. My only problem thus far has been relative humidity. It hovers at 20-25% with the lights on, and 40-50% at night. You indicated in an earlier post if they grow with a low humidity, then go with it. So I am. But just for experimentation's sake, I placed 3 plants in a humidity "tent", using wooden skewers, saran wrap, and tape to create an enclosed environment with locally increased humidity.

Anyway, the plant that developed this problem was the first girl subjugated to the tent. She was one of my strongest early seedlings and was doing just fine (until now).



The first two show the problem area, and I just now noticed another similar patch of badness developing in the second image. The last one shows the general droop discussed in the beginning (that should be corrected as the soil eventually gets dry).

Help my babies Uncle Ben!

Time is limited but I try to answer those that seem stuck. We'll get to the bottom of this thru a series of questions/answers.

If the root system is healthy, I find it next to impossible to overwater. A robust root system will wick away about whatever you give it under normal circumstances, using typical potting soils. MG soil is a good soil. You need to adjust your watering schedule. For starts, I would use taller pots. Seedlings have a pretty long taproot and a taller pot also means less chance of overwatering. Also, when you upcan, sink the plant so that the first node with leafsets is just a hair above the soil line. This will insure root production the entire length of the buried "trunk" and after a week or so, they will take off like a ruptured goose.

Probably stress related. Try not to read too much into it.

You don't need to use distilled water, tap is fine and unless you are absolutely certain that MG has NO nutrient charge, then you should be lightly fertilizing. Does the soil have bluish green pellets, encapsulated food?

RH is fine if the root system is doing its job. When you upcanned, were the rootballs intact or did they fall apart?

So much for tents. Again, your focus should be on developing a robust root system. When you have one, you'll get this kind of vigor - Spin-Out for chemical root pruning

What kind of light fixture and how far from the plant tops is it?

Good luck,
UB

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"