Please Help! Something is Killing my babies

K3mikal

Active Member
Could Someone please tell me what is going on? I'm at a loss. My Indoor strain of Holland butter and Purple Kush has gotten sick. The leaves start to yellow between the leaf margins on the largest fan leaves. They then start to turn a rusty brown color around the sides of the leaf. after another day or so they start to curl down, die, turn red and fall off the plant. This happens to all of the fan leaves first then the smaller leaves then the buds. This has all happened slowly after about a month. I have no Idea what is going on wether it's root rot or Nitro burn. For soil I use Expert Perfect mix, mixed with Pro mix and some perlite. I water at least once a week and have somewhat hard water, though this has never effected them like this before. I feed them with a diluted stregnth Miracle Gro Blossom Bloom. I took a bunch of pics to help diagnose the issue. Some are flowering some are in the veg cycle and some are the clones. Odd things are happening to all. It's a sad sad day.:cry: Any other info needed I will be happy to supply. One more note the budding cycle has produced long hair very small buds. You will be able to see this in one of the pics. Others have produced well but are starting to die, and I don't mean yellowing. Thank you for your input
 

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smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
man that is a Potassium problem if I ever saw one. Maybe alittle magnesium too.
I would bet that your runoff ph is around 5 and is causing this lockout. wow even the younger guys-could be the strain and your soil. some bat guano for the little guys-make some teas as it needs to be quick acting.
the older gals look like they are flowering week 4ish. those leaves that look like shit are going to eventully die so no use crying over spilt milk-the younger ones can be saved. for the flowering girls you are gonna want to find a single source of potassium as to not aggrevate the balance of the other nutes-if you use the bat guano on them than you will prob get burned and make it worse. some fine domolite lime added to your soil like yesterday will help buffer your ph hopefully enough on the older gals to stop the deficiency and let it finish out it's life.

Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.


When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.



Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/enviroment.


Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency
Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption. (FFGB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
good call. I would think so but not sure on how soluble it is and if it was a quick fix, why dont i ever see it in any grow bibles? I think Brasmith would know.
 

brasmith

Well-Known Member
do you think molasses would also help K def. as it has like 540mg of Potassium in it?
Molasses is a great K addition to any flowering feeding system. If molasses is used during flowering then you don't have to use any other bloom boosters, M is cost effective. I use it on every grow, in fact since i have always used it, i don't know results with out it. It's great for both the plant and the soil. Molasses (Brer Rabbit unsulfured) also has carbs, calcuim, magnesium, and iron. The reason it is good for soil is because it helps build a symbionic soil environment.
 

K3mikal

Active Member
Thanks for the help. Would the molassas be the fastest cure as opposed to the lime or should I do Both? Knowing that the domolite lime will lower the PH do I mix this Into the top layer of soil then water it with a molassas mixture? and do I do this to all? After doing some research could overwatering or the use of hard water have contributed to this issue? Or is it just a deficency? I think this happened to me one time before but only on a couple plants so I chalked it up to strain. But this time it is effecting all of the strains and plants in all stages. This sucks!!!!!
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
go with the molasses for now. some of those plants look late in flowering and those leaves are not gonna recover. the lime will actually help stablizie the ph as there are buffers in it. I dont think it will lower you ph. can add some to top layer of soil mixed in or sprinkled ontop or whatever
 

K3mikal

Active Member
Thanks again for the info. I'll give the molasses a try. As far as the over watering part could that have contributed to the mess or should I try using a different nutrient mixture? I'll get back with the molasses results. Hoping it works!:bigjoint:
 

demonofthefall0116

Active Member
they sure look like its a nutrient problem. too much can fry em like that. but the lack of development can also be attributed to potassium deficiency
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
you stated you were watering once every week which is not alot so have you been overwatering recently? that ng is rough and tough shit-meant for heavier fruit bearing plants which is why you have been using diluted mix-i would ditch it for the next grow for shore.
 

K3mikal

Active Member
Alright, I bought myself a better ph tester for my soil. The crispy ones that are in their fourth week of flowering have a ph of about 4.5 NOT GOOD! The plants that are still somewhat green have a ph of about 5 still NOT GOOD! The little ones have a ph slightly under 6 or right on. I also tested the growing medium and it is at a ph of 6 Which is good so I think that I should stay away from any of that rough and tough shit. Maybe that being the cause??? I obtained some dolemite lime for gardens. I applied 1 Tablespoon per plant, based on some math if I did it right. Then watered with a mixture of molasses and water 1 Tablespoon per gallon. Is that the right amount or too much? I only did this to a few plants as to see the response. Thanks again
 

brasmith

Well-Known Member
That should do the trick. Give them a few days to respond. 6.0 ph is still a bit low for soil grown plants. Once the lime brings your ph to 6.5-7.0 (check daily) you'll see them begin to change.
 
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