Let's take this shitty led apart and let's design a better one!

so pretty much this test should clarify what Rasser, davemedinis, patrikantonius, Along with others had previously said.

i first plugged in the unit as it previously was,
row "A" had module2 full blast and module3 dimmed
row "B" had module 3 full blast
the rest of the modules do not work.

i then unpluuged everything (keep in mind i will be conducting test the with same wiring as it origninally was)
photo (16).jpgphoto (10).jpg


i first wanted to start with row A and the working module2 and driver2.
driver2+module1=nothing
driver2+module2=full blast
photo (14).jpg
driver2+module3=dimm, this tells us that module3 is broken and driver2 is working.
photo (13).jpgphoto (11).jpg
driver2+module4+nothing
photo (18).jpg
this is when the test goes sour,

driver1+module1=nothing
driver1+module2= full blast, then within 10 seconds it starts to blink multiple times, then its dimms
photo (13).jpg
driver1+module3=dimm, same as before, once agian this could be a indication that driver works, but then agian this driver and module2 completly just failed!
driver1+module4=nothing

so i dont feel the need of posting the rest of the results of row A results are the same as the others.(unless u absoultly need them)

ok so now row B
i decided just to start with driver1
driver1+module1=nothing
driver1+module2=nothing
driver1+module3=fullblast, but within seconds the same occures, it blinks then it dimmed, however it didnt dimm as much as module2 from row A, it still has some power, but by no means full blast
photo (15).jpg
driver1+module4=nothing

the rest of the results are the same, i dont feel the need to post, unless otherwise.

ok so now what does this test tell us? it can mean alot of things
i think these leds and modules are busted, just like it was stated earlier, each one would eventually go out.
so whats next?
how should we further test these modules and or drivers?
how can we redisign this led unit?'
how can we upgrade it?

"driver1+module2= full blast, then within 10 seconds it starts to blink multiple times, then its dimms"

That was what I saw when trying to run the driver with only one module connected.
(I think the driver has current sensing on it two outputs, so if it's measure 700mA on one channel and not the other it's shuts down.
I'm not sure, but the behavior of the driver points in that direction.)

Thinking about what a dummy load could look like: 36.8V / 0.7A = 51ohm's
A halogen flood light on 250 or 300W should make the driver think a module is connected,'
and will then not start to blink and shutdown so a real module can be tested on the other channel,
or as a driver test with two dummy loads connected.
250W / 120V = 2.0A = 120V / 2A = 57ohm
300W / 120V = 2,5A = 120V / 2A = 48ohm.

And 1000 watts if the light bulb is a 230V model.

Edit: I Read your results as this - we have gone from whats is broken to "Okay what do we got on this spacecraft that's good"
Module 1 & 2 are at full blast(or that's how it appears) - the 4 drivers are properly working ok, connecting the two working modules
or a dummy load to each one of them should show that.


15 LED module pcb see though btw:

Hi.

What about constructing a test circuit to test the individual RED LED's on those modules that are dark.

A 9V volt battery and a 15 Ohm 5W resistor some wires and you up and running, can find a resistor use a 12V 10W halogen light bulb.