Thatsmessedup's Blackstar 500 LED, LST Grow #2

Ahhh.. fyi my blackstars are the 2012 models, so they may be better designed than previous generations. Made it through one grow so far no problems, about to start second... they even survived a swarm of lady bugs crawling inside the vents

Originally Posted by Senseimilla

Ahhh.. fyi my blackstars are the 2012 models, so they may be better designed than previous generations. Made it through one grow so far no problems, about to start second... they even survived a swarm of lady bugs crawling inside the vents

That might be the case. One of my panels is definitely 2011 and it seems like it runs a little hot but hasn't had any problems. My other panel was bought in 2012 (March) but the diode already fried so I know it wasn't a 2012 model as the faulty diodes are only on the 2011's. Supposedly the 2012s run cooler. They're replacing my entire panel with a new 2012 model so i'll let ya know any differences when i get it back.

They haven't been out long enuff to fry, heh

Hey Rasser, my only problem with a LED knocking out a circuit is the clear cap on the LEDs that BSs and other Chinese panels use are supposed to keep the current flowing in case the diode goes out. At least that is how it was explained to me. The exact scientific explanation I never got because I could barely understand what the person was saying in the first place . So unless that cap over the LED lens/case is physically damaged and the diode is not working the circuit should still function. A multimeter would probably tell the real story quicker I would think .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_LED_failure_modes

http://www.quickar.com/ledstherightway.pdf

Originally Posted by Amaximus

We're gonna have to petition to get this journal thrown out of the led forum. Your hps now. (JOKE!) lol.

I'm surprised to hear you only experience about a two degree difference in temperature. That's good news at least. it would suck to have to deal with the led panel going out just to have to deal with heat issues. Those Blackstars do run hot though. No doubt the girls will take to the hps fine. Good luck man.

What're your plans for that BS500? Parts? sidelighting?

LOL ... I was thinking I might get kicked out of this forum using the hps but then again I'm showing people the horrors of cheap leds.

I was super surprised as well about the temps. I think the temps are so low because the hps hood has a glass bottom. Iv got it hooked to a 430cfm fan that directly sucks heat from the bulb. The blackstar just throws all its heat 360 degrees around the unit. the heat then needs to be collected by my outtake fan.

So now my plans are to sell the light on ebay. Someone else can deal with it.

Originally Posted by squarefodder

Wow somehow I missed the post where your row of leds busted. I was asking about the 500 but now I have my answer. That inconvience really blows. I'm looking for a new unit, looks like it won't be blackstar....

Who makes your digi hps? Just curious.

Yep... maybe blackstars 2012 models are better like sensi says but to be honest the reason I took to leds is because they are suppost to run for years and years (50,000 hrs), and that by itself justifies the extra cost. but if you cannot get even 1 year out of a unit there is no justification. Next time I would get a unit with at least a 3 year warranty.

My ballast is a 400 watt solis-tek and the hood is hydrofarm Da Luminaire series. The lamp is eiko brand 400 watt HPS. Im sure the bulb isn't the best but the guy at the hydro store said for the price its awesome. The hood has a ridiculous warranty like 25 years and the ballast has a 5 year warranty.

Originally Posted by FranJan

Hey Rasser, my only problem with a LED knocking out a circuit is the clear cap on the LEDs that BSs and other Chinese panels use are supposed to keep the current flowing in case the diode goes out. At least that is how it was explained to me. The exact scientific explanation I never got because I could barely understand what the person was saying in the first place . So unless that cap over the LED lens/case is physically damaged and the diode is not working the circuit should still function. A multimeter would probably tell the real story quicker I would think .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_LED_failure_modes

http://www.quickar.com/ledstherightway.pdf

Sounds illogical to me, if the clear cap could conduct current the LED would be short circuited while it was working.

Sorry to hear about the 500bs. The girls are coming along nicely under the 400watt hps.

Stay safe, and happy growing, peace.