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Inda-gro Induction...

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forums; on the subject of inda gro. If you look at the spd. Its lacking red in the 660nm range and ...
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    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja hyroot's Avatar
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    on the subject of inda gro. If you look at the spd. Its lacking red in the 660nm range and lacking IR which both are needed for flower. between 660nm and 700 nm is where chlorophyl absorbs the most light. So you would still need to use supplment lighting , led or t5. If they tweak the gas a little, they could produce the 660 red.
    Last edited by hyroot; 04-24-2012 at 11:41 PM.
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    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja Buck123's Avatar
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    @spliff just a heads up from a pal who's used canna for nearly 15 years... here's canna's write up and the liquid lead...

    We introduced the CANNABOOST Accelerator at the Dutch Highlife Fair 2006. It’s a product that we are proud of! And the first CANNABOOST users who have reacted very positively to the product have further increased this pride. The advantages of growing with CANNABOOST Accelerator include: - Better Yields - Suitable for use with all growing mediums and substrates - Even higher yields in combination with PK 13/14 - Better ripening and strengthened immune system -Fuller, more powerful taste CANNABOOST Accelerator is a product that distinguishes itself from the existing booster products in every aspect and is also typified as being: “The new boost generation”. With this product we have again proved that: Quality proves itself! CANNABOOST is a powerful bloom accelerator that stimulates the fructification. As a result the harvest will be fuller and denser then normal. The yield will be more homogeneous due to a gradual ripening. Besides this CANNABOOST ensures your plants will become healthier, stronger and less prone to diseases and plagues. CANNABOOST stands surety for a higher yield, but also contains flavour enhancing characteristics. Which means CANNABOOST ensures a quantitative and qualitative better produce! Directions of use - Shake bottle well before use - Dosage: Administer the nutrient using a dilution of approximately 1:500 (200 ml per 100 L of water) from the moment that fl owers start to form. For extra flowering strength, dilute 1:250 (400 ml per 100 L of water) - Do not use in combination with products containing hydrogen peroxide (H202) - Use dilluted solution within 7 days - CANNABOOST can be given manually, through drip irrigation or by foliar feeding Storage, health & safety and other directions - Use CANNABOOST in combination with your regular feed - Store closed in a dark and frost-proof place - Keep out of reach of children Warranty / Guarantee The bottle is made of Polyethylene (PVC and cadmium free), an easily biodegradable and recyclable plastic.



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    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja Buck123's Avatar
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    http://www.growroom.com.au/shop/addi...uid-lead-1ltr/


















    Liquid Lead 1Ltr
    $30.00 inc GST

    Code: 1264



    Heavy Enhancer Contains a special formula precisely designed for the heaviest harvest. A unique blend of organic enzyme activators vitamins essential amino acids and carbohydrates that will unleash the full flowering potential of your favourite plants or herbs. Optimises harvest weight Promotes vigorous growth Enhances flavour and taste Increase health of flowering plants APPLICATION To get the most from your flowering plants follow these simple instructions. Start using Liquid Lead 3 weeks prior to harvest. Add 2.5ml per Ltr of water along with a quality flowering nutrient.

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    @Buck: thanks for that. however, I am familiar with most of Canna's literature, to include most all of what has ever been said about Boost (at $110-$125 per liter, believe that i did as much research as I could...) in regards to the Liquid Lead ( or Finisher as it is called in North America), it seems to not have been around as long as Boost, and according to Google, there is only that video that I previously posted and then foreign sites that sell it.

    what I would like would be something substantial to bolster your claims that it is better than Boost. In my next bloom run I am planning on running 2 matched plants from clone identically except for Boost, to see for myself if it's worth that continued investment, but what is there to indicate that Liquid Lead is better?

    to be sure, if it is better, then I truly appreciate the heads up; but for me, I can't see myself ordering a dubious product that I've never heard of and can't get reliable third party information regarding off the internet on the recommendation of a stranger.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hyroot View Post
    on the subject of inda gro. If you look at the spd. Its lacking red in the 660nm range and lacking IR which both are needed for flower. between 660nm and 700 nm is where chlorophyl absorbs the most light. So you would still need to use supplment lighting , led or t5. If they tweak the gas a little, they could produce the 660 red.
    are you referring to this (http://www.inda-gro.com/gallery/album/9#5)? if so, that's for the Pro Series, not the Pro-PAR series. it's my understanding that the non-PAR lineup is lacking on some of the red spectrum that the PAR has; that's the key difference. as stated on the Inda-Gro site, in regards to the PAR lamps: "95% Par Usable UV and IR Spectrums with Added Red Phosphor Blend". also, as illustrated in this picture, par-graph-220x300.jpg plants have an almost inverse perception of light, as compared to how our own eyes Eyesensitivity-300x263.jpg register it. That is to say that our eyes are roughly 10% sensitive to that particular wavelength as compared to 550nm (green). BTW, it's the phosphors that are responsible for the actual illumination of fluorescent lamps, not the gas.

    please look back in this thread a page or two; i have posted a very recent video to youtube where you can see for yourself my Pro-420-PAR is putting bigger, fatter, denser buds on it's plants than the HPS is doing on it's plants. you can also note in that video that the HPS light looks orange, and the Inda-Gro looks to be putting out a white-ish light. recall ^ that your eyes are not the best instruments to rely on here... look at the buds. let the plant tell you the better light source!

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    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja PSUAGRO.'s Avatar
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    You guys are doing RIU a big service by running these inductions(and posting great info too!)..........It's hard to find anyone running these panels, i'm really thinking about trying one of the smaller units out instead of leds(for the summer)..........decisions

    be safe and happy growing.....

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    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja PetFlora's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyroot View Post
    on the subject of inda gro. If you look at the spd. Its lacking red in the 660nm range and lacking IR which both are needed for flower. between 660nm and 700 nm is where chlorophyl absorbs the most light. So you would still need to use supplment lighting , led or t5. If they tweak the gas a little, they could produce the 660 red.
    Good points. The fact is no one single bulb (or 99% of leds) will be optimal for both veg and flower, due to the increased requirements for red-far red-IR during flower (oh, and the opposite for 420-500 + price) is why I am sticking with HO T5s for now.

    Rives made a neat Inda-Gro hybrid adding 600-660 led strips to both sides, using a separate o/o switch to control when to introduce them. That doesn't solve the need for decreased blue during flower, but it offers much better bud development (quality & probably quantity) than a standard Ind Gro.

    Ideally, I need to replace my 8 bulb with 2 @ 4, as it would be easier to drop some extra IR (Corals Waves have some) in between the 2 @ 4 during first hour of lights off while in flower. But then again, my grow is only 2 X 4 and haven't found IR bulbs < 150w, which is ~ 100w too much for my grow.

    FYI: UVL is sending me a 660, which I will utilize in ~ 3 weeks.
    Last edited by PetFlora; 04-25-2012 at 10:37 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hyroot View Post
    on the subject of inda gro. If you look at the spd. Its lacking red in the 660nm range and lacking IR which both are needed for flower. between 660nm and 700 nm is where chlorophyl absorbs the most light. So you would still need to use supplment lighting , led or t5. If they tweak the gas a little, they could produce the 660 red.
    You make a good point in that there is no such thing as the perfect man made lamp. They all will lack the intensity @ the full spectrums of the sun. However by managing lighting integrals properly and measuring yields against costs p/m squared I would be hard pressed to justify LED or T5 to 'supplement' the Inda-Gro PAR blends.

    No matter what lamp technology or whose spectral distribution graph you're looking at its still data based on relative intensity of the wavelength at a specific point in the spectrum. Intensity is generated by energy. If you look at any HPS SDG you see that the relative intensity of HPS falls off steadily to nothing on wavelengths north of 630nm. This is not necessarily a bad thing but it's not a complete Red/FR solution and it does take alot of energy above PAR to achieve the red they do emit.

    The predominant gas used in fluorescent lamps is an Ultra Pure Argon. Mixing Neon, Krypton, zenon to argon is usually driven by the requirements of the lamps operating voltage. The gas doesn't influence spectrum to the degree that the phosphor blends do. For example argon emits a far red peak in the 710nm region but overall influence of the gas, any gas, on the lamps PAR spectral distribution when measured in relative intensity is less significant then the phosphors. The Inda-Gro PAR blends emit red spectra up to 655nm which as you can see by their SDG is still higher then the argon peak. Ideally I look for a wide spectrum lamp that does emit a FR to not overcompensate the Red. The desirable ratio is 2:1 Red over Far Red as measured in relative intensity.

    Besides gas and phosphor the small Mercury (5mg) amalgam present within a low pressure (when an EFDL lamp cracks there is no explosive outburst of glass. They just quit working and the crack tends to keep spreading) glass tube, typical of EFDL induction lamps, also provides SDG emissions @ 405,445,545,580 and 780nm.

    Under an HPS lamp where the sodium mixes with the Mercury (Hg) (12-50mg) in a high pressure environment lamps explode when broken as the pressure is released, that same Hg reacts in entirely different spectra and are less predominant then in (8%) fluorescent. Check those mfg's of HPS and look at their Spectral Distribution Graphs. You'll find under high pressure Hg emissions contribute less then 1% of total spectra and hardly show up at all on the SDG. The point I'm making here is that when these lamps explode you have Hg spread all over the grow area and collecting the Hg from an exploded lamp will be will always be a question as to whether or not it was all collected or any remains in the room.

    I'm not picking on HPS but do keep in mind that the lamp changes on an HPS that goes to it's rated life of 20,000 hrs compared to an EFDL @ 100,000 hrs is 5:1 in Hg as an environmental issue. Most growers change the lamps at around 10% of the rated life so the ratio is actually 20:1. Lets hope those are all being properly recycled and not getting into the ground water.

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    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja PSUAGRO.'s Avatar
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    I always thought that hps bulb are actually low pressure and are suitable for open fixtures? Their definitely open fixture rated...

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    nope your thinking LPS

    there is Low Pressure Sodium and they are the street lights in the long housings that are monochromatic (horrible for a grow light) or really orange looking

    High Pressure Sodium is the opposite. Some of the HPS lamps from China are poorly made and when the ambient conditions rise or they are run on 50K Hz digital ballasts the bulbs can explode.

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