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Advanced Lighting Spectrums for T5 Floro and LED

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forums; Originally Posted by Fonzarelli I said this in the opening post already. I even used your word "catalyst." As long ...
  1. #11
    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja PetFlora's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fonzarelli View Post
    I said this in the opening post already. I even used your word "catalyst."

    As long as your spectrum is balanced out with the proper amount of blue light, 660nm will AWAYS absorb more efficiently than 630nm. It's a fact. 630nm light will help to balance out the spectrum if there is an over-abundance of 660nm. This is where you will see "bleaching" is when the spectrum is not balanced out properly.

    This statement is completely false. Bleaching? This is what happens when your spectrum is improperly balanced with the wrong wavelengths. How do you know this will happen with 10w LEDs specifically? Have you done a DIY already? I have seen the best growth so far with 15w LEDs and higher. People are even using 80w and higher dense matrix LEDs and having outstanding growth with them. They are growing trees with them because they can penetrate through the canopy.


    You "think" it's the opposite, but you are wrong. Think about how all terrestrial plants absorb the blue and red wavelengths more efficiently than the green and yellow wavelengths. It's because there is less of the red and blue in the Sun's spectrum, that's why plants absorb it more efficiently. Indica's grow higher above the equator so there will be an abundance of BLUE light. This is why they absorb RED light more efficiently. Opposite for Sativas. I've done the testing already so please try it first before saying how it is. My Cali-O Sativa cannot get enough blue light, but when there is more red, the leaves get mottled and growth stops. This has been backed up by others.


    I've seen this thread you are talking about. They are using 80w high powered dense matrix LED lights and higher. The reason they are having such good results with them is because THEY ARE 80w from a single point light source. The reason the neutral and warm white work is because of the spectrum. Have you even seen the spectral output of them? It's one giant spike at 460nm or 440nm(depending on type) and then a huge curve from 550nm up to 740nm. They still waste photons however, due to the abundance of green and yellow light in the spectrum, but they do cover the whole spectrum unlike HPS. You don't need more green and yellow in your spectrum, you need more red and deep red. Yes, the warm whites and neutrals work on their own, but so does a HPS and MH.

    I think you need to read more closely to fully understand and do more research. I've already seen proof that backs up what I said so it's no longer a theory. Any time you fine tune your spectrum for your plants, you will achieve maximum growth potential.
    As anyone reading this will see, we disagree on SOME things. First you said specifically 550 was the catalyst, not 500-600 as I have consistently stated. And it's 630 that 'aways' absorbs more than 660s, but these are nit pics. 630 without 660 will do a better job than the opposite, though both have a place at the table. That is extremist thinking, whereas all spectrums play a role.

    You also told me to increase my w/d cycles in HPA, way beyond what worked, but I tried them for several weeks, before dropping way back to where I am now, and seeing better results than I did without experimenting. Meaning you were not 100% right, but neither were you 100% wrong.

    You're learning a lot (and have learned a lot from me, as I from others) but making absolute statements here boxes you into a corner with no way out. And I know that is not your intention. No one I am aware of has taken the bull by the horns and tried as many T5 variables as you have. Kudos! And who gave you the idea for the title of this thread? ME
    Last edited by PetFlora; 07-16-2012 at 01:21 PM.

  2. #12
    420 TIME Stoner Fonzarelli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetFlora View Post
    As anyone reading this will see, we disagree on SOME things. First you said specifically 550 was the catalyst, not 500-600 as I have consistently stated.
    What I meant by 550nm is that it is a combination of green and yellow light. It's right in the middle of 500-600. I don't see why you would need to have a range between 500nm and 600nm to give you the same results as using 550nm. This is similar to the idea that you can get by with 460nm blue light instead of using a combination of 440nm and 480nm. I see little difference between using 550nm vs. 500-600nm. Plus, that whole spectrum range is already covered quite well by any white LED or tri-band T5 HO.
    Quote Originally Posted by PetFlora View Post
    And it's 630 that 'aways' absorbs more than 660s,
    That's funny you say this because in your last post you said not to make "absolute" statements. LOL
    Quote Originally Posted by PetFlora View Post
    630 without 660 will do a better job than the opposite, though both have a place at the table.
    This is where I draw the line and totally disagree. I think you need to experiment more with the 660nm wavelength and do more research. I have about 15 people that would also back me up on this. We also both need to keep in mind that certain strains will prefer extra 500-630nm wavelength. Maybe we need to make a new thread that only focuses on ONE STRAIN? Through my own research I am trying to find a middle ground of spectrum that "all strains" can enjoy.(If possible.)
    Quote Originally Posted by PetFlora View Post
    You also told me to increase my w/d cycles in HPA, way beyond what worked, but I tried them for several weeks, before dropping way back to where I am now, and seeing better results than I did without experimenting. Meaning you were not 100% right, but neither were you 100% wrong.
    What does this have to do with light spectrum? I merely told you the timing that some lettuce growers use for Aero, I didn't speak of it as an absolute. I made this quite clear many times in your thread. I said repeatedly that it was only a starting point. So basically you did exactly what I told you to do and you found your happy medium. Yeah, I'm guilty of not staying on topic in your thread as well, but try to keep it to a minimum, especially since this is only page 2.
    Quote Originally Posted by PetFlora View Post
    You're learning a lot (and have learned a lot from me, as I from others) but making absolute statements here boxes you into a corner with no way out. And I know that is not your intention. No one I am aware of has taken the bull by the horns and tried as many T5 variables as you have. Kudos! And who gave you the idea for the title of this thread? ME
    I tried your idea by using the Redsuns as the main red light spectrum in my fixture that I do not yet have 660nm lamps for yet. I needed to balance the blue in my fixture and it was the only pure Red lamp I could use. I noticed that the plants responded well, but I am still not convinced that 630nm is more ideal than 660nm. No freakin way. And the idea of this thread was a combination of you, Poly, and my own ideas as my other thread was not intended to be used for light spectrum analysis. You have already had your juice box here many times, I don't understand why you are trying to seek out this "credit" for so many things. LOL BTW, The majority of the learning I have received has been from biology, botany, physics, and quantum mechanics classes I took while in school. I am also learning a lot from the LED and T5 forums here, but only the minor details. I find it hard to believe that you know exactly "what" I have learned up to this point. I don't want this to come across as arrogance, but I would like to keep this type of talk to a minimum and focus on the topic at hand.

    Feel free to experiment with as much 630nm wavelength as you want, but be sure to experiment with equal amounts of 660nm so that you can actually develop an accurate idea of what they do.

    One reason I believe the 660nm wavelength to be such a good choice over any others is because it is smack dab in the middle between 630nm and 690nm.(Red and Deep Red) I believe 660nm has the capability to achieve the same results as combining 630nm and 690nm. In essence, it's the best of both worlds. As you can see from the chart below, the 630nm wavelength is actually closer to orange, not true red. Chlorophyll A peaks around 690nm while chlorophyll B peaks around 630nm. 660nm is conveniently right in the middle allowing a higher light absorption rate without having to use 2 different wavelengths.
    Last edited by Fonzarelli; 07-16-2012 at 04:11 PM.

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    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja kinetic's Avatar
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    Until we can see this outmatched growth you guys seem to be proclaiming, you sound like knowledgeable sex ed teachers that are virgins.

    One of the points made is that different strains respond better to different wavelenghts. Great. So if I want to grow my w.w. standard and have a led setup for it I would have to change out my setting if say I wanted to grow Mauii Wauii, And yet again if I wanted to throw some Cali Kush in my setup.

    The great thing about my hid setup is that it just works. I'm chomping at the bit for some solid LED action, especially for flower. I do appreciate the effort.
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    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja PetFlora's Avatar
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    Looks like uploading pics is working again.

    This is various bud/cola pics of one hybrid Indica/Sat plant. from lowest branch to top she is ~ 3ft X 2 X 2. Flowered under 2/8 Zoomed + 2 Coral Waves + 3 Red Suns + one 660. The buds do not give at all when squeezed. Even the lowest buds are almost golf ball size and they are over 3ft from the bulbs


    IMG_1034.jpgIMG_1035.jpgIMG_1036.jpgIMG_1033.jpg


    This is from another site.

    Something to chew on, regardless of lamp choice:
    As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more than 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.

    Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.

    (i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):

    Last edited by PetFlora; 07-16-2012 at 08:29 PM.
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    Able To Roll A Joint Able to roll a joint mrcourios's Avatar
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    Alright after more reading I'm thinking my lamp order will consist of these.
    Flora Sun
    Aqua Sun
    Red Sun
    Coral Wave
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    Veteran Smoker Mr. Ganja hyroot's Avatar
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    Pet most indicas like kushes nd blueberry originate from asia and middle east etc....Sativas originate below the equator, africa, south america etc.... We agree on that. In the U.S. we don't get any uvb or IR and not much deep red. In those countries where indicas originate, they do get that part of the spectrum from the sun.

    So I think you got it backwards and fonz gets it right on that point...

    Your girls are looking awesome
    Last edited by hyroot; 07-16-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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    420 TIME Stoner Fonzarelli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinetic View Post
    Until we can see this outmatched growth you guys seem to be proclaiming, you sound like knowledgeable sex ed teachers that are virgins.

    One of the points made is that different strains respond better to different wavelenghts. Great. So if I want to grow my w.w. standard and have a led setup for it I would have to change out my setting if say I wanted to grow Mauii Wauii, And yet again if I wanted to throw some Cali Kush in my setup.

    The great thing about my hid setup is that it just works. I'm chomping at the bit for some solid LED action, especially for flower. I do appreciate the effort.
    This is why I'm growing multiple strains under the lights. Hopefully I can find a spectrum that all strains do well under that will still outshine HID in more than one way. I've seen phenomenal results using only neutral white LEDs mixed with Deep Red 660nm at almost a 50/50 ratio. I may end up going this route when all is said and done. Blue light is only needed in such small quantities for flowering that the white LEDs provide more than enough of it. I may just have to build multiple DIY LED fixtures. LOL

    I've seen some amazing shit happen with the Florasun T5's mixed with 6500K white T5's at a 50/50 ratio so I know it works quite well. I've also done this with a 250w MH mixed with 128w of 630/660nm Red LEDs.

    Just so everyone knows my best growth that I've ever seen so far from any of my tests have been from a combination of 250w MH 6.4k Sunpulse lamp and 4 of the Kessil h150 Red in a 2' x 2' cabinet. I used it through veg and through flower. I've never seen such healthy, lush, non-stretched out happy growth before. And the nice thing was that I didn't have to switch any lamps out at any point in time. I have a photo for comparison if anyone wants to see the difference between that mixture and a stand-alone 400w HPS. The plants are half the height, twice the thickness, and twice the bud size.
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    420 TIME Stoner Fonzarelli's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^The other test I did uses the 250w MH but with added blue light. This is where there was a division between strains. My Sativa's kept flowering very well and finished real nice under the added blue light and my Sour Diesel fell very short. The Sour D did much better under a 3k MH stand alone 1000w MH. Did better under the HPS as well. So it really does boil down to strain at some point towards the last 3 to 4 weeks of flower. I really am just trying to find the middle ground if possible.

  9. #19
    Super Stoner Mr. Ganja polyarcturus's Avatar
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    to be honest even though i am downsizing into one tent i am partly excited since i will be flowering under my t5 now... so i will have some more relevant info to put in on the subject in all honesty i think a 1 to 1 ratio is best with a few specialty bulbs mixed in (420nm coral wave redsun ect) honestly im starting to think the best setup would be almost all florasuns as far as general flowering of strains goes good reads guy i dont have much to add since you all are saying the same things but disagreeing on slight difference but none the less pertinent information. as far as MH goes well ask away i can tell you almost anyhing about them, you said you where using a 3000k mh fonz? what brand you have spectrum chart, to be honest there are few MH bulbs that should really be used for growing since they cover the most par of any bulbs. ratio wise cept LED
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    Super Stoner Mr. Ganja polyarcturus's Avatar
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    personally i see MH as a better bulb than HPS but not by itself for flower, but MH in combo with t5 which i was im having a tough time deciding between MH and HPS, sounds like a combo punch from hell since you could focus on reds more in your flouros and use the 580-630 nm from the MH as the catylst instead of HPS and ovee doinging the amount of red needed. or maybe vice versa more blue in the t5 and hps but i cant see these light doing anything for each other as far as interaction wise other than covering a broader spectrum and the added IR from hps
    BrandX JUST SAY NO TO AUTOFLOWERS & R4! Straw Media Experiment
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