White Rhinos - BRUNG BACK FROM THE DEAD!

ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
WELL HAD 3 PLANTS DYING - REPOTTED THEM AND CHANGED SOIL AND THEY SEEM BACK ON TRACK - EVERY ONE WHO IS COMING HERE FROM MY OLD THREAD THANKS FOR THE HELP!

SEE WHAT YOU THINK AND LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS, IDEAS FOR ME - THE WHITE LADIES ARE BACK ON TRACK - 5 WEEKS OF VEG! kiss-ass:mrgreen::blsmoke::roll::hump:
 

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ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
Do they plants look good? 5 weeks old from seed and just been transplanted - been transplanted twice now so aint grew as fast as they cud have!
Any tips or comments bout them? 5 weeks under a 24/7 150w
flowering in week 6/7 from seed
 

ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
jus checked out a few journals etc! my plants look tiny for there age! dunno where im going wrong!?
 

hangshai

Well-Known Member
jus checked out a few journals etc! my plants look tiny for there age! dunno where im going wrong!?
I dont know if you caught my earlier post, but I had mentioned that clones grow a little faster than plants from seed. That may be what the difference is that you are noticing. Or it could have been that because they were root bound, now they have to bounce back. Growth happens at a constant rate until the plants get stressed. Then they stop growing and start dying until they get comfortable again, but your girls look like they are bouncing back, just keep feeding them and make sure they get enough airflow and lights. Basics.. Air, light, and food...
 

dangledo

Well-Known Member
Yea man, that is exactly what they needed. In general a plant can only get as big as their roots. I always transplant before the leafs meet the sides of their containers. Picture the size of your plant, now picture the plant upside down, below the soil level. That is basically how big your roots are. your plants mirror the size of the roots. Transplanting more that once slows them down quite a bit. You should look into some B1 vitamins to help with transplant shock. Although it might be a little late, but cant hurt.
Clones are way faster, they dont have a seedling stage, 2 weeks or so. they are already in veg growth, thats why some flower at 3 weeks or earlier from clone.

You were asking about water, I always use Reverse osmosis. R.O. water takes all or close to all Total dissolved solid(ppm) and chlorine, although I still let the water stand for a day.
Problem with using RO is that you have to directly give the plants minerals and vitamins that they would otherwise get from tap and mineral water. Tap already has a nutrient reading, so you become limited on how much food you can introduce.
Someone asked about your temps and humidity because they way your plants were wilting. They just needed more root space. You temps and humidty levels are at range, however big jumps in humidity can stress the ladies.
Have you considered any training for the ladies? Some start training in veg, I like to start when they are in flower stretch, much more pliable. if you are just starting and getting the basics down, it might be a lot of info to proccess at once. Ill post some pics of them in training. I try to get an even canopy for light access to all branches. You are back on track. peace
 

dangledo

Well-Known Member
Your plants were stunted from being rootbound, although you have to consider that the White Rhino is a very squat, "bushy" plant. also take into consideration where the soil line is one the plant, looks like they are deep. No problems though.


Here are some pics of training. Training the ladies to grow horizontally not only give the whole plant even light access, it also diverts the hormones and auxins to lower branches as well. As opposed to the "main cola". Creating many even sized colas'. It will take away from the size of main cola but will drastically increase your yield. many different styles of training, LST, scrog, and tying down. I have tried many and I am going back to the tying method, a lot easier.
 

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dangledo

Well-Known Member
Pic 1 and 2, are lights on after 36 hours of dark. went back off for another 24 after 12/12 switch.
Pic 3 is of a plant being tie to the sides- careful not to break, move them around first to get an idea of how much the can bend.
Pic 4,5,6 and 8 , she is being pulled to the side. I then pull all remaining lower branches out from underneath to position to get light. They will soon be tied down when they get bigger.
Pic 7, dual spectrum really helps out with stretch phase. Chrome dome hps, and hortilux blue, mh. Keeps them compact.
Notice all of the potential bud sites, they will increase through out stretch.
 

ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
Ok loving the posts - today i fed them like 2 pints each of 3/4 strength nutes (iguana juice grow) but the thing is even after all of this there was no run through at the drainage holes!
When watering should i water every time in there new 5 gallon pots till there is run through? I just didnt wanna over water them with them just being transplanted yesterday - ive kept the door open and had the fan on alot more for the venting/fresh air aspect
just wondering bout the watering with nutes and in general - always water till run through no matter how much that may be?
 

ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
Training looks a little complex for first grow? Or it seems it - jeez, u really are a pro aint u - no wonder ur grows look so good!
 

ENGLAND123

Well-Known Member
Ok loving the posts - today i fed them like 2 pints each of 3/4 strength nutes (iguana juice grow) but the thing is even after all of this there was no run through at the drainage holes!
When watering should i water every time in there new 5 gallon pots till there is run through? I just didnt wanna over water them with them just being transplanted yesterday - ive kept the door open and had the fan on alot more for the venting/fresh air aspect
just wondering bout the watering with nutes and in general - always water till run through no matter how much that may be?

__________________????????/ any ideas any 1?

THEY SEEM TO HAVE HAD THE NUTES WITH EASE BTW!
 

dangledo

Well-Known Member
You should always see some water come out of the drain holes. To get an idea of how much water you need you should see about 20% run off. I use a full gallon, 4 liters for my large containers. I could see your soil easily holding 3 liters with plenty of run off. After getting an idea of how much they need you can then adjust. Run off is a sign that you have fully watered all of the soil, and avoiding and dry spots. With new soil or soil less mixes I generally "pre wet" the media. Sometimes it seems that new media wont fully absorb until after a few waterings. To avoid water running down the outsides of the soil inside the container I water from the inside out, starting at base of plant and slowly move to the ouside.
Say you use 2 to 3 liters a watering. Use only 1 to 1.5 liters at first, let the soil soak then go back and give her the rest of the water. This helps avoiding dry spots and stops the water from just running down the cracks in the dry soil.
Letting the soil dry out can be a good thing. It makes the roots travel further to find more water. Just have to read the plants, take a picture the day of watering, then day after and so on. Go back and take a look at the pictures to see the difference in what the plant has done. It can really help you pinpoint when you need to water next.

Hey man appreciate the compliments. Always take notes of what works and doesnt. Youll be a pro before you know it. Dont let anything seem to complicated, marijuana is one of the easiest plants I have ever grown.
 
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