i thought i had it right it just helps t hear it from someone els thankyou

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supercalavagalisticexpialadankbitch... my styles tight like OJ's glove

Thanks for your advice +Rep'd you.

Thats the same fan I have ordered the 92mm I have ordered 3 but am put off by doing the wiring myself..

Yeah I made up the service, because I'm not going to give identifiable specifics when talking about an illegal grow space, on the Internet.

Let's see if I can phrase the question in a more strait forward way. Can you add circuits to a service, as long as there are open punch-outs on the breaker box, and the total amps doesn't exceed the rated service on the box? If you have a 200 amp service can you use all 200 safely?

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"If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." - Thomas Jefferson my grow

ok ill assume a couple of things here (and i mean assume. there are lots of variables to consider)
1. you have a 200amp service that has available slots in the panel, residential setting
2. because you have a 200a panel in a residential setting with available slots either:
(a) you have a small house
(b) your not pulling the full load
(c) house is brand new and the slots are code required for future expansion

breaker sizes do not typically reflect the amount of power that is actually being used.
they are sized according to the wire that is connected to them, not the load. you can have 42 20amp breakers in a panel with a 200 amp main breaker..... (thats 840 amps)

what YOU need to know however is how much power your using right now. because what you dont want to happen is to exceed the 200a. then your main breaker trips and thats a pain in the ass!

just from what youve told me however i would say your good to go in your particular panel. i say this because in my experience, you could probably run every appliance in your house, turn on every light, anything that uses power, and you probably going to be pulling no more than 125amps...thats just my experience speaking tho.

if you have doubts tho always consult a pro in person

a nasty trick to pull to achieve this is to look in the phonebook and find an electrical contractor that does free estimates. when he shows up ask him to quote you a price on what you need, and have him explain the work that is needed to be done

then just never have them start the job

nice setup!
couple of things i need to point out to you:
i can tell by the voltage your not in north america
over here in the usa we run on 230/125vac @ 60hz

sounds to me like your on a 50hz system.

this is outside my area of exptertise, however i will do my best to give you accurate answers
to your questions:
question 1
i love contactors and relays, but the electrically held ones make a 'buzzing' noise that will drive you insane. trust me they are noisy. if you get one i would highly reccomend one that is MECHANICALLY HELD or LATCHING, not electrically held.
also wiring up a contactor requires a control circuit to turn it on and off. this can be tricky for a novice; and also, it is just a remote controlled switch. you gain no power savings from using one, you just get the ability to control alot of devices at once. however in your case where you have so much equipment id reccomend it to avoid having splitters(3-4way adapters) installed. ge manufactures some excellent small lighting contactors. make sure any speed controls are wired after the contactor, not before it. (wire coming off of load side of contactor feeds speed controller, which then feeds device)

question 2-
NO. dimmer switches are for incadescent lights ONLY, they work by limiting the power to the lamps to make them 'dim'. using a dimmer on anything else than lights will cause your device to burn up from under voltage, especially if it is a motor of any kind. never attempt this it will only lead to failure!

what you need to control your pc fans is a 12v SPEED CONTROLLER SWITCH. if you cant find one at a electronics shop or website, you can use a model train speed controller available at just about any hobby shop for cheap. just make sure it is for 12v and your good to go. i would highly reccomend going with the model train setup as most controllers have there own fused power supply incorporated into it, which means you can cancel or return the power supply you already have and eleminate an extra component! (k.i.s.s. rule)

part b-
on the carbon filter fan what you will need is a 240v MOTOR SPEED CONTROLLER. this is important. again, it will burn if you try to use a dimmer to control it!

question 3-
YES. if it is a single outlet your probably good for up to 32amps (or 35a, im not sure, again a 50hz system is not my forte) i wouldnt be scared to add 2 or 3 more cfls to that plug if you felt you needed them!

question 4-
theres no such thing as too much protection. however instead of a 'trip switch' i would instal GFCI outlets to replace the existing plugs (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptors). these will help protect your equipment if something bad happens by instantanously tripping the instant a fault conditon occurs. like a really fast fuse you can reset. these are most commonly used in wet areas like bathrooms and kitchens. (the plugs with the 2 buttons on them) you will be able to sleep safe knowing you have them installed

hope i helped you out, and good luck with the grow

*edit-
i notice your missing a timer there id get one! tork makes the best electromechanical timers in my opinion.. http://www.tork.com

would it be possible to run 240 wire from the 240 dryer outlet in my garage up to the 2nd story of my house and into the grow room?

probably not, unless you plan on abandoning the dryer plug altogether. if not, your begging for problems.... like fire dept kind of problems

yeah i def want to avoid those kind of problems. im not using the plug at all. so is it a possible option? i have 4000k watts in my flower room and im trying to figure out how exactly im going to safely run that. any suggestions?

if your going to abandon the dryer receptacle then, yes, you can do this. just make sure you use a good #10awg cable for the job. dont use any wire smaller than #10, theres a chance it can heat up if you go crazy and add more lights.

typically a dryer is a 30 amp circuit, which gives you roughly 5280w @ 220vac to play with for continuous duty power. (on longer than 8 hours)
remember watts= volts x amps
to achieve safe continuous duty amperage you need to rate your circuits @ 80% of the breaker rating, which for a 30amp breaker @ 220v is 5280w
(30a x 220v= 6600w
6600w x 80% = 5280w) always use wattage to rate your circuits, never amps. amps are used to determine wire size and breaker size and thats about it*
this formula was invented by a guy named Ohm... the 80% rating was invented by a guy named Westinghouse...dont try to tamper with it stay within 80% and you cant go wrong

*amps are a unit of measurement that describes the amount of electrons flowing in a circuit, not the actual power consumption. power consumption is always expressed as either watts or v.a (volt-amps)