so what your saying is... when im using just straight up water to water my plants, since i feed every other watering, use ph down to hit 6.2-6.6 and not just say fuck it if it read 7-7.5? bad bad bad?

Al look im not trying to fight with you just thinking maybe im wrong but i am openm inded....how do you maintain a succesfull grow with your ph in the 8's?

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SmokeSumthinBitch
BUBBLEHEADS
Roseman and Purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponics
CURRENT:
DNA-Lemon Skunk

Are you growing hydro? or some hybrid/hydro/soil setup?

My nutes are in my reservoir and nuke my girls EVERY time I water. How do you feed "every other watering" with a "hydroponic" system?

and yes. If you have a "hydroponic" system then your "target" pH is 5.8. Anything over 6.2 (I think) and your locking out nutes.

Look back a few pages in this thread, Al has posted the ph/nutrient scale. It's in vivid color!!! But it's all here in Black and White!!!

I gotta go check my pH.

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Sensi-Star!!!

Hey chumlie ... im pretty sure al wont give up on ya... just try to follow instructions to the letter.... dont wonder off.... stick to the plan... and if you do... welllll .....you know what then... buds a bunches....

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I grow with chemicals ,when i started growing there was no dirt........

Patience is a topic I haven't touched on recently. New growers are expectant and anxious to do the right thing and you can't fault them for having enthusiasm. However, it's that enthusiasm which more often than not leads to disaster. Noobs kill with kindness, overwatering and overfertilising with astounding regularity.

This process does take time! It's a minimum of 14 weeks (yes, 3.5 mos) from beans to buds. We shortcut that by several weeks in SoG, where mother plants supply a constant flow of clones to be flowered.

New growers should work on spending as little time as possible on the plants. Sit in the grow room & fawn over your work if you must, but resist the urge to fiddle and change things.

Yeah, that's what I kinda thought was happening. It's gotta go somewhere and under the house is a great place. Cuts noise and reduces any heat signature, while the latter isn't really too much of a worry.

That's not too bad. Will last you a while.

good, good, good

yep, that's what we want! When your tanks remain clear & pH steady, you're on top of it.

Yep, you may have to do a little work to mechanically remove what the chemicals are having a hard time getting to.

That's the whole crate of bananas.

Yes, you have to have accurate metering. Otherwise, you're like an electrician without a voltmeter.

The scale doesn't matter, my TDS Truncheon is calibrated in EC & ppm. ppm is the preferred scale in the US and due to the number of US users on cannabis boards, is a widely used figure in cannabis discussion forums.

You can't sex the plant until it is showing preflowers. If you chuck it in to flower before you know the sex, you have a 50% chance of wasting some of your flowering area space on males.

Even if you do get some females out of the plants that you flowered before they were showing preflowers, cuttings taken from plants in flower are notoriously slow to set root. A plant which has been in flower is thus not useful for cuttings, so those prematurely flowered plants won't be good mums. If you do manage to get a cutting from a flowering plant to set root, that clone will itself be in flower. If you want to use it as a mother plant, it will have to be re-vegged. It can take 6-8 weeks to return a plant in flower to full veg state growth. In the meantime, it will throw out some weird, mixed habit growth, with long 1-bladed fan leaves and slow vertical growth.

The right way to do it is to sprout your beans, grow them to sexual maturity (showing preflowers), take cuttings, root them, flower those cuts to determine sex of the donor plants, then proceed to take batches of cutting off the now known females which have remained under veg lighting.

No opinion. I use Canna 2-part nutes because they're easy & reliable. No 3-part confusions going on in this op.

It's madness. The readership stats on this thread are going a bit mad, up to 427/day, climbing every day. It is starting to get a little out of control... I'm spending too much time at the PC.

You'd see a lot of nute deficiencies as almost all nutes would be locked out.



5.8 is the place to be.

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Get a harvest every 2 weeks - A batch of clones in rockwool - Al B. Gone

thanks again

Albf im trying to do sog as well and you said cut everything on the bottem 1/3 AND all branches that are longer then a couple inches?
But Almost ALL my branches are longer then a couple inches, if i cut them all off i will just have the main stem. Is that right?

Ill tell you what, this is the first thread I check when I get on the forums. I learned method from everywhere else, I learned details from you.

THanks for the reply Al.

My Veg room where all seedlings are being raised to be parents/mums
1kw MH 2-2.5ft from seedlings (8 days of veg so far)
1200ppm Ionic Nutes, 5.8ph
74-78 f. lights on-has hit 80 twice
69-72 f. lights off-has hit 67 once
50-55% RH (at times as low as 45 and high of 60)

I don't think I have anything "going on" in the veg room other than the original stretch a week ago immediately following germination.

Everything is growing well-just a few of the severe cases from my original query are waiting for the stem to thicken up and better support the vegetation. They are healthy and thickening steadily so they should recover. Height restrictions are not an issue for me so taller mums do not pose a problem for the space.

I can clone for sex by week 4 or 5 instead of waiting for preflowers right?
Or whenever the plant has suitable branches?

Again thanks for helping to fill in the blanks.

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"You know you can re-use your Hydroton? Nobody here thinks you are."-Clerk 2008
http://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-...w-journal.html
http://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-de...om-set-up.html

hey corral thx for the advice, im using ocean forrest fox farm soil 3.5 gallon pots since clone