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Maintaining a highly aerated root zone at optimum temperature is key to achieving high yields and problem-free grows. This FAQ focuses on indoor hydroponic reservoir cooling options.
Why do I need cool root temperatures? High root zone temperatures often plague indoor growers running water culture (aero/bubbler/dwc/hydro) systems. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting, which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases dissolved oxygen (DO) levels. Rapid plant growth, combined with low DO levels, can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium. The key to maximum growth is to keep the air temperature at 75-80F, but the root zone at 68F or less. Note: the reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone - irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots. Optimum root growth occurs at 70-75F; however, destructive root diseases also grow and reproduce rapidly at these root temperatures. Maintaining nutrient temperatures at or under 68F maximizes root growth and DO, and inhibits pythium. Reservoir cooling options: Warm summer temps often require aggressive cooling measures. Bubblers and dwc are difficult systems to temperature regulate due to their (usually) small volumes and lack of external reservoir. Note: spray / drip / mist / circulate nutrients on a frequent basis to equalize reservoir and root zone temperatures. Intermittent spraying may require a slightly lower tank temp, to compensate for system heating occurring during "off" spray cycle. (ie. Keep tank temp around 64F for intermittent spray cycles, 68F for continuous spraying). Note: submersible pumps add heat. Use an external/inline pump to minimize heat transfer. High quality digital thermometers are recommended.
A coil of stainless steel is put into the reservoir, cold tap water is trickled through the coil and the overflow runs down the drain. A circulation pump in thte rez makes the cooling more efficient. Adjust tap flow as necessary (Water use can reasonable). No power, unlimited cooling, quiet. Making your own cooling coil: Scrap yards and appliance repair shops are full of A/C and fridge coils: 4-20 loops (more surface area is better), with male garden hose connectors welded to each end (Don't use copper or nickel coils). Available in Hydro stores (around $100 cdn). Note: Cooling coils may not be useful for those on metered water. DIY heat exchangers: try hot tub suppliers, home brew stores. |
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#2
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awesome thread! i have a built in resevoir under my table. what is the best way to chill the res? should i just put frozen water bottles on the table and let the bottles cool the water while having a fan blow on top of the table? my current water temp is 77 degrees and i am a little worried. will this shock the roots? thanks!
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Everything I say on this forum is truth. All pics I post are mine and not from the internet. |
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#3
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How cool is too cool???
Say... water at 58F to 62F... root zone at 66F to 68F.... plants at 70F to 72F... Is it just slowing growth? or are there other detriments? Thanks! |
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#4
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Good aquarium chillers are $400+ ... there is a better solution.
Craigslist I see them for under $30 all the time. Rip it apart, and make use of the coils =) |
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#8
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What about converting a PC water cooling kit? I have already used PC fans that I pulled off these mini radiators that the water passes through and get cooled by the radiator and the fan attached to the radiator. Its all a 12 volt DC system and very easy to convert both the fan and water pump which could be mounted right on the side of the outside of the tank....a couple of 12v DC adapters for power to fan and pump and your all set.
It should circulated the water from inside the tank through the cooling resevoir and bump back in cold water into the tank. Just thinking aloud here...I just remember how easy it was to convert a 4 1/2 inch PC cooling fan mounted on the back of a PC cooling radiator for the PC cooling unit and splicing to power to 12v DC adapter I had layng around and then using that for a exhust fan. All else needed was a 10 foot piece of dryer hose to make the exhaust vent. Last edited by Bullethead21; 11-08-2008 at 06:03 PM.. |
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#9
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Well so far the plans are looking good. One can actually do this without drilling any holes in the tank which is no big deal for the tubing for the inlet side. The outlet side after water has been run through cooling radiator can also be layed over top with the power power to the submeged pump or you could drill another small hole at the top of the tank somewhere for your return water thats nice and chilly......
Only obstacle I ran into so far is matching up the tubing and fitting size. Seems I got 2 or 3 different type PC water cooling kits around and they all dont use the same size tubing. SO once I get some more cheap tubing I should be all set. This is all gonna be mounted externally either directly mounted on the outside of the tank, or a nearby shelf will work nicely also. Ill ppost some pics after I get the tubing I need. BTW- just in case any are interested, Im using parts prom a thermaltech and Bigwater PC water cooling kits. The fan on the radiator is 4.5 inch fan size...standard 12v DC.....I can give you more specs if you have specific questions. |
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#10
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Could someone explain in detail how you would go about running a fan to blow air across the water thats inside the tank? In one of these post that was suggested as a way to keep res temps down...just wondering exactly how that would work....
Thank You! |
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